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THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 


PRESENTED  BY 

PROF.CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 

MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


Ill 


7?^ 


NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 


Being  a  history  of  the  cruise  of  the  U.  S.  S.  California 

from  November  1 5,  1 91 1  to  August  1 5,  1 912,  to 
Hawaiian  Islands,  Philipine  Islands,  China  and  Japan 

CHAPTER  I. 

THE  HAWAIIAN  ISI^ANDS 

On  the  night  of  November  14,  1911,  the  United  States 
Pacific  Fleet — consisting  then  of  two  divisions,  the  California 
(Fleet  and  First  Division  Flagship)  with  the  South  Dakota  and 
Maryland  forming  the  First  Division,  and  the  West  Virginia 
(Second  Division  Flagship)  and  Colorado  Composing  the  Second 
Division, — completed  Autum  Target  Practice,  1911.  On  the 
morning  of  the  15th  the  Fleet  assembled  in  the  harbor  of  San 
Diego,  Cal.,  everyone  expecting  that  we  would  there  complete 
preparations  for  the  voyage  to  Honolulu  for  which  orders  had 
been  issued  from  time  to  time  and  which  though  delayed  by  un- 
foreseen occurrences  was  to  be  made  after  the  completionof  this 
target  practice.  Somewhat  unexpectedly  Rear  Admiral  Chaun- 
cey  Thomas,  U.  S.  N.,  Commander-in-Chief,  United  States 
Pacitia  Fleet,  received  orders,  changing  and  modifying  prev- 
ious ones,  with  the  result  that  at  5:30  p.  m.  on  this  day  the 
first  division  left  for  San  Francisco,  the  second  division  re- 
maining long  enough  to  take  on  coal  and  police  up  after  target 
practice. 

The  first  division  went  immediately  to  Tiburon,  arriving 
on  the  17th,  filled  up  with  coal  and  then  dropped  down  oif  San 
Francisco  where  the3^  at  once  commenced  to  hustle  on  stores  and 
equipment  of  all  kinds  necessary  for  a  possible  extended  absence 
from  a  base  of  supplies. 


M.'ti  dsnd 


NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 


Meanwhile,  all  men  whose  time  expired  prior  to  April 
1st,  1912,  were  transferred  from  the  Fleet  and  their  places  filled 
with  men  from  the  Independence,  Pensacola  and  Oregon. 

The  second  division  got  away  from  San  Diego  on  the 
17th,  arriving  at  San  Francisco  on  the  morning  of  the  19th,  and 
also  jumped  into  the  game  to  grab  what  they  needed  to  com- 
plete their  outfits. 

Amidst  all  the  rush  of  work,  time  was  found  for  liberty 
so  that  all  who  wished  to  say  goodbye  to  friends  or  relatives 
had  the  opportunity  to  do  so. 

At  5  o'clock  on  the  afternoon  of  November  21st,  the  five 
swift  cruisers  swung  into  line  and  moved  quietly  down  the  bay 
in  column  natural  order — distance  500  yards,  out  through  the 
Golden  Gate  and  onward  over  the  rolling  blue  water — heads 
pointed  toward  the  setting  sun. 

With  everything  shipshape  above  and  below  w^e  bucked  a 
moderate  sea  at  10  knots,  steaming  easily  along  at  that  speed 
until  the  recruits  might  have  a  chance  to  discover  the  first  prin- 
ciples of  what  constitutes  perfectly  good  sea-legs  and  to  learn 
to  accomodate  their  delicate  digestive  apparatus  to  the  heave 
and  surge  of  the  briny  deep. 

Many  of  those  who  had  been  in  the  service  for  periods 
of  but  a  few  days  or  weeks  quickly  discovered  the  effect  a  ship 
rolling  four  ways  at  once  has  on  land  nerves.,  but  they  had  no 
particular  reason  to  feel  ashamed  as  the  heavy  ground  swell 
aided  by  the  stiff  breeze  blowing  made  some  of  the  plankowners 
who  had  been  snatched  away  from  their  joyous  guardo  exist- 
ence sit  up  and  take  notice.  » 

Station  billets  had  been  issued  to  the  newcomers  as  soon 
as  they  came  on  board  so  they  soon  found  themselves  and 
settled  down  to  make  a  home  of  the  ship.  Routine  drills,  plen- 
ty of  eats,  sleeps  and  ocean  ozone,  kept  things  from  becoming 
too  monotonous.  At  each  meal,  and  when  groups  gathered  to- 
gether in  their  part  of  the  ship  for  a  talkfest,  speculation  was 
rife  as  to  where  we  were  going  and  why.  Extra  editions  of  the 
"Scuttle  Butt  News'.'  were  published  at  frequent  intervals,  and 
each  number  contained  the  latest  dope  as  to  our    future   move- 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISI^ANDS 


ments.  As  every  possible  move  was  anticipated  it  only  re- 
mained to  pick  the  right  one  for  somebody  was  surely  right,  but 
who,  nobody  knew. 

Fleet  maneuvers  were  carried  out  from  day  to  day,  and 
on  the  morning  of  the  24th,  while  the  fleet  was  steaming  in 
two  columns,  the  captain  of  the  steamship  Wilhelmina  request- 
ed permission  by  wireless  to  pass  through  the  fleet  in  order  that 
the  officers  and  men  might  have  a  chance  to  catch  a  glimpse  of 
relatives  and  friends  on  board  who  were  on  their  way  to  Hono- 
lulu. Permission  was  granted  and  as  she  slowly  steamed  down 
the  line  every  pair  of  field  glasses  in  the  fleet  and  on  the  Wil- 
helmina were  put  in  active  commission. 

At 4:30  p.  m.,  November  28th,  the  first  division  arrived 
and  docked  at  Honolulu.  The  second  division  did  not  arrive 
until  9  a.  m.  the  following  day. 

Thanksgiving  day  was  welcome,  as  always.  Liberty,  a 
good  dinner,  and  sports  on  shore  furnished  diversion  and  amuse- 
ment. The  Colly  beat  the  Cally  7-2  in  their  first  mixup  on  the 
diamond  for  the  edification  of  the  Honolulu  fans,  and  that  start- 
ed the  ball  rolling — a  number  of  lively  games  being  pulled  off 
eveiy  day  or  two  between  the  ships  and  local  teams  during  the 
remainder  of  our  stay  in  this  port. 

On  December  2d  the  first  Division  encircled  the  island 
of  Oahu  (on  which  Honolulu  is  located,)  anchoring  at  night  off 
Waialua  Bay.  These  were  the  first  warships  to  anchor  there 
since,  over  one  hundred  years  ago,  a  Russian  warship  sailed  in- 
to the  harbor,  was  blown  ashore  and  wrecked. 

On  the  evening  of  December  1st,  the  marines  stationed 
at  Honolulu  held  their  annual  dance  on  the  roof  garden  of  the 
Alexander  Young  hotel.  All  the  officers  and  men  of  the  fleet 
were  invited  to  attend,  and  we  were  there  strong.  The  program 
included  20  dances,  each  dedicated  to  something  connected  with 
the  service.  Music  was  furnished  by  two  classy  Hawaiian  or- 
chestras, delicious  refreshments  were  served,  and  lovely  girls 
were  there  in  bunches — nobody  that  could  dance  lacked 
partners.  This  was  a  joyous  and  long-to-be-remembered  oc 
casion,  and  the  precursor  of  many  more  to    come,    the    opening 


8 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

function  of  a  whirl  of   social    gaiety    which   lasted    during  our 
whole  stay. 

In  the  midst  of  this  whirl,  Admiral  Thomas  made  ar- 
rangements for  each  of  the  cruisers  to  visit  Hilo,  Island  of  Ha- 
waii, in  order  that  the  officers  and  men  might  have  an  oppor- 
tunity to  visit  the  greatest  wonder  in  the  world,  of  its  kind,  the 
burning  pit  Halemaumau  (House  of  Everlasting  Fire,)  in  the 
crater  of  Kilauea — one  of  the  numerous  craters  on  the  sides  of 
the  great  volcano,  Mauna  Loa.  The  Maryland  was  the  first  to 
go,  leaving  on  the  5th;  then  followed  the 

Colorado  on  December  9th, 

South  Dakota  on  Dec.   12th, 

California  on  Dec.  15th, 

West  Virginia  on  Dec.  18th. 
The  California  distinguished  herself  on  Thursday,  De- 
cember 14th,  1911,  by  making  a  short  but  memorable  cruise, 
from  Honolulu  to  Pearl  Harbor,  and  being  the  first  warship  of 
large  tonnage  to  poke  her  nose  into  the  newly  finished  channel. 
Admiral  Thomas,  unofficially  demonstrated  to  the  world  on 
this  occasion  that  the  passage  of  the  channel  from  the  sea  to 
the  inner  harbor  was  already  possible,  although  the  finishing 
touches  had  not  all  yet  been  given  to  the  channel,  and  at  the 
same  time  his  guests,  together  with  himself  had  the  honor  of 
being  the  first  ones  to  so  pass  through  the  channel. 

The  actual  entrance  to  the  channel  was  barred  by  a 
streamer  of  red,  white  and  blue  ribbon  supported  between  two 
small  boats,  which  was  carried  away  by  the  prow  of  the  Cali- 
fornia at  11:03  a.  m.  This  fact  was  at  once  wired  to  Honolulu 
and  an  impromptu  celebration  of  the  event  took  place  there. 

The  inter-island  steamers,  Helena  and  Claudine  followed 
the  California,  other  smaller  boats  and  launches  trailing  along 
behind  them,  and  all,  being  gaily  decorated  with  flags  and  bunt- 
ing, formed  a  pleasing  water  pageant.  The  gay  dresses,  leis 
and  flowers,  worn  by  the  guests  on  the  Flagship  and  the  pas- 
sengers on  the  boats,  added  brilliant  touches  of  color  to  the 
boats  placidly  gliding  along  over  the  sparkling  waters  be- 
neath a  cloudless  sky. 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 


Yellow  ribbons  bearing  the  inscription  in  black: 

"U.  S.  S.   CAUFORNIA 

First  Warship  to  Enter 

Pearl  Harbor 

December  14,  1911 

Presented  by  Honolulu  Chamber  of  Commerce."  were 
worn  by  the  guests  of  the  occassion,  tied  around  sleeves,  about 
hats  or  perhaps  pinned  to  the.hair  or  to  the  bosom  of  the  dress 
of  the  ladies. 

During  the  passage  of  the  channel  the  crowds  ashore  and 
afloat  cheered  continually  and  every  noise  machine  for  miles 
around  was  turned  loose. 

The  first  dredge  passed  was  lavishly  decorated  with  gay 
bunting  and  bore  conspicuously  on  her  side,  in  large  letters, 
the  name  of  the  Flagship.  When  she  was  directly  off  our  beam 
her  crew  removed  their  hats,  gave  us  three  rousing  cheers  and 
fired  a  salute  from  a  tiny  cannon  mounted  on  the  dredge's  deck. 

Further  in  on  a  small  jetty  near  the  channel  a  group  of 
young  Hawaiians,  many  standing  waist  deep  in  the  water, 
waved  their  hands  and  shouted  in  many  languages,  at  the  top  of 
their  voices — all  excited  about  what  they  were  not  quite  sure — 
only  that  it  was  something  that  required  unlimited  vociferation. 

Passing  the  Marine  camp  the  customary  salute  of  13  guns 
was  rendered  the  flag  and  returned  by  the  flagship  after  coming 
to  anchor. 

After  a  light  luncheon  the  guests  left  the  California  in  the 
tug  Navajo,  landed  and  explored  the  site  of  the  future  naval  base. 
While  the  guests  were  ashore  the  California  fired  a  17  gun  salute 
in  honor  of  the  principal  guest  the  Governor  of  Hawaii,  which  sa- 
lute was  answered  by  the  Marine  camp. 

On  December  15th,  the  California  left  for  her  trip  to  the 
crater  of  Kilauea,  arriving  off  Hilo  on  the  morning  of  the  16th, 
and  at  noon  the  first  part}^  left  for  the  wonderful  sight.  The 
uniform  was  blues  with  leggins  and  heavy  shoes.  Landing  at 
the  wharf  at  Waiakea,  a  suburb  of  Hilo,  we  boarded  a  special 
train  which  ran  through  to  Glenwood,  a  distance  of  22  miles, 
without  a  stop.     At  once  we  proceeded  by  auto  over  the  beautiful 


10 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

9  mile  stretch  of  splendid  macadam  to  the  Volcano  House,  and 
from  there  some  walked ,  some  rode  horseback  or  autoed  to  the 
brink  of  Halemaumau.  We  arrived  at  the  burning  pit  at  about  3 
o'clock.  While  many  stayed  by  the  pit,  content  to  witness  its 
wonderful  changes  in  aspect  and  coloring  as  daylight  disap- 
peared and  darkness  came  on,  some  who  wished  to  see  as  much 
as  possible  in  the  limited  time  at  their  disposal,  wandered  off  to 
the  side  shows — the  extinct  craters,  tree  moulds,  sulphur  beds, 
steam  and  heat  crevices,  etc. ,  to  be  seen  for  miles  around.  Those 
who  remained  to  watch  the  redhot  lava  convulsively  squirming 
about  in  the  burning  pit  freely  admitted  it  to  be  the  greatest 
sight  they  had  ever  seen  in  all  their  sailorizing.  What  we  saw 
was  a  hole  in  the  ground,  or  rather  lava,  irregularly  circular  in 
formation  about  1000  or  800  feet  in  diameter,  filled  with  a  liquid 
heaving  restless  mass  of  fiery  lava  to  within  75  or  80  feet  of  the 
top,  and  at  the  time  we  saw  it,  approximately  500  feet  in  depth. 
Some  bunch  of  hot  stuff. 

We  kept  no  track  of  time  as  we  watched  the  capers  of 
Miss  Pele  (the  goddess  j-upposed  to  inhabit  the  fires  of  the  pit)  we 
were  so  interested  in  the  utterly  regardless  and  careless  way  she 
tossed  her  rosy  skirts  around. 

This  awsome  sight  aroused  in  the  minds  of  the  onlookers 
serious  thoughts  as  they  mentally  reviewed  their  past  misdeeds 
and  looked  forward  to  spending  an  eternity  in  some  such  situation 
as  the  one  at  which  they  were  gazing.  Many  resolved  to  "Nix 
on  the  rough  stuff  hereafter,"  and  the  longer  they  looked 
the  more  fixed  became  their  determination.  The  most  wonder- 
ful aspect  of  the  glowing  pit  is  presented  as  it  changes  its  hues 
from  the  pale  ones  of  daylight  to  the  rosy  ones  seen  as  darkness 
falls,  when  it  really  appears  as  the  inferno  which  you  of  my  read- 
ers who  have  not  yet  seen  it  will  imagine  it  to  be.  Take  it  all 
around,  the  crater  of  a  real  live  busy  volcano  is  one  sight  that 
must  be  seen  to  be  fully  appreciated,  and  if  we  could  impress 
those  who  have  not  seen  it  with  the  fact  that  it  is  a  sight  that 
every  ablebodied  person  in  the  world  should  see,  the  brink  of  the 
crater  would  be  constantly  crowded.  Many  of  the  men  in  the 
parties  that  visited  the  crater  from  the  ships  went  to  the   edge  of 


At  the  Brink  of  the  Crater 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 13 

the  pit  and  yanked  out  chunks  of  the  melted  lava  in  which  they 
placed  coins  and  allowed  the  pieces  to  cool.  These  made 
the  best  souvenirs,  and  next  to  them,  the  post  cards  toasted, 
or  scorched  in  the  heat  crevices  are  most  cherished.  It  would 
be  pleasant  to  stay  for  several  weeks  in  this  vicinity,  as  there  is 
enough  of  interest  to  occupy  one's  attention  indefinately,  and 
the  hotel  accomodations  and  climate  are  excellent.* 

During  our  short  stay,  the  people  of  Hilo  did  all  that  was 
possible  for  our  entertainment  and  amusement,  and  we  shall  al- 
ways retain  pleasant  recollections  of  them  and  their  courteous 
treatment.  The  railroad  management,  automobile  company, 
and  the  proprietor  of  the  Volcano  House,  got  together  and 
made  special  rates  of  a  very  modest  sum  which  included  all  the 
necessary  expenses  of  the  trip. 

On  the  morning  of  the  19th  we  left  for  Honolulu,  arriv- 
ing on  the  20th,  in  time  to  get  in  the  whirl  again  and  join  with 
the  townies  in  the  preparations  for  celebrating  the  holidays.  It 
is  the  custom  in  Honolulu  to  get  together  and  hold  an  outdoor 
fiesta  at  this  time  of  the  year,  so  that  on  Christmas  Eve,  every- 
body that  could  walk  paraded  the  brightly  illuminated  down- 
town streets  which  assumed  the  appearance  of  an  embryo  fairy- 
land. Each  lad  had  a  lassie  on  his  arm — some  had  one  on  each 
arm  and  others  tagging  behind.  Unlimited  supplies  of  confetti, 
noise  machines,  and  flowers  were  much  in  evidence — principally 
in  your  face  or  down  the  back  of  your  neck.  The  town  boys 
had  to  stand  aside  that  night,  unless  they  masqueraded  in  sail- 
or uniform,  because  we  certainly  were  the  fashion  on  that  occasion 
at  least.  What  fortunes  the  candy  and  ice  cream  men  made  that 
night!  The  goodtime  continued  until  well  after  midnight, 
when  street  cars  and  autos  worked  overtime  to  get  the  dispers- 
ing crowds  home — not  before,  however,  many  of  us  had  accept- 
ed the  cordial  invitation  extended  to  dine  in  the  bosom  of  the 
family  of  some  old,  or  newly  made,  friend. 

Christmas  morning  dawned  bright  and  clear  and,  before 
it  was  over,  we  realized  that  it  was  our  busy  day.     Sports  start- 

*An  illustrated,  detailed  description  of  these  trips,  containingr  some  very  striking  photo- 
graphs, may  be  obtained,  postage  paid,  for  .50c  a  copy  from:  W.  E.  Richmond,  Ch. 
Yeo..  U.  S.  Navy,  U.  S.  S.  CAI,IFORNIA,  Pacific  Station,  via  San  Francisco,  Cal 


14 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

ed  after  breakfast  and  lasted  all  day,  only  interrupted  by  the 
usual  corking  good  dinner.  Also  in  the  morning  some  of  us 
had  the  pleasure  of  witnessing  the  distribution  by  the  "Kamaa- 
inas"  to  the  "Malihinis"  of  presents  from  the  Malihini  Christ- 
mas tree.  ("Malihini,' — pronounced  mollyheenie,  is  Hawaiian 
for  stranger  or  newcomer — used  mostly  in  the  latter  sense,  and 
"Kamaaina— commaeena,  means  old  resident  or  oldtimer).  This 
tree,  which  was  placed  right  out  in  the  open,  was  an  enormous 
specimen  of  its  kind,  and  loaded  wMth  gifts  for  the  little  ones. 
The  hospitality  and  good  will  of  the  Hawaiians  (meaning  by 
"Hawaiians"  everybody  of  all  races  that  lives  in  the  islands) 
is  thus  displayed  toward  the  children  of  the  Malihinis  who  have 
moved  in  since  the  preceding  Christmas.  Around  this  tree 
the  writer  saw  children  of  native,  Japanese,  Chinese,  Cey- 
lonese,  Korean,  Filipino,  Hindu,  Italian,  Portuguese,  Spanish, 
Swedish,  German,  English  and  American,  origin — as  well  as 
mixtures  of  any  or  all — and  doubtless  there  were  other  nation- 
alities present.  And  such  happy  little  tots  they  were  as  each 
was  handed  a  bunch  of  nuts,  a  toy  horn,  and  some  useful  little  ar- 
ticle. Never  before  have  we  seen  such  multi-colored  happiness, 
nor  happiness  expressed  in  so  many  different  ways.  Some  were 
staid  and  sober — like  little  old  men  and  women — in  their  demean- 
or, yet  happiness  shone  from  their  eyes;  others  ran  about  in  vol- 
uble excitement  and  plainly  expressed  their  delight  by  word  and 
action;  and  still  others  stood  timidly,  with  finger  on  lips  in  char- 
acteristic childish  pose,  shyly  holding  their  precious  gifts  close 
up  to  their  bodies,  It  was  great — almost  as  good  as  being  a  kid 
again  yourself .  Understand,  this  was  not  a  "charitable"  tree, 
but  an  expression  of  goodwill  from  the  oldtimers  to  the  newcom- 
ers— one  of  the  little  things  that  justly  entitles  the  oldtimers  to 
call  their  little  burg  the  "Paradise  of  the  Pacific. ' ' 

The  trucks  and  yardarms  of  the  ship  were  tipped  with  the 
customary  bit  of  evergreen,  and  the  messes  from  the  Admiral's 
down  were  decorated  with  wreaths,  palms  and  evergreens  inter- 
spersed with  bunting  and  flags.  To  add  to  our  happiness  we  were 
blessed  with  two  mails  from  home  that  hit  us  just  right  to  allevi- 
ate any  pangs  of  homesickness,  one  on  the  22nd  and  the  other  on 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 15 

Christmas  Day.  During  the  afternoon  and  evening,  Captain  Har- 
low (commanding  the  California)  had  big  doings  in  the  way  of  a 
tree,  dinner  and  dance.  The  quarterdeck  of  the  ship,  and  even 
the  wharf  to  which  we  were  made  fast,  was  decorated  and  bril- 
liantly illuminated  with  colored  incandescents.  The  good  Hon- 
olulans  who  attended  will  long  remember  that  great  time.  Santa 
Claus  dropped  from  his  biplane  long  enough  to  leave  them  his 
whole  cargo  of  horns  and  whistles  (poor  chap  had  to  make  a 
special  trip  for  more)  and  they  were  faithfully  used,  as  the  din 
created  proved. 

Our  Christmas  dinner  aboard  didn't  amount  to  much,    as 
may  be  readily  seen  by  reading  the  following: 

Mulligatawny   Soup 

Mixed  Pickles  Celery  Olives 

Salmon  au  Gratin,  Tartare  Sauce 

Fricandeau  of  Veal  Braized  Cold  Ham 

Roast  Turkey,  Sage  Dressing,  Giblet  Dressing 

Stewed  Cranberries 

Aspaiagus,  Drawn  Butter  Sweet  Potatoes 

Assorted  Pies 
Combination  Salad  Cream  Cheese  Soda  Wafers 

Ice  Cream,  Wine  Cake 

Bananas  Apples 

Christmas  Bags 

Cigars  '  Coffee 

It  was  better  than  nothing,  however! 


16 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

On  Christmas  night  the  good  old  Prunepickers  made 
merry  with  many  of  Honolulu's  fairest  maidens  at  a  select  dance 
given  by  them  in  the  Young  Hotel  roof  garden.  The  various 
committees  who  negotiated  the  affair  to  its  successful  conclu- 
sion, follow: 

Dancing  Committee — W.  A.  Zellar,  president;  B.  M. 
Gery,  Secretary;  H.  Sobel,  treasurer;  W.  L.  Graeff,  Chairman. 

Committee  on  Arrangements — W.  V.  Leahy,  Chair- 
man; E.  F.  Kidrick,  J.  R.  Corson. 

Committee  on  Reception — S.  McLaughlin,  Chairman; 
W.  Krickmeyer,  J.  A.  Bowman,  J.  A.  Paul. 

CoMMiTTE  on  Decorations — M.  D.  Conroy,  A.  T.  Fish, 
C.  A.  Hawkins,  W.  C.  Clayton,  B.  C.  Arnold. 

Committee  on  Fj.oor — C.  Kaiser,  Chairman;  M.  L. 
Francis,  L.  M.  Spring,  J.  D.  Holt,  W.  W.  Lewis,  J.  Mogart,  J. 
W.  Robbins. 

Committee  on  Refreshments — W.  A.  Day,  M.  Hooper, 
A.  A.  Coyle,  C.  C.  Viets. 

The  Hawaiian  band  began  a  series  of  farewell  serenade 
concerts  (which  turned  out  to  be  a  trifle  premature)  held  on 
the  quarterdeck  of  each  ship,  beginning,  on  the  26th,  with  the 
California.     These  were  very  much  enjoyed  by  all  hands. 

On  the  29th,  a  brigade  was  landed  from  the  ships  of  the 
fleet  and  reviewed  by  Governor  Frear.  The  boys  made  a  splen- 
did showing  and  were  highly  complimented  by  the  Governor 
and  all  who  saw  them.  On  the  evening  of  the  same  day  the  Elks 
of  Honolulu  entertained  the  Elks  of  the  Fleet  and  their  friends 
with  an  elaborate  smoker  in  their  clubrooms.  The  highjinks 
were  some  mellifluous  and  hugely  enjoyed.  The  program  in- 
cluded so  many  good  things  (of  which  the  eats  and  drinks  were 
not  the  least)  that  it  was  hard  to  pick  favorites.  The  "Colorado 
Quartette"  was  enjoyed  as  much  as  the  "Hula  Hula  Girls" 
and  the  Texas  Tommy  danced  by  Master-At-Arms  Francis  and 
Coxswain  Spring  of  the  California  was  as  uproariously  applaud- 
ed as  the  best  efforts  of  the  stars  of  the  Hughes  Comedy  Com  - 
pany.     Honors  were  even  on  a  program  lasting  until  3  a.  m. 

But  many  a  good  Elk  was  in  a  devil  of    a    fix    that   night 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 17 

because  while  these  jinks  Were  going  on  at  the  clubroom,  at  the 
/oung  Hotel  across  the  street  almost,  the  Merchant's  Associa- 
tion of  Honolulu  were  entertaining  the  men  of  the  fleet  with  the 
swellest  kind  of  a  ball.  Lovely  girls,  pretty  decorations,  royal 
music,  brilliant  tropical  moonlight,  delicate  comestibles,  and 
delicious  punch  and  lemonade,  what  more  could  a  gob  want  this 
side  of  his  idea  of  Heaven?  By  clever  management  the  town 
boys  were  ruled  off  the  floor  until  after  10:30,  so  we  had  all  to 
ourselves  for  a  few  hours  all  the  female  loveliness  of  Honolulu! 
The  grand  march  was  played  by  the  Royal  Hawaiian  Band,  and 
led  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Swain,  followed  by  Admiral  Thomas  and 
Mrs.  Cowles,  Admiral  Cowles  and  Mrs.  Thomas,  Governor 
Frear  and  Miss  Cowles,  Captain  and  Mrs.  Marix,  and  a  long 
line  of  manofwarsmen  each  with  a  beautiful  partner  made  fast 
in  the  crook  of  his  starboard  flipper.     Some  class  to  us.     What? 

On  the  evening  of  the  30th  the  Filipinos  serving  on  board 
the  California  tendered  to  their  Honolulu  friends  a  dance  which 
was  held  in  the  Odd  Fellows  Hall.  They  furnished  their  own 
music.     Refreshments  were  served  and  all  had  a  fine  time. 

As  the  New  Year  began  on  Monday,  things  were  pretty 
quiet  until  midnight  but  pandemonium  broke  loose  then  and 
the  youngster  was  ushered  in  with  proper  pomp  and  ceremony. 
The  usual  pledges  were  made  by  all  hands — and  broken  later  in 
quite  the  usual  way. 

The  California  seemed  to  be  the  only  live  ship  in  the 
fleet  from  the  noise  her  charivari  party  made. 

The  first  sporting  event  of  the  New  Year  was  a  race 
pulled  between  the  black  gangs  of  the  South  Dakota  and  Mary- 
land, which  resulted  in  the  Maryland  having  more  change  to 
spend  than  the  South  Dakota  on  January  2nd. 

The  usual  official  calls  were  made  and  returned  during 
the  day,  and  the  "Full  guard  and  band"  call  kept  the  buglar 
and  them  from  complaining  of  lack  of  exercise.  The  cooks  of 
fleet  had  to  move  some  too  in  order  get  the  turkeys  the  Glacier 
brought  us,  ready  for  mastication. 

At  about  10:30  a.  m,  the  officer  of  the  deck  was  startled 
by  a  hail  from  over  the  side,  "Ship  ahoy,  what  ship    is   that?" 


18  NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

and  rushing  to  the  gangway  he  espied  bearing  down  upon  our 
port  quarter  the  good  sloop  of  war  HORNET,  flying  the  flag  of 
the  Secretary  of  the  Navy.  Immediately  the  "Full  guard  and 
band"  call  was  sounded  and  the  Hornet  rounded  to  and  an- 
chored off  our  port  gangway  (the  California  was  starboard  side 
to  the  dock)  and  Admiral  Thomas,  his  staff,  the  officers  of  the 
ship  find  their  guests  assembled  at  the  gangway  to  welcome  the 
distinguished  visitor  and  his  guests.  The  Secretary  was  accom- 
panied by  Uncle  Sam,  Miss  Columbia,  the  Admiral  of  the  Navy 
and  the  crew  of  the  HORNET  (a  gunner,  boatswain's  mate  and 
a  seaman)  who,  after  their  official  reception,  proceeded  to  make 
an  official  inspection  of  the  ship. 

The  first  act  of  the  Secretary  was  to  present  Admiral 
Thomas  with  an  enormous  whitewash  brush,  with  the  request 
that  he  immediately  have  it  applied  to  the  crews'  conduct  books 
of  the  fleet.  His  suggestion  was  gracefully  received  by  Admiral 
Thomas,  who  was  pleased  to  be  able  to  inform  the  Secretary 
that,  owing  to  the  excellent  conduct  of  the  men  under  his  com- 
mand, conduct  books  were  so  little  needed  in  the  fleet  that  a  very 
small  amount  of  whitewash  would  readily  suffiice  to  cleanse  their 
almost  snow  white  pages. 

The  marine  guard  (seaman  guard  in  this  case  a?  the  marines 
were  ashore  in  camp)  was  first  carefully  inspected,  found  to  be 
in  very  good  shape,  and  attention  was  then  directed  to  the  con- 
dition of  the  wane  lockers  of  the  ship.  These  were  found  to  be 
in  frightful  condition,  though  scarcely  one  of  neglect,  which  was 
greatly  improved  before  the  party  left  the  ship.  Appropos  of  this 
condition,  Uncle  Sam  remarked  to  Admiral  Thomas,  "Admiral 
the  popping  of  guns  in  time  of  war  is  music  to  my  ears  only  ex- 
celled by  the  popping  of  corks  in  time  of  peace. ' ' 

Before  leaving  the  ship  the  Admiral  of  the  navy  made  a  few 
inspiring  remarks  to  the  officers  and  crew  mustered  aft,  to  the 
effect  that  should  occasion  ever  warrant  he  was  certain  that  the 
modern  manofwarsman  would  give  as  good  an  account  of  himself 
as  did  those  who  sailed  the  seas  in  the  days  when  the  good  sloop 
HORNET  made  history. 

By  the  time  the  HORNET  had  completed  the  rounds  of  the 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 19 

fleet  their  strenuous  labors  in  making  the  rigid  inspection  of  each 
ship  seemed  to  have  told  on  their  strength  and  they  all  developed 
symptoms  which  would  indicate  that  they  had  possibly — over- 
eaten! The  sporty  South  Dakota  furnished  the  cast  and  their 
lashup  was  great. 

The  dinghy  was  square  rigged  with  a  set  of  sails  arranged 
so  that  a  pull  on  a  line  would  furl  them  all  at  the  same  time. 
This  made  taking  in  sail  easy.  *A  wooden  anchor  made  fast  to 
a  fathom  of  line  was  hove  overboard  with  appropriate  ceremony 
on  coming  to  anchor  alongside  the  gangway.  Salutes  were  fired 
from  revolvers  inserted  in  lengths  of  stovepipe  which  made  pretty 
respectable  looking  cannon. 

The  personnel  was  as  follows: 

Secretary  of  the  Navy  Chief  Bos'ns  Mate  McCabe 

Miss  Columbia  Fireman  Peletier 

Admiral  of  the  Navy         •    Chief  Bos'ns  Mate  Sullivan 
Colonel  of  Marines  Coxswain  Butler 

Boatswain  Bos'ns  Mate  Shorty  Walters 

The  Crew  Seamen  Bedat  and  Jackson. 

The  uniforms  were  gorgeous  caricatures  of  real  ones.  The 
pompous  and  dignified  bearing  of  each  member  of  the  party  was 
just  right.  Miss  Columbia  was  a  corking  beauty,  but  apparently 
a  little  fond  of  the  powder  puff.  The  seamen  were  outfitted 
with  a  couple  of  queues — that  is,  each  had  one  hanging  down 
his  back — and  their  actions  in  immitation  of  seamen  of  the  old 
school  were  all  to  the  muster. 

In  the  evening  the  Colorado  and  West  Virginia  held  a 
boxing  card  on  the  wharf,  to  each  side  of  which  one  of  them 
was  made  fast.  The  bouts  were  all  good  ones  and  the  mixups 
were  fast  and  furious.  A  capacity  crowd  from  ship  and  shore 
witnessed  the  contests. 

Through  the  local  papers  the  men  of  the  fleet  expressed 
their  appreciation  of  the  cordial  treatment  received  from  the 
good  people  of  Honolulu  and  wished  them  all  another  happy 
and  prosperous  year. 

Honolulu  society  tendered  to  the  naval  officers  and  their 
ladies  a  farewell  dinner  dance  on  the  evening  of  January  second. 


20      NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

This  dance  was  held  in  the  ballroom. of  the  Moana  hotel. 

On  the  same  evening,  Sergeant  Barry — main  squeeze 
sport  promoter  between  the  local  and  fleet  athletes — entertained 
over  a  hundred  of  the  fleet  ball  players  and  other  sportsmen 
with  a  regular  old  fashioned  luau  at  Mrs.  Puahi's  at  Waikiki. 
The  fun  started  at  about  7  o'clock  with  a  big  feed.  It  did  not 
take  the  guests  long  to  learn  to  dip  a  forefinger  into  the  poi 
bowl,  twist  it  around,  and  then  convey  to  their  mouth  the  sticky 
mess  which  adhered  to  it.  The  tables  were  crowded  with  Toast 
pig,  fowl  and  dog,  with  a  variety  of  native  vegetables  as  well  as 
some  we  already  new.  Lest  delicate  stomachs  might  be  offended 
the  heads  of  the  dogs  were  placed  on  the  carcasses  of  the 
pigs  and  vice  versa.  This  resulted  in  considerable  economy  of 
pork!  There  were  plenty  of  liquid  refreshments  to  wash  down 
the  solids  with  and  everything  went  merry  as  a  marriage  feast, 
to  the  accompaniment  of  music  and  song  rendered  by  native 
soloists  and  vocalists.  After  dinner  the  guests  were  treated  to 
a  Hula  Hula  dance;  seven  expert  girls  showing  just  how  this 
should  be  performed.  This  dance  is  really  wonderful  when 
seen  in  its  perfection  and  all  the  way  through  to  the  finish.  It 
is  very  hard  work  too,  for  the  performers  who  go  through  the 
bodily  exertion  necessary  in  its  execution.  It  takes  more  than 
an  hour  to  go  through  all  the  parts.  The  exhibition  was  very 
much  appreciated  by  those  so  fortunate  as  to  witness  it. 

Anticipating  the  departure  of  the  fleet  at  an  early  date, 
Captain  Ellicott,  commanding  the  Maryland,  gave  to  the  offi- 
cers' ladies  and  their  friends  present  in  Honolula,  a  farewell 
dinner  and  dance  aboard  that  ^hip. 

On  the  4th,  the  Marines  of  the  fleet  returned  to  their 
ship  from  the  encampment  at  Pearl  Harbor  where  they  had 
been  carrying  out  rifle  practice  and  shore  drills.  They  had 
great  fun  one  morning  when  they  captured  Honolulu  from  the 
local  militia  who  attempted  to  defend  the  city  in  a  sham   battle. 

We  had  all  thought  to  start  for  the  good  old  U.  S.  A.  on 
the  6th  of  January,  and  accordingly  we  were  in  high  spirits, 
but  the  wind  was  taken  out  of  our  sails  when,  late  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  5th  we  were  informed  that  our  sailing    from    Hono- 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 21 

lulu  for  anywhere  was  indefinitely  postponed.  As  the  mail  was 
scheduled  to  leave  on  the  morning  of  the  6th  there  was  a  wild 
scramble  and  much  burning  of  midnight  oil,  in  an  endeavor  to 
get  letters  off  at  the  earliest  possible  moment  informing  parents, 
and  others,  that  the  fatted  calf  might  develop  into  an  old  heifer 
before  it  would  become  necessary  to  kill  it  for  our  benefit. 

For  a  few  days,  indigo  was  the  prevailing  color  of  every- 
thing we  looked  at.  Joy  wa»  only  to  be  seen  on  the  faces  of 
those  who  really  believe  that  Honolulu  is  the  "Paradise  of  the 
Pacific."  A  few  jolts  of  hard  graft  in  connection  with  Admir- 
al's inspection  soon  livened  things  up,  however,  as  everyone 
was  kept  on  the  jump  with  troubles  other  than  their  personal 
ones.  Because  of  so  many  drills,  there  was  little  chance  of  in- 
dulging in  sports — it  was  hard  enough  to  get  in  a  dash  of 
straight  liberty  now  and  then.  But  it  was  not  so  long,  after  all, 
before  a  stray  dance  or  other  social  frolic  timidly  poked  its  head 
above  the  horizon,  and  we  were  soon  in  the  merry  whirl  again. 
As  a  matter  of  fact  the  good  old  beef  boat  Glacier  really  was  re- 
sponsible for  the  starting  into  activity  of  social  life  again  for, 
on  the  night  of  the  11th,  her  crew  gave  a  dance  at  the  Seaside 
hotel  that  was  some  lalapolloosa  (whatever  that  means.) 

Anyway  we  had  a  bang  up  good  time  that  night  and  for- 
got all  our  troubles. 

The  Glacier  boys  gave  this  dance  to  revenge  themselves  on 
the  town  people  for  the  good  times  they  had  given  them,    and  al 
so  to  show  us  of  the  big  ships  that  size  dosen't  always  mean  qual- 
ity.    A  livelier  bunch  than    those  present    ©n    this    occasion    it 
would  be  hard    to  find.     One  of    the   pretty    features    was  the 
I'-j^rees  on  the  lawn  brightly  illuminated    with    colored    incande-  ^ 
scents  which  were  aided,  rather  than  dulled,  by  the  glow  of  the" 
full  moon  sailing  the  cloudless  sky  overhead.     The  lawn  lies  be- 
tween the  hotel  and  the  beach,  and  offers  a  delightful    withdraw- 
ing place  betwen  dances,  as  it  is  sprinkled  with    summer  houses 
and  plenty  of  rustic  benches. 

The  Maryland's  crew  will  not  soon  forget  the  14th  of  Jan- 
uary, for  on  that  date  she  was  selected  to  make  a  flying  trip  to 
South  America,  and,  consequently  they  were  notified,    so  far  as 


22  NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

possible,  to  return  to  their  ship  immediately.  They  all  got  on 
board  but  four,  and  they  turned  up  next  morning,  a  very  much 
surprised  quartet  to  find  their  ship  gone  without  them.  She 
coaled  on  the  afternoon  of  the  14th — also  took  on  stores — and  got 
off  at  5  a.  m.  the  15th.  While  the  Maryland  ran  into  some  hot 
weather  and  had  a  pretty  quiet  time  for  several  months,  she  has 
since  made  up  for  it  by  a  constant  chasing  up  and  down  the  coast 
from  Punta  Arenas,  Chile,  to  Sound  ports  up  north;  (incidentally 
taking  the  secretary  of  State  to  visit  Central  American  ports  on 
affairs  of  state)  and  as  she  was  all  alone  as  a  representative  of  the 
big  ships,  she  has  had  things  pretty  much  her  own  way.  Yet, 
we  suppose  some  of  her  men  are  kicking  because  they  didn't  get  a 
chance  at  this  oriental  cruise.     Lots  of  us  would  trade  with  them! 

Baseball  took  on  a  new  lease  of  life  when,  on  the  afternoon 
of  the  14th  Barry's  Beauts  put  it  on  the  Colorado  4-3  and  the 
California  slipped  one  over  on  the  2nd  Infantry  team  4-0  in  seven 
innings. 

We  were  taken  a  little  bit  unawares  by  the  New  Orleans, 
which  ship  blew  in  on  her  way  home  from  China,  on  the  evening 
of  the  15th,  in  order  to  fill  her  bunkers  with  steam  producer  and 
her  holds  with  canned  Willie,  to  keep  her  moving  over  the  last 
lap  of  her  long  run.  Old  shipmates  had  a  chance  to  hobnob, 
as  she  stayed  until  the  20th.  She  took  with  her  our  prisoners, 
sick,  and  a  few  short  timers,  when  she  left,  and  as  she  headed 
out  toward  Farewell  Buoy  she  broke  out  a  homeward  bound 
pennant  that  trailed  some  four  hundred  feet  or  more  astern.  The 
darned  old  bands  played  her  off  and  of  course  everybody  had 
the  usual  swelling  sensation  in  the  thorax  when  ''Home,  Sweet 
Home,"  was  reached.  That  tune  ought  to  be  cut  out  on  occa- 
sions like  that,  but  everybody  would  miss  it  if  it  was,  so  what's 
the  use? 

The  w^eek  ending  January  20th  might  well  have  been 
dubbed  "Social  Week"  because  of  the  many  luncheons,  teas 
and  dinners  given  by  the  officers  to  their  shore  friends.  Every 
visiting  day  the  ships  were  overrun  with  people  who  wanted  to 
get  a  last  look  at  our  combined  dining  room,  bed  room  and 
shooting  gallery.     You  see,  we  were  all  up   in   the   air    because 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 25 

we  didn't  know  what  minute  orders  would  come  to  make  a 
move  in  some  direction,  and  things  looked  about  as  promising 
in  one  direction  as  the  other. 

The  Hamburg- American  Line  around-the-world  steam- 
ship "Cleveland"  came  in  on  the  morning  of  the  24th.  While 
going  alongside  the  Alakea  wharf,  at  which  she  was  to  dock — to 
do  this  she  had  to  slip  in  between  the  wharf  and  the  Colorado 
which  was  tied  up  to  the  naval  wharf  adjacent — Captain  M.  N. 
Sanders,  veteran  pilot  of  the  port  of  Honolulu,  who  was  taking 
her  in,  dropped  dead  at  his  post  on  the  bridge.  The  Captain  of 
the  Cleveland  at  once  took  charge  only  just  in  time  to  avert 
what  narrowly  escaped  being  a  serious  collision  with  the  Colo- 
rado. As  it  was  the  Cleveland  scraped  the  blades  of  the  Colo- 
rado's port  propeller  enough  to  brighten  them  a  trifle,  otherwise 
there  was  no  damage  done.  Meanwhile  the  bands  ashore  and 
afloat  were  playing  a  welcome  to  the  world-tourists  and  it  was 
several  hours  before  it  became  publicly  known  that  Captain 
Sanders  was  dead. 

The  Cleveland  crowd  manifested  great  interest  in  the 
fleet,  large  numbers  of  them   visiting   us. 

The  South  Dakota  gave  a  variation  to  the  usual  form  of 
ship's  entertainment  by  celebrating  her  birthday  on  the  27th. 
Some  features  out  of  the  ordinary  were  the  more  than'  usually 
elaborate  and  lavish  decorations  of  the  quarterdeck.  One  of 
the  oddest  things  we  ever  saw — in  or  out  of  a  dream-^was  a 
figure  perched  on  toptside,  aft,  of  the  after  8-inch  turret.  It 
was  composed  of  a  complete  diver's  suit  rigged  up  so  it  would 
appear  like  a  coachman  driving.  It  had  electric  lights  in  its 
"head"  and  held  in  its  "hands"theends  of  two  long  streamers 
of  flowers  leading  to  the  muzzles  of  the  great  guns.  While  it 
wasn't  labeled,  we  have  an  idea  that  it  was  meant  to  represent 
somebody  driving  the  dogs  of  war.  Around  the  base  of  this 
turret  was  a  circlet  of  rifles,  with  glittering  bayonets  fixed, 
buried  in  flowers.  Astern  of  the  turret  amidships,  played  an 
illuminated  fountain.  Aft  of  that  was  placed  the  birthday  cake. 
This  little  trifle  of  the  bakers  art  was  only  four  feet  in  diameter, 
a  foot  and  a  half  high,  and  weighed  but  a  hundred  and  eighty- 


26 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

five  pounds.  There  was  enougk  to  go  around,  though,  if  you 
didn't  try  to  make  a  meal  of  just  cake  alone — the  way  some 
children  do  at  parties.  Anyway  there  was  another  cake,  pre- 
sented by  Admiral  and  Mrs.  Thomas,  and  this  one  had  four  can- 
dles stuck  at  rakish  angles  in  the  frosting. 

During  the  last  week  in  January,  the  fleet  went  outside 
the  harbor  in  order  that  certain  drills,  part  of  Admiral's  Inspec- 
tion, might  be  completed  while  the  ships  were  underway.  After 
we  got  through  with  this  we  started  in  routine  drills  again  in 
preparation  for  Spring  Target  Practice. 

Some  time  before.  Lieutenant  Keiran  and  some  other 
good  sports  among  us  Prunepickers,  happened  to  think  that  it 
had  been  a  long  time  since  any  of  the  ships  had  given  a  good 
show  on  the  quarterdeck,  so  they  got  together  with  the  laudable 
intention  of  showing  the  Honolulans  what  an  old  fashioned 
navy  minstrel  show  looks  like.  They  rang  up  the  curtain  to 
a  full  house  on  the  evening  of  February  1st.  We  made  a  hit 
from  start  to  finish,  the  liberal  applause  and  many  encores  hand- 
ed to  each  star  causing  them  to  sit  up  and  wonder  if  they  weren't 
in  the  wrong  place  in  the  navy. 

Honestly  they  did  so  well  that  they  surprised  even  us 
home  folks,  who  were  pretty  familiar  with  the  work  of  the 
songsters  who  had  been  so  faithful  in  rehearsing.  That  droll 
Michael — and  those  fool  endmen — and  the  members  of  the  circle 
who  could  cause  one  to  laugh  or  cry  as  they  sang  hot  rag- 
time or  pathetic  melody.  Mike  was  interlocutor — and  Michael 
is  his  last,  not  his  first  name.  Dunham  and  White,  Schiff- 
horst  and  Keiran,  were  tambos  and  bones.  The  circle,  while 
not  much  on  looks — except  black  looks — were  there,  as  aforesaid, 
with  the  noise,  and  Harry  Mack  played  entrancing  accompani- 
ments which  blended  perfectly  with  their  sweet  voices.  Stone 
was  stage  manager,  and  he  rolled  blithely  about  his  multifarious 
duties,  always  on  the  job,  so  that  everything  went  off  without 
any  delay.  Lieutenant  Keiran,  in  addition  to  voice-cul- 
turing  the  whole  troupe,  to  the  point  of  efficiency  displayed, 
painted  the  drop  and  the  rest  of  the  scenery.  Midshipman 
Stone  directed  the  stage  end  before  as  well  as  during   the   per- 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 27 

formance.  Pay  Clerk  Mack  was  always  available  for  piano 
work  at  rehearsals.  It  is  thought  that  Bob  White  was  respon- 
sible for  some  of  the  local  hits  that  evoked  heartiest  laughter. 
Requests  that  the  show  be  put  on  in  one  of  the  local  show  houses 
had  to  be  refused  on  account  of  the  possibility  that  we  might 
leave  any  day. 

On  the  12th  the  California  took  the  Colorado  and  South 
Dakota  for  a  romp  around  the  islands,  during  which  the  usual 
routine  drills  were  carried  on  day  and  night  getting  ready  for 
target  practice,  and  opportunities  were  taken  advantage  of  to 
visit  some  of  the  island  ports  out  of  the  beaten  track,  when  stops 
were  made.  Lahaina,  Island  of  Maui  was  the  first  of  these. 
The  village  was  small,  a  few  shacks  about  a  sugar  mill.  The 
next  evening  we  stopped  at  Kealakekua,  on  the  western  side  of 
the  island  of  Hawaii.  It  was  almost  impossible  to  find  a  bottom 
lo  anchor  to,  here,  until  we  were  close  in  under  a  sheer  cliff 
several  hundred  feet  high.  At  this  place  is  located,  in  a  small 
grove  of  tropical  growths,  the  famous  "Cook's  Monument," 
erected  in  memory  of  Captain  James  Cook,  Royal  Navy,  who 
discovered  these  islands  on  June  18,  1778,  and  was  killed,  neai 
the  spot  where  the  monument  now  stands,  on  February  14, 
1779.  This  monument  was  erected  in  November,  1874,  by 
some  of  his  fellow  countrymen.  In  the  early  afternoon  a  land- 
ing party  from  the  Californiavisited  the  spot  and  policed  up  the 
monument — cleaning  out  and  repainting  the  black  letter  inscrip- 
tion— repainting  the  iron  fence — and  putting  in  good  condition, 
generally  the  plot  surrounding  it.  Photographs  were  taken  of 
Admiral  Thomas,  Captain  Harlow,  and  others  standing  near, 
and  the  monument  was  snapped  from  every  point  of  view. 

The  party  enjoyed  rambling  about  in  search  of  bits  of  coral 
or  other  treasure  trove  as  souvenirs  of  the  occasion,  and  in  knock- 
ing cocoanuts  off  the  trees  for  immediate  consumption.  Later 
in  the  afternoon  we  all  went  across  the  bay  to  Napoopoo,  where 
there  was  a  fine  beach,  and  enjoyed  a  plunge  in  the  surf.  In  a 
little  village  nearby  some  of  our  explorers  found  the  ruins  of  an 
ancient  huan,  or  native  temple.  Several  hundred  bluejackets 
turned  loose  in   these  places  furnished  a  spectacle   never  before 


28 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

seen  and  not  soon  to  be  forgotten . 

At  8  p.  m.  we  again  got  underway  and  stood  around  to 
Hilo  on  the  other  side  of  the  island — just  about  opposite  Kea- 
lakekua — arriving  there  at  9:30  the  next  morning.  This  was 
our  second  visit  to  Hilo  and  we  were  glad  to  see  again  some  of 
the  pleasant  people  who  gave  us  such  a  good  time  when  we 
were  first  here.  They  turned  to  with  a  will  to  furnish  entertain- 
ment for  us.  Again  this  visit  furnished  an  opportunity  for  many 
who  did  not  make  the  trip  to  Kilauea  the  last  time,  to  do  so 
now.  A  number  of  us  who  had  made  the  trip  before  went  again 
and  many  of  us  would  make  still  another  trip  if  we  had  the 
chance.  At  this  time  the  lava  was  about  300  feet  lower  than 
on  our  previous  visit,  but  it  was  just  as  interesting  as  ever,  per- 
haps more  so  because  of  the  changes  that  had  occured.  When 
the  burning  mass  sinks  to  a  low  level,  great  masses  of  the  lava, 
which  had  been  thrown  up  and  cooled,  forming  temporary  walls 
fall  back  into  the  pit.  This  makes  it  unsafe  to  linger  about  the 
brink  of  the  pit. 

Several  ball  games  were  played,  and  a  dance  was  given 
us  in  the  armory. 

On  the  18th  we  left  for  Kahului,  arriving  at  9:30  the  fol- 
f owing  morning.  There  was  a  small  village  here  and  several 
sugar  mills  and  refineries.  We  did  not  land  here  as  we  stayed 
but  a  short  time  and  then  went  on  our  way  back  to  Honolulu 
where  we  arrived  at  7  in  the  morning  of  the  19th.  Because  of 
our  long  j^tay  at  Honolulu,  we  felt  somewhat  as  if  we  had  gotten 
home  when  we  got  back  there,  though  we  still  have  some  dim 
memories  of  a  land  sometimes  spoken  of  as  "The  States." 

Before  we  left  for  this  run  around  the  islands,  each  ship 
contributed  its  quota  of  men  from  the  Carpenter's  gang,  who 
took  up  their  quarters  on  board  the  Glacier  and  devoted  their 
energies  to  the  construction  of  a  naval  float  for  entry  in  the 
Floral  Parade  which  was  to  occur  on  the  afternoon  of  February 
22nd. 

On  the  morning  of  the  22nd  we  landed  battalions  of  sea- 
men and  marines  to  take  part  in  the  greatest  military  pageant 
ever  seen  in  Honolulu,  held  in  honor  of  the  anniversary  of    the 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 31 

birth  of  the  Father  of  our  Country. 

The  order  of  march  was  as  follows: 

Mounted  Police 

Brigadier  General  Macomb,  U.  S.  A.,  (commanding) 
Staff;  Orderlies 

Fifth  Cavalry 

First  Field  Artillery 

Second  Infantry  ^ 

Coast  Artillery  Battalion 

Company  "G"  Second  Battalion  Engineers 

Captain  W.  A.  Gill,  U.  S.  N.,  (commanding)  Staff;  Or- 
derlies 

Colorado's  Band 

Marine  Battalion,  with  machine  guns 

South  Dakota's  Battalion  of  Seamen 

California's  Battalion  of  Seamen 

California's  and  South  Dakota's  bands 

Colorado's  Battalion  of  Seamen  with  Field  Guns 

First  Regiment,  National  Guard  of  Hawaii 

Karaehameha  Cadet  Battalion. 

On  the  reviewing  stand  was  an  assemblage  of  repre- 
sentative civil  and  military  officials  accompanied  by  families  and 
friends.  The  line  of  march  was  thronged  with  enthusiastic 
spectators  who  heartily  cheered  the  khaki  clad  boys  of  the  army, 
and  the  sailors  in  their  natty  white  dress. 

At  two  o'clock  the  great  event  of  the  day  began  when 
the  Floral  Parade  started  from  Capital  Square  where  hundreds 
of  camera  fiends  had  been  busy  snapping  the  gorgeous  floats. 
Leading  the  parade  was  Prince  Jonah  Kalanianaole,  heir  to  the 
throne  of  Hawaii,  attended  by  his  court — daintily  dressed 
Hawaiian  youths  and  maidens  mounted  on  gaily  caparisoned 
ponies. 

The  pa-u  riders,  with  their  attendants,  representing  the 
princesses  of  each  island  of  the  group,  followed.  To  us  mali- 
hinis  this  sight  of  royalty  and  its  cortege  was  a  brilliantly 
beautiful  one  of  great  interest. 

Next  came  the  public  service  floats  and    after    them    the 


32      NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE  

comic  section  of  the  parade.  This  was  headed  by  the  Hands 
Around  the  Pacific  Club,  followed  by  the  Outrigger  Canoe  Club 
float — a  native  outrigger  canoe  manned  by  native  boys  in  Boy 
Scouts'  uniform.  Then  came  the  entry  of  the  Trail  and  Moun- 
tain Club,  representing  a  typical  grass  hut  before  which  was  a 
native  seated  and  pounding  poi  between  two  stones.  The  Boy 
Scouts  were  next  in  line  dressed  in  field  uniform  and  having 
a  tent  pitched  ready  for  camp  life. 

The  float  following  depicted  "Our  People"  and  on  it  was 
Miss  Columbia  seated  on  a  throne  beneath  a  red  white  and  blue 
canopy,  and  surrounded  by  children  representing  a  dozen  differ- 
ent races.  Next  in  order  came  the  Malihini  Christmas  tree,  a 
Spanish  Galleon  such  as  pirates  used  to  delight  in  looting, 
members  of  Company  "F,"  First  Field  Artillery,  garbed  in  the 
uniform  of  soldiers  of  Colonial  days  and  escorting  an  ancient 
fieldpiece.  Their  appearance  gave  us  an  approximate  idea  of 
how  the  boys  of  '76  must  have  looked  when  rigged  out  in  their 
best  bib  and  tucker.  The  famous  and  popular  Kaai  Glee  Club, 
native  singers  and  instrumentalists,  were  gracefully  posed  on  a 
float  decorated  in  royal  purple  and  white,  and  they  were  given 
an  ovation  as  they  passed. 

The  hit  of  the  parade,  as  a  joke,  was  the  Water-Wagon. 
A  wave  of  laughter  followed  its  wabbly  progress  down  the  street 
— one  look  at  its  occupants  being  sufficient  to  explain  why. 
Carrie  Nation  furiously  brandished  her  hatchet  in  the  face  of 
unlucky  Happy  Hooligan  while  a  two  hundred  and  fifty  pound 
Mellin's  Food  baby  contentedly  sucked  on  a  nipple  attached  to 
a  fathom  of  rubber  tubing  to  a  gallon  bottle  of  milk,  undis- 
turbed by  her  furious  tirade.  The  wagon  itself  was  the  familiar 
type  of  street  sprinkler,  gaily  decorated  for  the  occasion  with 
bunting  and  bearing  a  sign  reading  "HIGH,  DRY,  AND 
COOL."  Several  other  characters  added  to  the  solemnity  of  the 
turnout  by  inviting  various  and  sundry  good-looking  young 
ladies  and  gentlemen  in  the  crowd  to  "get  on  and  ride."  Here 
and  there  during  its  royal  progress  through  the  crowd  one 
might  hear  some  one  near  heave  a  deep  sigh  as  they  watched  it 
pass  and  yet — were  on  it!        No  one  actually  fell  off  during  the 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS 33 

parade,  but  it  is  rumored  that  a  long,  slippery  pole,  was  handed 
to  them  at  the  end  of  their  journey,  down  which  they  all  slid 
when  disembarking.  The  naval  float  was  perhaps  the  greatest 
novelty  in  the  parade.  An  exact  model,  complete  in  every  de- 
tail, of  a  first  class  cruiser,  was  mounted  on  an  enormous  motor 
truck.  From  the  forward  and  after  turrets  the  formiddable 
"eight-inch"  guns  fired  charge  after  charge  of  confetti  at  the 
crowds.  Clouds  of  smoke  belched  forth  from  the  smoke 
stacks;  signals  were  run  up  to  the  yards,  the  semaphores  were 
working,  and  a  lookout  was  stationeci  in  the  top  of  her  cage 
mast.     Both  of  these  floats  won  special  prizes. 

The  California  won  the  prize  for  the  real  float  in  the  wat- 
er carnival  held  on  the  water  in  the  harbor  in  the  evening.  The 
illumination  of  the  ships  of  the  fleet  added  much  to  the  brilliancy 
of  this  scene. 

We  were  especialy  complimented,  through  the  Command- 
er-in-Chief, on  our  appearance  and  showing  in  the  military 
parade,  and  the  Director  General  of  the  Floral  Parade  took  oc- 
casion to  thank  the  Commander-in-Chief,  Ofiicers  and  Men  for 
their  interest  in,  and  help  toward  making  the  celebration  so 
an  enjoyable  an  one. 

While  all  this  excitement  was  going  on  in  Honolulu  the 
West  Virginia  had,  on  February  16,  quietly  slipped  off  on  a 
cruise  to  nobody  knew  where,  so  missing  the  fun,  as  she  did 
not  return  until  it  was  all  over. 

On  March  1st,  the  Commander-in-Chief  announced  that 
the  West  Verginia  had  been  ordered  to  the  navy  yard  for  re- 
pairs and  that  he  would,  on  March  7th,  in  obedience  to  orders 
received  from  the  Navy  Department,  turn  over  the  command  of 
the  Pacific  Fleet  to  Rear  Admiral  W.  H.  H.  Southerland,  U.  S. 
N.,  Commander,  Second  Division,  U.  S.  Pacific  Fleet.  On  re- 
ceipt of  this  news  everything  commenced  to  move  in  a  lively 
manner  to  get  things  shipshape  in  so  limited  a  time.  The  West 
Virginia's  crew  was  more  or  less  split  up  by  transfers  to  the  other 
ships  of  the  fleet  to  take  the  place  of  men  who  had  comparatively 
short  times  to  do.  Stores  were  shifted  about  more  or  less,  and 
transfers    of  officers   and  their  belongings  took  place  to  make 


34 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

ready  for  the  shift  of  flags.  Orders  were  received  to  consoli- 
date the  fleet  into  one  division  after  the  change  of  command,  to 
consist  of  the  California  as  flagship,  Colorado,  South  Dakota  and 
Maryland. 

In  the  midst  of  the  bustle  the  crew  of  the  West  Virginia 
got  busy  and  arranged  for  a  (real)  farewell  dance  which  was 
held  on  the  evening  of  the  5th. 

Altogether,  about  300  men  were  transferred  from  the  West 
Virginia  and  replaced  from  the  other  vessels  of  the  fleet,  and  thus 
many  happy  homes  were  brgken  up  ashore  and  afloat.  But  new 
ones  were  soon  established;  the  Honolulu  belles  consoling  them- 
selves as  best  they  might  with  those  of  us  who  were  left. 

At  ten  minutes  before  twelve,  noon,  March  7th,  1912,  Rear 
Admiral  Chauncey  Thomas,  U.  S.  Navy,  Commander-in-Chief 
of  the  United  States  Pacific  Fleet  since  January  16th,  1911,  read 
to  his  officers  and  men  assembled  on  the  quarterdeck  of  his  Flag- 
ship California,  orders  received  from  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy 
detaching  him  from  duty,  then  to  proceed  home  and  await  orders, 
and  directing  him  to  turn  over  his  command  to  Rear  Admiral  W. 
H.  H.  Southerland,  U.  S.  Navy,  who  had  served  under  him  as 
Commander  of  the  Second  Division,  U.  S.  Pacific  fleet,  since 
March  7th,  1911.  Upon  completing  the  reading  of  his  orders. 
Admiral  Thomas  made  a  few  remarks  appreciative  of  the  services 
rendered  by -all  those  under  his  command,  spoke  a  word  of  fare- 
well, then  turning  to  the  Captain  of  the  California,  said  "Haul 
down  my  flag.  Captain  Harlow." 

Admiral  Southerland  then  stepped  forward,  read  his  ord- 
ers and  ordered  his  flag  hoisted,  after  which  an  opportunity 
was  afforded  to  say  a  word  of  farewell  to  Admiral  Thomas. 

At  12:30,  officers  representing  each  mess  of  the  ship  acted 
as  sideboys,  and  others  manned  a  regulation  cutter  in  which 
they  pulled  Admiral  Thomas  out  to  his  temporary  flagship — 
the  good  old  West  Virginia — in  which  he  was  to  make  the  trip 
home.  V7hen  the  cutter  left  the  gangway  the  officers  and  crew, 
as  one  man,  cheered  again  and  again  our  friend  Admiral 
Chauncey  Thomas,  who  stood  up  in  the  stern  and  with  bared 
head  bowed  his  acknowledgement  of  our  parting  greeting.    That's 


THE  HAWAIIAN  ISLANDS         35 

the  way  we  all  felt  about  him — that  we  were  losing  a  friend — and 
a  mighty  good  friend,  too. 

At  1:30,  sharp,  the  West  Virginia  left  and  was  soon  hit- 
ting it  up  for  the  high  places  at  fifteen  knots. 

During  March  the  Marine  Detachments  of  all  the  ships  were 
combined  into  a  battalion  under  the  command  of  Major  C.  S. 
Hill,  Fleet  Marine  Officer,  and  b>  him  taken  into  campatScho- 
field  Barracks,  Leilehua,  for  a  period  of  shore  drills  and  exer- 
cises, including  small  arm  target  practice.  This  camp  life  w^as 
very  much  enjoyed  as  a  change  from  ship  routine.  The  boys 
came  back  all  tanned  up  and  full  of  vim  and  vigor  as  any  Sunny 
Jim  as  a  result  of  their  outdoor  exercises  in  the  field.  There  is 
a  big  difference  between  a  ship's  deck  and  awnings  and  the 
springy  turf  of  the  fields  and  cool  shadows  of  the  woods  when 
one  is  looking  for  a  place  to  hike  or  a  shady  spot  in  which  to 
cork  off.  It  having  become  pretty  certain  that  the  fleet  was  at 
last  to  move  in  some  direction  very  soon,  we  got  together 
and  gave  our  farewell  dance  and  blowout  to  the  townies  at  the 
Young  Hotel.  This,  our  final  effort  along  social  lines,  took 
place  on  the  evening  of  March  9th,  and  we  surpassed  ourselves. 
Much  of  the  success  of  this  affair  was  due  to  the  clever  work 
of  a  leap  year  committee  composed  of  popular  Honolulu 
maidens  who,  efficiently  aided  by  chaperones,  looked  after  the 
boys  who  were  unacquainted  or  did  not  dance,  and  found  com- 
panions for  them.  Thus  the  wallflower  element  was  entirely 
eliminated. 

Finally,  on  Saturday,  March  16th,  the  blow  fell,  when 
we  received  orders  to  proceed  to  Olongapo,  Philippine  Islands, 
for  Spring  Target  Practice. 

We  had  just  settled  down  comfortably  to  attend  pink  teas 
and  other  social  functions,  and  had  about  made  up  our  minds 
that  we  were  to  stay  in  Honolulu  for  the  remainder  of  our 
thirty  years  to  retirement,  when  along  came  the  dots  and  dashes 
over  the  cable  and  it  was  "Up  hook  and  Westward  ho!" — And 
yet  girls  will  marry  sailors! 

During  our  stay  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands  quite  a  number 
of  the  officers  and  men  of  the  fleet  purchased  lots  in  one  or  an- 


36 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

other  of  the  suburban  additions  to  Honolulu .  It  having  been  dis- 
covered that  there  was  plenty  of  land  in  the  Islands,  open  to  home- 
steading,  which  was  suitable  for  raising  a  diversity  of  crops 
which  would  find  a  ready  market  right  at  home,  several  of  the 
men  looked  up  the  situation  thoroughly,  with  a  view  of  settling 
down  "after  this  cruise"  or  upon  "retirement,"  and  were  fav- 
orably impressed  by  the  prospect. 

One  or  two  weddings  occurred  and  several  engagemente 
have  been  announced  as  results  of  our  stay,  and  it  is  safe  to  say 
that  many  of  us  will  be  glad  to  see  Honolulu  at  any  time  for 
most  any  length  of  time. 

Qur  eyes  were  opened  by  one  thing  during  our  stay  in 
that  port — the  interest  manifested  by  the  native  Hawaiians  (in- 
cluding native-born  Chinese  and  Japanese)  in  our  national 
game,  baseball.  The  local  teams  gave  us  some  mighty  good 
drubbings  and  made  us  go  some  when  we  managed  to  beat 
them  a  game. 

Our  '  'moving  day' '  from  Honolulu  was  March  18th.  The 
California  and  South  Dakota  got  underway  at  7:25  p.  m.,  ran 
outside  the  harbor  and  lay  to  while  the  Colorado  finished  taking 
on  her  stores.  And  then  along  came  Berger's  Royal  Hawaiian 
Band,  on  the  tug  Navajo,  to  give  us  a  farewell  serenade.  Some- 
how or  other  that  band  always  makes  us  feel  kind  of  sentimen- 
tal and  as  if  we  had  lost  something — or  wanted  something — 
and  what  it  was  that  we  wanted,  or  had  lost,  we  were  not  quite 
able  to  determine.  For  that  matter,  any  band  stirs  into  being 
all  the  romance  there  is  in  us  if  the  music  is  not  too  "fierce," 
when  we  hear  it  for  the  "last  time"  play  the  sweet  "Aloha"  or 
one  of  the  other  Hawaiian  melodies  which  we  had  come  to  know 
so  well  during  our  stay.  You  may  feel  certain  that  many  of 
the  boys  were  doing  some  tall  thinking  of  the  last  evening  they 
spent  with — whoever-she-was — on  the  lanai,  listening  as  she 
softly  strummed  an  harmonious  accompaniment  on  guitar  or 
ukelele  and  sang  for  him  some  melting  native  song.  Taking  it 
by-and-large,  we  weren't  any  too  happy  to  be  heading  out 
towards  the  Orient  instead  of  in  exactly  the  opposite  direction. 


CHAPTER  II. 

THE  PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS 

Fifteen  calendar  and  fourteen  actual  days — we  crossed 
the  180th  meridian  on  March  24th  and  jumped  into  the  25th  — 
of  steady  steaming  at  ten  knots  over  a  smooth  sea,  brought  us  to 
anchor  in  the  beautiful,  reef- protected  harbor  of  Apra,  Guam, 
on  April  2nd,  and  we  spent  the  rest  of  the  day  pleasantly  in 
slipping  the  Colorado  a  few  tons  of  black  diamonds  from  our 
ample  store.  That  poor  old  Colly  is  about  the  hungriest  ship 
we  ever  saw — a  regular  coal  devourer — always  ready  to  eat  her 
share  and  ours  too — and  then  yell  for  more!  During  the  day, 
official  calls  were  exchanged  with  the  Governor  of  Guam.  A 
few  of  us  had  a  chance  to  land  and  look  around  a  bit.  Some 
even  got  as  far  as  Agana,  the  metropolis  of  Guam,  and  its  only 
large  city,  with  a  population  of  about  7000.  They  on  their  re- 
turn reported  Agana  as  being  a  very  attractive  place — almost 
painfull}''  clean. 

An  interesting  situation  has  developed  in  this  island  as  a 
result  of  our  occupancy.  When  we  acquired  it,  the  population 
was  chiefly  engaged  in  rural  pursuits;  tilling  the  soil  as  little  as 
necessary,  and  hunting  and  fishing  a  great  deal.  Bountiful  Na- 
ture was  their  landlord,  their  wants  were  small,  easily  supplied 
and  the  least  of  them  of  so  little  money  value  that  the  laziest 
native  among  them  was  absolutely  self-supporting.  Nothing 
had  to  be  imported,  and  what  they  exported,  occasionally,  w^as 
clear  gain. 

For  many  reasons,  our  occupation  of  the  island  necessi- 
tated the  undertaking  of  considerable  large  building  and  con- 
structive work,  including  the  building  of  roads,  the  erection  of 
storehouses,  barracks,   etc. 

To  perform  these  tasks  required  the  services  of  every 
able-bodied  male  inhabitant  available,  and,  at  one  time  or  an- 
other, they  were  nearly  all  employed.  As  a  result,  in  a  few 
years  the  greater  number  of  men  in  the  island  were  changed  from 
farmers,  hunters,  and  fishermen,  into    more-or-less    skilled  me- 


38 NINE  xMON^THS  ON  A  CRUISE 

chanics  that  had  become  accustomed  to  working  for  a  daily 
wage  of  money.  Now,  all  this  work  is  practially  finished,  and 
the  natives  find  it  difficult  to  return  to  the  old  mode  of  life. 

A  number  of  the  natives  "bumboated"  us  with  island 
delicacies,  and  curios. 

Cocoanut  crabs,  palm  salad,  fresh  eggs,  chickens  and  co- 
coanuts  were  the  staple  foods  brought  on  board;  and  quaintly 
woven  baskets,  mats  and  bags,  manufactured  from  many  sorts  of 
grasses  and  fibres;  pretty  shells,  bits  of  fancy  colored  corals  and 
other  sea  treasures  were  offered  for  sale.  Amongst  the  lot  of  stuff 
offered  us  were  the  poorest  apology  for  cigars  ever  foisted  on  an 
unsuspecting  public.  All  the  junk  was  readily  purchased  by 
those  looking  for  novelties — one  of  the  maxims  of  the  modern 
man-o'-warsman  is  "Steve  Brodie  took  a  chance!" 

Altogether  the  day  formed  an  enjoyable  break  in  the 
monotony  of  our  long  voyage,  if  only  because  the  ships  stood 
still  awhile  and  gave  our  sea  legs  a  rest.  Then,  too,  the  sight 
of  this  beautiful  island  clothed  in  brilliant  green  and  set,  like  a 
jewel,  in  the  sparkling  waters  varying  in  shade  from  darkest 
blue  of  the  deeps  to  pale  greens  and  yellows  in  the  shallows 
over  the  coral  reefs,  was  most  agreeable  after  sailing  for  days 
over  seas  in  which  there  was  nothing  to  be  seen  other  than  our 
fleet,  except  an  occasional  flying  fish. 

At  8:46  p.  m.  we  ran  out  from  behind  the  reef  in  the 
light  of  the  tropical  full  moon  and  were  off  on  the  last  leg  of  our 
long  journey — which  was  completed  when,  at  2:37  p.  m.,  April 
8th,  we  anchored  in  Subic  Bay  off  the  Naval  station  at  Olonga- 
po,  Philippine  Islands. 

Olongapo  is  a  fine  little  town,  one  of  the  dryest  little 
towns  we  have  ever  been  in  outside  of  the  State  of  Maine,  and, 
while  it  has  few  inducements  to  offer  in  the  way  of  amusement 
for  liberty  parties,  we  managed  to  have  some  good  times  when, 
in  the  midst  of  preparations  for  target  practice,  we  were  allowed 
to  go  ashore,  for  there  were  two  moving  picture  shows,  two 
native  dance  halls,  and  any  number  of  soft  drink  and  chow 
emporiums.  Also,  there  are  several  native  villages  sprinkled 
around  the  shores  of  the  bay  within  an  hour's  sail    of  our  an- 


< 


THE  PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS 41 

chorage,  where  some  went  who   were  interested  in  discovering 
just  how  the  natives  live  away  from  the  haunts  of  civilization. 

Those  fond  of  dancing  had  the  time  of  their  lives!      The 
native  girls  were,  almost  without  exception,  more  than  ordinarily 
good  dancers.     They  are  light  in  weight  and  light  on  their  feet. 
The  climate  is  not  the  best  in  the  world  for  the  exercise  of  terpsi- 
chorean  ability,  but  one  soon  becomes  more  or  less  accustomed  to 
it.     If  one  wishes  to  indulge  in  dancing  the  method  of  procedure 
is  as  follows:     For  one  peseta — twenty  centavos — ten  cents  oro — 
one  dime — you  buy  a  brass  check  on  which  is  stamped  the  high- 
sounding  name  of  some  fair  one,  such  as  "Carmencita,"  "Bri- 
gita,"    "Marie,"    "Angelica,"  or  "Felicita."      When  the  bell 
rings  at  the  end  of  a  dance,  a  sign  is  displayed  with  the  number  of 
the  next  dance  on  it  and  you  present  your  ticket  to  the  floorwalk- 
er who  points  out  your  girl  seated  in  a  chair  over  which  is  an- 
other sign  with  her  name  on  it.     She  is  tickled  to  death  to  see  you 
heading  in  her  direction  because,  in  about  two  minu'tes,  she  will 
have  another  ticket,  good  for  ten  centavos,  to  stick  on  her  '  'tick- 
et" hairpin,  to  be  cashed  after  she  is  through  work  for  the  night. 
We  happened  to  be  on  hand  one  night  when  one  of  these  girls  lost 
her  tickets,  amounting  then  to  two  or  three  pesos.    She  certainly 
kicked  up  some  commotion,  but  the  tickets  were  not  found,  up  to 
the  time  we   left.      These  dancers  are  all  rigged  out — except  a 
very  few  who  wore  a  compromise  American  costume— regardless, 
in  the  picturesque  national    dress  of  gorgeous  semi-transparent 
cloth  which  has  been  in  style  since  1628.     They    are   barefooted 
except  for  slippers  whose  soles  and  high  heels  are  made  of  wood, 
and  these  they  hold  on  by  grasping  the  outer  edge  of  the    upper 
gently,  but  firmly,  between  their  third  and  little  toes!      Despite 
their  adeptness  in  hanging  onto  them  through  the  intricate  maz- 
es of  some  of  their  native  dances,  a  slipper  will  sometimes  fly  off, 
when  they  recover  it  by  dancing  around  to  it  and  deftly  slipping 
into  it '  'on  the  fly"  as  it  were!   We  sailors,  in  our  wanderings,  pick 
up  a  good  many  fancy  steps  and  different  ways  of  dancing  even 
such  commonly  known  dances  as  the  waltz  and  two-step,  but  nev- 
er once  did  we  rattle  any  of  these  girls.     They  can  glide,   texas 
tommy,  turkey  trot,  rag  or  dance  any  other  old  thing,    with  the 


42 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

best  of  us.  With  reference  to  these  girls  we  are  glad  to  record 
that  they  are  entirely  respectable  and  cannot  be  spoken  to,  when 
not  dancing,  unless  one  wishes  to  present  them  with  an  ice- 
cream or  a  glass  of  soda-water  between  dances. 

The  remainder  of  April,  and  the  first  nineteen  dnys  of 
May  were  devoted  to  drills  in  preparation  for  Spring  Target 
Practice.  During  this  time  we  ran  back  and  forth  between  Ma- 
nila and  Olongapo  a  great  many  times,  as  one  thing  or  another 
cropped  up  which  made  necessary  our  presence  at  one  of  those 
two  places. 

On  April  14th,  Captain  C.  H.  Harlow,  U.  S.  Navy,  was 
detached  from  command  of  the  California,  and  ordered  home  to 
be  placed  on  the  retired  list,  at  his  own  request,  from  April 
15th;  and  on  April  16th,  Captain  C.  M.  Fahs,  U.  S.  Navy,  was 
detached  from  his  duties  as  Commandant  of  the  Naval  Stations 
Olongapo  and  Cavite  to  temporary  command  of  the  California. 

On  April  18th  the  Albany  came  out  of  the  floating  dry 
dock  "Dewey",  and  the  California  went  in  to  have  the  crop  of 
hay  and  barnacles  scraped  off  her  underwater  hull.  All  hands 
turned  to  and  soon  completed  this  work,  after  which  her  hull 
was  given  a  couple  of  coats  of  paint  that  made  her  beautiful 
figure  look  like  a  yacht  on  a  holiday.  After  each  day's  work, 
all  who  wished  were  allowed  to  go  in  swimming  off  the  end  of 
the  dock — with  the  result  that  all  the  dopes  that  were  ever  heard 
of  as  cures  for  sunburn  w^ere  in  immediate  and  great  demand 
for  the  alleviation  of  that  form  of  pain. 

On  April  21st  all  flags  were  half-masted  in  honor  of  the 
"Titanic's"  dead.  This  awful  catastrophe  struck  us  like  a  bolt 
from  the  blue.  It  is  difficult  to  believe  that  it  was,  or  is,  pos- 
sible for  so  great  a  disaster,  of  such  a  character,  to  occur  under 
any  circumstances  we  are  able  to  imagine. 

We  left  the  dock  on  the  25th,  and  at  8:30  a.  m.  on  the 
26th  went  back  to  Manila,  anchoring  off  the  breakwater  at  1:50. 
As  soon  as  it  could  be  done,  the  first  liberty  party  was  landed 
on  the  beach — thus  starting  the  long-looked-forward  to  Manila 
liberty. 

As  a  number  of  questions  have  been   asked  concerning 


THE  PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS  45 

facts  in  connection  with  certain  historical  events  and  occur- 
rences in  the  Philippine  Islands,  we  will  endeavor,  briefly  to  out- 
line their  history  and  to  describe  some  of  the  objects  of  interest 
in  and  about  Manila.  The  data  and  dates  that  follow  are  mostly 
taken  from  an  official  guide  and  handbook  entitled  "The  Philip- 
pines, The  Land  of  Palm  and  Pine,"  prepared  by  John  R.  Ar- 
nold under  the  direction  of  Hon.  Charles  B.  Elliott,  Secretary  of 
Commerce  and  Police  of  the  Government  of  the  Philippine  Is- 
lands. They  are  therefore,  authentic,  and  may  be  used  to  settle 
all  bets! 

The  history  of  the  Philippines,  as  we  know  it,  began 
with  the  discovery  of  the  Archipelago,  when  Ferdinand  Magel- 
lan having  forced  his  way  accross  the  pathless  Pacific  in  his 
search  for  the  storied  wealth  of  the  Spice  Islands,  sighted  the 
coast  of  the  Island  of  Samar  on  March  16,  1521,  and  soon  after 
landed  on  a  nearby  island.  Several  times  during  the  next 
forty  years  voyages  were  undertaken  to  the  islands,  but  came  to 
nothing.  The  first  permanent  settlement  of  Spain  in  the  Philip- 
pines was  begun  on  April  27,  1565  in  Cebu,  by  an  expedition 
which  set  out  from  Mexico  in  1564  under  the  command  of  Mig- 
uel Lopez  de  Legaspi,  who  eventually  became  governor  of  the 
new  possession. 

Thus,  it  will  be  noted,  the  islands,  from  the  time  of  this 
expedition  until  the  loss  of  Spain's  American  possessions  were  a 
dependency  of  Mexico,  when  Mexico  was  a  colony,  rather  than 
of  the  mother  country  herself. 

The  hostility  of  the  Portuguese — who  at  that  time  claimed 
the  whole  Orient  as  their  own — caused  Legaspi  to  move  around 
several  times,  in  search  of  a  better  stronghold,  until  he  finally, 
in  1571,  settled  in  Manila  which  has  been  the  capital  of  the 
Philippines  ever  since. 

In  1572  Legaspi  died,  and  he  was  buried  in  the  August- 
inian  church  in  Manila. 

During  the  whole  time  of  Spanish  occupancy  the  Islands 
were  a  scene  of  plot  and  counterplot  for  possession  by  the  differ- 
ent world-powers  until  the  entrance  of  Dewey's  Fleet  into  Man- 
ila Bay  opened  the  last  act  of  the  drama  of  Spain's  sovereignty 


46  NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

in  the  Philippines. 

The  present  name  of  the  Philippine  Islands  was  given  by 
one  of  the  latter  Spanish  voyagers  Riiy  de  Lopez  de  Villalobos 
in  honor  of  King  Philip  II  of  Spain.  This  archipelago  is  over 
1150  miles  long  from  North  to  South  and  its  breadth  from  East 
to  West  nearly  700.  There  are,  altogether,  more  than  3000  dis- 
tinct islands  in  the  group,  though  many  of  these  are  but  small 
islets  or  mere  coral  rocks.  The  two  largest  are  Luzon  with  an 
area  of  about  40,000  and  Mindanao  with  an  area  of  about  30,000 
square  miles.  Nine  others  range  between  1000  and  10,000,  and 
about  three  hundred  and  fifty  others  have  more  than  one  square 
mile  of  surface. 

A  theory  held  by  many  is  that  this  archipelago  once  formed 
an  extension  of  the  Asiatic  continent.  This  is  born  out  by  the 
fact  that  the  surrounding  waters  are  generally  shallow  and  that 
real  sea  depths  are  found  only  at  a  distance  of  from  100  to  300 
miles  from  their  shores.  The  Islands  are  volcanic  in  structure, 
with  considerable  coral  growth,  and  all  are  mountainous,  the 
larger  ones  having  well-defined  ranges  running  mostly  in  a 
north-and-south  direction.  There  are  yet  about  a  dozen  active 
volcanos  in  the  islands,  of  which  the  most  important,  and  busi- 
est, are  May  on  and  Taal  in  Luzon  and  Canlaon  in  Negros. 
There  are  hundreds  of  extinct  craters  scattered  all  over  the  oth- 
er islands.  Earthquake  shocks  are  very  frequently  registered 
but  hardly  noticeable.     Destructive  quakes  are  very  rare. 

There  are  two  seasons,  the  rainy  and  the  dry.  The  first 
extends  from  November  to  May  and  the  other  from  June  to 
October.  It  is  not  unusual  however  for  rain  to  fall  during  the 
dry  season.  The  coolest  months  are  December,  January,  and 
Februrary,  the  hottest  March,  April,  and  May.  Typhoons  oc- 
cur during  the  height  of  the  rainy  season. 

In  Luzon  the  Cagayan,  Agno,  and  Pampagna,  and  in  Min- 
danoa  the  Aguson,  and  Cotabato  rivers,  wind  through  valleys 
of  great  fertility  capable  of  raising  immense  crops  and  support- 
ing great  numbers  of  people.  The  valleys  in  Luzon  are  just  be- 
ginning to  be  utilized,  while  those  in  Mindanao  have  hardly 
been  scratched. 


THE  PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS      47 

The  vegetation  of  the  islands  includes  everything  that  is 
grown  in  the  tropics,  with  pines,  live  oaks,  wild  raspberries  and 
dwarf  tomatoes  in  the  higher  altitudes.  The  ordinary  temper- 
ate zone  vegetables  and  fruits  can  be  raised  successfully  in  the 
mountains,  but  they  are  not  much  for  flavor. 

About  the  only  wild  animals  in  the  islands — in  order  of 
numbers — are  several  species  of  monkeys,  boar,  small  deer,  and, 
in  remote  regions  only,  two  or  three  kinds  of  wild  buffalo.  The 
carabao  is  a  domesticated  species  of  these  wild  buffalo,  and  is 
the  most  useful  beast  of  burden  in  the  Archipelago.  Goats, 
hogs,  and  chickens  are  the  mainstay  of  the  family  for  meat — the 
last  named  being  also  useful  for  cockfighting! 

Though  one  would  scarcely  believe  it  from  casual  obser- 
vation, there  are  many  species  of  birds  in  the  islands,  though 
few  are  found  of  any  one  species.  The  commonest  and  best 
known  is  the  hawkbill,  which  has  a  raucous  cry  and  is  the  sub- 
ject of  some  curious  native  superstitions. 

There  are  not  many  noxious  reptiles  and  insects  in  the 
Philippines.  The  largest  snake,  the  python  never  attacks  hu- 
man beings— though  the  sight  of  one  is  enough  to  scare  the  aver- 
age person  out  of  a  year's  growth— but  is  death  to  rats  and  mice; 
hence  they  are  kept  in  the  house,  as  are  cats  at  home,  living  in 
the  thatch  of  the  roofs.  The  most  dangerous  and  poisonous  snake 
is  a  small  green  rice  snake— so  keep  out  of  rice  paddies  unless 
your  limbs  are  protected  by  stout  boots.  Some  of  the  rivers 
have  crocodiles  in  them.  Lizards  of  many  kinds  are  very  com- 
mon and  inhabit  every  house  on  the  lowlands.  They  are  entirely 
harmless— in  fact  they  are  interesting  and  "cheerful"  as,  lying 
back  in  your  chair  at  ease,  you  watch  them  darting  about  on  the 
walls  and  ceilings  in  search  of  flies  and  mosquitoes.  They  are 
as  quick  as  a  flash  in  their  movements.  The  largest  lizard,  a 
kind  of  iguana  seen  sometimes  on  rocks  by  streams  or  lakes,  is 
as  ugly  as  sin  but  entirely  harmless.  These  are  the  ones  that 
make  a  noise  which  sounds  like  "Ah-koo,  Ah-koo."  Mosqui- 
toes are  plentiful  at  times,  in  the  lowlands,  but  are  seldom  as 
bothersome  as  those  at  home. 

The  island  waters  teem  with  many  vareities  of  fish  which 


48 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

form  a  large  part  of  the  native  diet. 

These  islands  take  the  prize  for  variety  of  types  of  the 
human  species.  It  is  said  that  the  aboriginal  people  were  a 
race  of  pigmy  blacks  of  whom  small  remnants  still  exist  under 
the  name  of  Aetas  or  Negritos  (little  Negros,)  and  after  whom 
the  island  of  Negros  is  named.  They  are  scattered  through  the 
islands,  but  the  average  traveler  is  not  apt  to  see  them.  If  one 
has  the  time  and  can  enlist  someone  who  has  been  among  them, 
they  may  be  found  in  the  Zambales  Mountains,  back  of  the 
town  of  Floridablanca,  in  Pampagna  Province,  and  on  Mount 
Mariveles  in  Bataan. 

Aside  from  these  Negritos  who  form  much  less  than  one 
per  cent  of  the  total  population,  now  about  8,000,000,  practic- 
ally the  whole  people  of  the  Philippines  belong  to  what  is  some- 
what vaguely  and  altogether  incorrectly  described  in  the  school 
geographies  as  the  "brown  or  Malay  race."  Without  going  too 
deeply  in  to  a  vexed  scientific  question,  it  may  be  said  that  eth- 
nologists now  generally  hold  that  all  the  brown  peoples  of 
the  vast  island  world  between  Asia,  Australia,  and  America  form 
a  series  of  very  mixed  stocks  in  which  three  important  races  are 
almost  indiscernibly  blended.  The  chief  elements  of  this  mixture 
are  first,  thenegritos;  second,  a  prehistoric  race  which  had  Cau- 
casion  features,  if  not  a  white  skin;  and  third,  a  Mongolian 
race  from  the  continent  of  Asia. 

Those  competent  to  judge  seem  to  think  that,  physically 
and  mentally  the  bulk  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  Philippine 
Islands  may  be  developed  into  useful  citizens  if  they  can  be 
taught  to  acquire  the  more  important  virtues  of  civilization 
without  its  parasitic  vices.  The  Mohammedan  Moros,  while 
the  brainiest  of  the  bunch,  are  still  pretty  hard  citizens,  not  yet 
thoroughly  subdued.  The  Filipinos,  properly  so  called — about 
seven-eighths  of  the  whole  population — are  generally  Christians, 
as  we  know  the  meaning  of  the  word,  and  they  are  civilized  al- 
ready to  a  degree  which  will  lead  them  over  the  road  to  a  des- 
tiny different  from  that  of  almost  any  other  Oriental  race 
These  are  the  people  to  whom  we  pin  our  faith  for  future  de- 
velopment into  capable  citizens,  and  to  this  end  are  we  bending 


THE  PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS  51 

all  our  educational  efforts.  That  these  efforts  are  meeting  with 
success  may  be  readily  observed  by  any  one  visiting  the  islands 
at  intervals  of  a  few  years. 

The  city  of  Manila  is  the  center  of  interest  to  navy  men 
who  visit  the  Philippines  because,  outside  of  Olongapo,  it  is  the 
one  liberty  port  that  the  big  ships  visit  most  frequently. 

It  is  the  point  where  most  of  us  get  our  first,  and  per- 
haps only  impression  of  these  islands,  and  at  that,  this  city  con- 
tains samples  of  almost  everything  that  can  be  seen  elsewhere  in 
the  islands. 

It  may  be  said  in  general  that  there  are  three  Manilas. 
First,  the  Manila  of  the  primitive  native  which,  with  its  nipa 
shacks,  carabaos,  and  quaint  fishing  boats,  exists  much  as  it  did 
three  centuries  and  a  half  ago  except  that  the  civilization  sur- 
rounding them  now  demands  more  clothing  and  more  work 
from  them.  Second,  there  is  the  Manila  of  the  sixteenth  and 
seventeenth  century  Spaniard — adventurer,  merchant,  and  cru- 
sader— who,  in  the  churches  and  convents,  the  w^alls  and  gates, 
and  the  half  Moorish  architecture,  has  left  his  ineffaceable 
marks  on  this,  the  oldest  of  the  European  settlements  in  the  East. 
Finally,  there  is  the  Americanized  Manila,  a  town  of  macadam- 
ized roads,  electrical  devices  of  all  kinds,  sew-ers,  and  steel  bridg- 
es. These  elements  comprize  the  Manila  of  today,  but  they  can- 
not always  remain  separate  and  what  the  result  of  their  fusion  will 
be  can  hardly  be  anticipated. 

Manila  does  not  offer  much  to  theman-o'-warsman  in  the 
way  of  mere  amusements.  They  may  be  summed  up  as  follows: 
The  dance  halls  at  Santa  Ana  and  Caloocan,  numbers  of  cinime- 
trographs, — and  plenty  of  saloons.  In  the  cool  months  there  is  a 
vaudeville  show,  and  sometimes  a  troupe  from  home  or  from  Aus- 
tralia puts  on  a  show  at  one  of  the  theatres.  Those  fond  of  riding, 
driving,  wheeling  or  automobiling  may  indulge  in  those  things 
to  their  heart's  content. 

When  it  comes  to  places  and  objects  of  historical  interest 
Manila  is  chuck  full  of  them.  Perhaps  the  most  interesting  of  all 
is  the  battlemented  wall  enclosing  the  original  Manila,  a  great 
piece  of  work  a  little  over  two  and  one  half-miles    in  circuit  and 


52 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

surrounding  a  tract  something  less  than  a  mile  long  and  a  hdf 
mile  wide.  This  wall  is  still  in  fine  shape.  Its  age  is  not  known 
exactly,  but  it  is  known  that  its  oldest  existing  portions  were  built 
before  the  end  of  the  sixteenth  century  and  it  has  been  added  to 
and  patched  up  almost  to  the  present  generation.  Parts  of  it  are 
from  20  to  30  feet  in  height  and  thickness  and,  considering  every- 
thing, it  is  about  the  best  example  of  a  medieval  wall  in  existence. 
It  is  pierced  by  several  gates  still  in  regular  use  as  entrances  and 
exits  and  it  has  been  battered  down,  in  one  place,  to  permit  the 
passage  of  trolley  cars.  In  the  casemates  behind  the  walls  may 
still  be  seen  some  of  the  pulleys,  windlasses  and  other  machinery 
with  which,  as  late  as  the  middle  of  the  nineteenth  century  the 
gates  were  closed  every  night  and  the  drawbridges  outside  raised. 
Since  our  occupation,  the  moat  around  the  outside  of  the  wall 
has  been  filled  and  parked,  as  it  had  become  a  pest  hole.  In  the 
wall,  at  intervals,  there  are  some  interesting  dungeons;  maga- 
zines, sentry  boxes,  etc. 

Fort  Santiago  is  the  oldest  part  of  the  walled  city  and 
probably  stands  nearly  on  the  site  of  the  native  fort  which  was 
carried  by  assault  by  the  Spaniards  in  1570.  Stories  are  told 
of  cells  found  here  below  the  level  of  the  river,  and  of  chambers 
filled  with  dislocated  skeletons  of  prisoners  who  had  been  put 
to  torture,  or  drowned  by  the  rising  tide,  but  no  such  places  are 
to  be  seen  now.  When  going  up  the  river  past  the  fort  we  have, 
however,  noticed  a  row  of  iron-barred  windows  just  above  the 
high-water  line  which  are  very  suggestive  in  appearance. 

In  the  walled  city  stands  the  building  of  the  University 
of  Santo  Tomas,  founded  in  1619,  which  is  the  oldest  institu- 
tion of  collegiate  rank  on  American  soil.  It  contains  a  fine 
museum  of  great  interest.  On  the  corner  of  Calle  Palacio  and 
Calle  Real  stands  the  oldest  structure  of  any  importance  in  Ma- 
nila, the  Augustinian  Church,  begun  in  1599.  The  above  are 
the  original  buildings  which  have  been  kept  in  repair.  Most 
other  buildings  in  Manila  while  old,  are  either  rebuilt  after  the 
earthquake,  or  only  parts  of  them  have  any  great  antiquity. 

Outside  the  walled  city  on  the  broad  expanse  of  park, 
partly  natural  and  partly  made  land,  facing  the  water  front  but 


THE  PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS     53 

on  the  inland  side,  is  the  most  famous  recreation  place  of  Ma- 
nila— the  Luneta.  This  oval  stretch  of  lawn  is  the  place  where, 
nearly  every  fine  evening,  the  music  of  the  splendid  band  of  the 
Philippine  Constabulary  or  that  of  some  military  organization 
combines  with  the  sea  breeze  and  the  gorgeous  sunset  behind 
the  top  of  Mt.  Mariveles  to  bring  together  a  crowd  so  varied  and 
brilliant  as  to  make  one  of  the  most  distinctively  picturesque 
sights  of  the  city.  Hundreds  of  carriages  draw  up  along  the 
curb  or  slowly  make  the  circuit  of  the  driveway,  while  thou- 
sands of  pedestrians  throng  the  walks  and  lawns.  It  is  a  gay  and 
cosmopolitan  gathering — Government  officials,  native  politicians, 
wealthy  Chinese  merchants,  Spaniards,  officers  of  the  Army  and 
Navy  accompanied  by  American  women  in  the  light  and  dainty 
gowns  of  the  Tropics,  and  Filipino  women  of  every  class  clad 
in  the  picturesque  national  dress  of  multi-colored  semi-trans- 
parent cloths  of  native  manufacture  which,  with  the  masses  of 
black  hair  piled  high  in  a  knot  on  their  heads  has  caused  one 
observer  to  describe  them  as  "jet-crowned  butterflies." 

The  IvUneta  will  in  a  few  months  be  moved  to  a  site 
nearer  the  water's  edge  on  the  reclaimed  land  and  thus  occupy 
practically  the  same  position  it  did,  with  relation  to  the  bay, 
before  all  the  filling  in  was  done. 

The  Manila  cemeteries  are  interesting — in  their  way — 
and  we  will  briefly  describe  Paco  Cemetery,  perhaps  the  best 
designed  and  best  preserved  of  them  all.  This  was  built  in 
1810.  There  are  two  circular  walls,  each  seven  or  eight  feet 
thick,  on  top  of  which  there  is  a  balustraded  terrace.  These 
walls  are  cut  up  into  niches,  in  three  tiers,  each  niche  large 
enough  to  contain  a  casket.  The  niches  number  1782,  of  which 
about  five  hundred,  in  separate  courts  at  the  back,  are  of  small 
size  for  children.  The  fronts  of  the  niches  are  closed  by  marble 
slabs  with  the  customary  inscriptions  on  them,  and  flower 
wreaths  and  burning  candles  are  frequently  seen  before  them. 
The  space  within  the  inner  wall  forms  a  small  but  beautiful 
park.  At  the  back,  immediately  opposite  the  gate,  is  a  small 
oval  chapel.  The  cemeteries  are  built  above  ground  in  this  way 
because  Manila  is  but  a  few  feet  above  water. 


54 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

It  seems  an  awful  desecration  to  modern  minds  that 
though  the  cemetery  is  limited  to  a  fixed  number  of  bodies  and 
is  now  over  a  century  old,  few  dates  on  the  slabs  reach  back 
more  than  six  years.  The  explanation  of  this  is  that  funds  for 
the  maintenance  of  the  cemetery  are  provided  by  the  rental  of 
niches,  whiah  rental  must  be  prepaid  every  five  years;  »o  that, 
if  as  is  apt  to  be  the  case  the  second  payment  is  not  at  once  paid, 
the  vault  is  opened,  the  remains  removed,  and  some  more  profit- 
able tenant  installed.  Formerly  the  bones  were  cast  into  a  char- 
nel  vault  back  of  the  chapel,  which  vault  is  still  in  existence, 
but  this  cavalier  practice  has  been  stopped.  Now  the  disinter- 
ments have  to  be  advertised  and  the  remains  are  reburied  in 
consecrated  ground. 

Aside  from  these  associations  the  cemeteries  are  of  artistic 
design — so  far  as  such  things  can  be — and  are  well  worth  a  visit 
because  so  different  from  anything  to  which  we  are  accustomed. 

It  was  from  Paco  Cemetery  that  the  bones  of  Dr.  Jose 
Rizal,  the  great  reformer,  were  removed  by  the  insurgents  during 
the  war  and  are  supposed  to  have  been  made  into  talismans. 

Among  other  sights  of  interest  may  be  mentioned  the  ci- 
gar factories,  fine  residence  districts,  the  Philippine  Museum, 
and  the  various  monuments  raised  in  memory  of  Magellan,  Le- 
gaspi,  and  others  of  the  famous  men  who  have  in  one  way  or 
another  been  intimately  connected  with  the  history  of  the  islands. 

On  May  18th  the  Commander-in-Chief  inspected  the  ships 
of  the  fleet  at  "Clear  ship  for  action."  Sunday  the  19th  was  a 
day  of  rest,  and  at  sunrise  on  May  the  20th,  our  Spring  target 
practice  was  commenced  by  the  Colorado  conducting  spotting 
practice.  The  different  forms  of  firing  were  carried  on  each 
day  without  hitch  or  interruption  until  the  evening  of  May 
25th,  when  the  South  Dakota  finished  the  practice  by  conduct- 
ing night  experimental  firing. 

On  Sunday  the  26th,  the  fleet  again  assembled  and  an- 
chored off  the  break-water  at  Manila,  and  liberty  was  once  more 
the  order  of  the  day  every  day  up  to  and  including  June  2nd. 

Beginning  on  June  5th  and  ending  on  the  morning  of 
Sunday,    June   9th,    the   fleet  went  through  the  annual  speed 


THE  PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS 57 

trials  and  standardization  runs.  The  Colorado  did  not  take  part 
in  these  because  she  had  already  been  ordered  to  return  to  her 
home  yard  for  certain  neccessary  repairs ;  and  though  the  South 
Dakota  started  out  bravely  she  had  to  drop  out  on  account  of  a 
breakdown.  This  left  the  California  to  finish  all  by  her  lone- 
some, which  she  did,  without  a  mishap  of  any  kind  occurring. 
In  fact,  the  results  of  the  trials  indicated  that  the  California  had 
made  somewhat  faster  time  to  the  mile  than  ever  before — which 
certainly  speaks  well  for  the  ship,  her  builders,  and  the  officers 
and  men  who  handle  her,  and  we  are  glad  to  be  able  to  hand  a 
boquet  to  that  particular  body  of  men  of  whom  one  hears  so 
little  nowadays  because  of  the  roar  made  by  the  men  behind  the 
guns — The  Engineer's  Force! 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  day  we  finished  these  runs,  June 
9th,  we  sent  all  our  short  timers  up  to  August  1st  to  the  Colo- 
rado, and  she  then  went  down  to  Cavite  to  coal  for  the  long  run 
home.  We  joined  her  the  next  day  and  took  on  a  cargo  of 
coal  too,  beginning  at  5:30,  and  while  we  were  in  the  midst  of 
this  operation — at  6:14  p.  m.  June  10th,  to  be  exact — our  good 
old  sister  ship  Colly  started  for  home  and  Mother.  She  passed 
us  at  quite  a  distance — too  far  off  to  recognize  any  one  about 
her  decks  without  the  aid  of  a  glass — slipping  quietly  away  into 
the  haze  of  a  cloudy  evening  until  she  seemed  more  like  a 
wraith  than  a  real  ship.  Once  more  the  band  played  the  old 
tunes  to  which  we  had  now  become  so  well  accustomed  to  list- 
ening on  the  departure  of  some  other  ship  for  the  promised 
land,  and  all  went  well  until  it  came  the  turn  of  "Home,  Sweet 
Home,"  when  some  one  in  authority  had  the  good  sense  to  have 
the  word  passed  to  the  bandmaster  that  he  could  dispense  with 
that  heart-breaker  on  this  occasion.  (One  of  our  captious  critics 
takes  the  liberty  of  calling  us  down  for  complaining  of  home- 
sickness, after  this  fashion:  "I  notice  that  the  coriespondent 
(to  "Our  Navy"  from  the  Pacific  Fleet)  writes  of  some  of  the 
men  being  sore  oppressed  because  they,  forsooth,  have  been 
away  from  the  States  for  two  whole  months.  Holy  Mackerel!!! 
Homesick  in  Honolulu!!!! — To  know  what  homesickness  is  and 
to  truly  appreciate  the  States  they  should   ramble   over  on   this 


58 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

rim  of  the  earth  among  the  exiles  of  the  Asiatic,  where  two 
months  is  the  time  it  takes  for  a  letter  to  be  answered,  where  it's 
almost  a  general  court-martial  offense  to  have  nostalgia  inside 
of  three  years,  where  the  Orpheum  is  a  hazy  dream  and  Market 
Street  merely  a  memory;  then  when  some  packet  points  her 
nose  toward  the  Golden  Gate  and  he's  left  behind  he  can  wish 
a  42  h.  p.,  6-cylinder  wish  to  be  aboard  her,  and  his  Adam's 
apple  feels  as  large  as  a  pumpkin."  We  are  pleased  to  know 
that  Brother  Pierce  appreciates  our  viewpoint  so  exactly — only 
his  is  somewhat  warped  and — like  ours' — entirely  selfish.  He 
overlooks  some,  to  us,  important  facts, — for  instance:  It  is  one 
thing  to  set  sail  from  foreninst  the  Ferry  Tower  with  a  complete 
knowledge  that — barring  accidents — one  will  not  gaze  again  on 
the  big  gold  hands  of  the  clock  which  indicate  the  approach  of 
the  hour  when  that  next  Market  street  libery  will  begin,  for 
three  whole  years  or  more.  It  is  quite  another  thing  for  one 
who  is  morally  certain  that  he  is  stationed  on  the  West  coast  of 
the  U.  S.,  quite  handy  to  home  and  friends  for  at  least  a  couple 
of  years,  to  be  sent  off  on  a  simple  little  pleasure-cruise  to  that 
so-beautiful  Honolulu — to  lie  there  for  two  months — then  to  re- 
ceive orders  to  return  to  the  nice  little  U.  S. — only  to  have 
those  orders  cancelled  and  have  to  remain  "across  the  street 
from  'Frisco'  "  for  another  two  months — then,  when  real  sail- 
ing orders  do  come,  to  find  that  they  take  us  out  to  ''ramble 
over  on  this  rim  of  the  Earth  among  the  exiles  of  the  Asiatic" 
another  several  months  instead  of  back  to  the  wilds  and  jungles 
of  tight  little  'Frisco.  Now,  Pierce,  dost  thou  honestly  blame 
us  for  our  "Adam's-apple"  stunts  as  we  watched  the  Maryland, 
West  Virginia,  and  Colorado  fade  away  one  after  the  other  for 
those  happy  hunting  grounds,  taking  with  them  tried  shipmates 
and  true,  while  the  bands  played  those  tunes  herein  before  enum- 
erated? Verily,  if  thou  dost,  then  is  thine  heart  of  adamant  ge- 
macht  and  yet  untouched  of  wiles  of  women!) 

However,  in  the  case  of  the  Colorado  there  was  a  silver 
lining  to  the  cloud  as  we  had  a  pretty  good  hunch  that  we  were 
soon  to  follow  her,  so  we  went  about  our  tasks  contentedly 
enough — with  hope  nailed  to  the  masthead. 


THE  PHILIPPINE  ISLANDS 61 

The  gradual  dissolution  of  our  fleet  reminded  us  of  an  old 
nursery  rhyme  and  on  mentioning  this  to  one  of  the  ship's  mi- 
nor poets  he  excitedly  ran  his  hand  through  his  thatch,  dashed 
off,  but  soon  returned  and  handed  us  the  following  delicate  bit 
of  sentiment: 

Five  stately  cruisers — tied  to  the  shore — 

The  MARYLAND  was  hustled  off 
And  then  there  were  four! 

Four  swift  cruisers— ready  to  go  to  sea — 
The  WEST  VIRGINIA  beat  it  home 
And  that  left  but  three! 

Three  "happy  homes" — sailed  o'er  the  ocean  blue- 

The  COLORADO  made  her  sneak 
Which  then  left  but  two! 

Two  sturdy  cruisers — hung  it  out  together 
And  started  for  the  States  themselves 
In  fairest  kind  of  weather. 

As  nothing  happened  to  this  twain 
Our  rhyme,  perforce,  is  done 
For  we  can't  wind  up  with  the  old  refrain — 
"And  then  there  was  none!" 

On  Wednesday  the  12th,  we  returned  to  Olongapo  where 
we  shifted  the  range  parties  every  day  or  two  so  that  all  might 
have  an  opportunity  to  finish  rifle  practice. 

Since  completion  of  target  practice  there  have  been  a 
number  of  changes  in  the  personnel  of  the  officers  of  the  fleet; 
some  went  home  in  the  Colorado,  others  were  transferred  from 
her  to  the  California,  South  Dakota  and  Glacier,  and  a  few  more 
were  shifted  from  one  to  another  of  those  vessels. 

Liberty  had  now  become  a  drug  on  the  market — like  too 
much  of  any  good  thing  it  had  begun  to  pall — as  far  as  Manila 
and  Olongapo  were  concerned,  at  any  rate.  We  had  become 
heartily  tired  of  running  a  ferry  line  between  those  two  ports. 
We  hankered  for  new  worlds  to  conquer.  And  at  last,  on  June 
16th  we  were  made  happy  by  the  information  that  we  would  leave 


62 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

for  the  States  on  the  26th,  to  arrive  there  about  the  middle  of 
August.  So,  on  Wednesday,  the  19th,  we  mosied  down  to  Ma- 
nila, for  the  last  time,  in  order  to  put  the  Cincinnati  and  the 
submarines  through  their  target  practice  paces,  and  while  we 
were  completing  this  task  we  at  such  times  as  were  convenient, 
coaled  and  provisioned  the  fleet  for  the  first  lap  of  the  long  voy- 
age. All  hands  began  to  show  a  lively  interest  in  existence, 
ceased  to  damn  the  climate,  made  final  liberties  and  purchases 
of  Philippine  curios  and,  with  everything  shipshape,  we  made 
our  getaway  on  Wednesday,  June  26th,  at  8: 50 p.  m.,  for  Woo- 
sung,  China. 


CHAPTER  III. 

CHINA 

Our  run  up  along  the  coast  of  Luzon,  Formosa,  and  Chi- 
na, was  uneventfully  smooth  and  pleasant,  and  gave  us  a  blessed 
relief  from  the  heat  of  Manila.  We  boomed  along  at  15  knots, 
which  speed  was  somewhat  accelerated  for  a  time  by  a  favorable 
current,  and  arrived  off  the  outer  Woosung  bar  in  the  Yang  Tse 
Kiang  on  the  evening  of  June  29th.  At  9:10  p.  m.,  we  stopped 
our  engines  long  enough  to  take  on  a  pilot,  then  went  on  up 
the  muddy  Yang  Tse  Kiang,  anchoring  off  the  mouth  of  the 
Woosung  early  in  the  morning  watch  of  the   30th. 

Liberty  started  that  day.  Owing  to  our  limited  stay  in 
this  port  it  had  to  be  so  arranged  that  each  man  on  board  could 
go  at  least  once  to  Shanghai.  Payday  was  advanced  a  few  days 
so  that  we  would  have  some  shot  in  our  lockers  with  which  to 
buy  the  silks  and  other  things  that  could  be  obtained  here  at  a 
more  reasonable  figure  than  at  any  other  port  we  were  scheduled 
to  stop. 

Ships  of  our  size  and  draft  could,  but  generally  do  not, 
go  up  the  Woosung  and  anchor  off  Shanghai,  in  the  basin,  a 
stone's  throw  from  the  bund.  Instead,  they  anchor  as  we  did 
off  the  entrance  to  the  river,  as  several  vessels  of  our  size  would 
so  fill  up  the  basin  as  to  seriously  hamper  the  movements  of  the 
enormous  merchant  marine.  Having  to  anchor  here  makes  it 
necessary  to  boat  it  a  couple  of  miles  from  ship  to  landing,  and 
then  take  a  train  for  the  run  of  ten  miles  from  Woosung  station 
to  Shanghai.  Talk  about  your  ''slow  trains  through  Arkansas' ' — 
those  Chinese  trains  are  the  limit!  They  are  interesting,  though 
to  anyone  who  has  not  before  seen  European  railroad  equipment. 
The  engines,  arrangements  for  the  accomodation  of  1st,  2nd,  and 
3rd  class  passengers,  coupling  systems  for  cars,  heat,  and  light, 
all  are  very  different  from  ours  and  yet  serve 'the  same  purpose. 

The  land  which  this  spur  line  from  Woosung  to  Shanghai 
traverses  is  most  fertile  and  is  a  part  of  one  of  the  best  agricultural 
districts  in  China — the  Delta  of  the  Yang  Tse  Kiang.  Peanuts 
and  rice  were  the  crops  most  in  evidence  until,  as  we  neared  the 


64 NINE  xMONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

environs  of  Shanghai,  the  landscape  was  dotted  with  many  small 
truck  farms. 

Along  this  route  we  also  saw — many  of  us  for  the  first  time 
— the  numerous  "graves"  which  thickly  dot  the  fields  in  the 
neighborhood  of  towns,  villages,  or  any  cluster  of  huts  where 
the  people  who  cultivate  the  land  congregate,  and  which  for  many 
years  had  much  to  do  with  preventing  the  building  of  railroads 
through  any  part  of  China.  The  Chinese  respect  and  venerate 
their  parents  while  living  and  revere  and  worship  the  memory 
of  their  ancestors  when  dead.  They  also  believe  that  the  dead 
still  use  food  after  death — hence,  in  each  casket  is  left  a  suitable 
orifice  through  which  food  may  be  thrust  convenient  for  the 
use  of  the  deceased.  This  custom  explains  in  a  measure  why 
"burial"  consists  in  merely  carrying  the  coffin  out  into  a  field 
and  setting  it  down  apparently  at  haphazard,  with  no  seeming 
choice  of  location  except  that  it  be  near  the  home  of  the  living. 
(This  is  not  really  the  case  as  various  local  conditions  govern 
the  place  where  each  casket  ts  to  be  left.)  A  result  of  this  cus- 
tom of  burial  is  that,  from  our  point  of  view,  each  patch  of 
ground  so  situated  is  encumbered,  and  its  area  for  cultivation 
much  lessened,  by  the  graves.  The  customs  of  ancestral  wor- 
ship require  that  the  father's  grave  be  carefully  preserved  in 
order  that  his  male  descendants  may  worship  before  it,  but  the 
graves  of  women,  unmarried  people  and  children  are  not  so  well 
made  or  cared  for,  and,  as  a  matter  of  fact  it  is  only  a  question 
of  time  before  they  all  fall  into  decay  and  become  obliberated. 
But  the  frequency  with  which  new  caskets  appear  is  startling, 
to  say  the  least,  and  until  the  dead  are  really  buried  in  places 
allotted  for  that  purpose  alone,  strangers  will  have  ample  oppor- 
tunity to  view  this  peculiar  feature  of  the  landscape. 

The  above  customs,  aided  by  "fung  shuy"  (broadly — 
superstition — anything  bad  or  to  be  feared),  were  principally 
instrumental  in  preventing  the  installation  of  railroads  for  a 
long  time,  but  all  obstacles  were  finally  overcome  by  appealing 
to  the  common  sense  of  the  people  and,  in  a  small  way,  to  their 
cupidity. 

Shanghai  means  "Upper  Sea"  and  the  city   is  known   to 


CHINA  67 


have  existed  in  the  year  249  B.C.  It  looks,  in  some  places,  as 
if  it  had  been  there  longer.  It  is  situated  on  a  great  bend  of 
the  Woosung  twelve  miles  from  its  junction  with  the  Vang  Tse 
Kiang. 

Its  foreign  population  is  small  compared  with  the  million 
or  more  natives.  While  scattered  over  a  large  area  as  to  resi- 
dence, the  foreign  population  handles  business  in  the  three  for- 
eign settlements  which  adjoin  each  other — French,  English  and 
American.  In  their  offices  is  handled  the  bulk  of  China's  enor- 
mous and  rapidly  increasing  commerce  with  the  world.  Steam- 
ers enter  and  leave  this  port  at  the  rate  of  20  or  30  or  more  a 
day,  and  nothing  offers  a  greater  illustration  of  the  difference 
between  foreign  and  Chinese  civilization  than  the  contrast  be- 
tween our  iron  steamships  and  the  wooden  junk  which  consti- 
tutes now,  as  it  did  1000  years  ago,  the  Chinaman's  method  of 
carrying  freight  over  seas. 

These  three  towns  within  a  town  have  all  the  modern 
conveniences  as  well  as  some  yet-remaining  ancient  inconven- 
iences. The  foreigners'  warehouses,  stores,  banks  and  resi- 
dences would  be  a  credit  to  New  York,  Paris  or  London.  The 
streets  are  well  paved  and  beautifully  kept.  They  have  clubs, 
race  courses,  tennis  courts,  theatres,  country  and  town  residen- 
ces,— in  fact  they  have  everything  of  the  best  that  civilization 
offers.  And  they  are  self -supporting — paying  for  their  luxuries 
and  comforts  with  the  money  they  have  earned  in  the  country 
in  which  they  have  cast  their  lot. 

In  obtaining  the  privilege  of  installing  electric  railways 
through  the  town,  and  suburbs,  of  Shanghai,  the  promoters  had 
to  overcome  an  obstacle  that  was  even  more  formidable  than 
that  encountered  by  the  steam  railway  people.  This  was  the 
opposition  of  the  jinrikisha  and  wheelbarrow  men,  whose  pocket- 
book  the  electric  cars  threatened.  So  many  thousands  of  Chi- 
nese obtain  their  livelihood  by  carrying  passengers  and  freight 
in  'ricshas  and  wheelbarrows — practically  the  only  method  of 
getting  about  except  on  shank's  mare — that  they  form  a  very 
powerful  element  of  opposition  to  anything  that  might  take 
away  from  them,  or  reduce,  this  means  of  earning  a  living.  The 


68 NINE  xMONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

installation  of  the  cars  seems  however  not  to  have  hurt  their 
business  to  any  great  extent  as,  for  short  hauls,  or  for  traveling 
where  the  cars  do  not  run,  they  are  still  the  only  available  con- 
veyances. It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  jinrikisha  was  in- 
vented by  an  American  missionary. 

Several  enterprising  firms  are  now  using  a  soft-cushioned, 
low-wheeled,  rubber-tyred  (pneumatic)  style  of  'ricsha  that  it 
is  a  pleasure  to  ride  in  when  compared  with  the  old-fashioned 
rigid,  high-wheeled,  steel-tyred  rattle-traps  of  which  thousands 
are  still  in  use. 

The  wheelbarrows — a  wheel  about  three  feet  in  diameter, 
made  of  wood,  with  a  seat  suspended  on  each  side  high  enough 
for  the  feet  of  the  passenger  to  clear  the  ground — are  not  much 
used  for  carrying  passengers  other  than  the  natives.  It  is  the 
principal  vehicle  for  carrying  freight  on  land  and,  heavy  and 
cumbersome  as  it  is,  enormous  loads  are  carried.  It  is  very 
slow  as  the  pushee-man  only  proceeds  at  a  walk.  In  some 
parts  of  China  that  wheelbarrow  is  most  esteemed  which 
makes  the  loudest  screech  as  the  wheel  goes  round.  This  noise 
is  said  to  be  very  good  fung  shuy.  Automobiles  are  now  very 
commonly  used  and  it  was  noticed  that  those  of  American  make 
were  as  plentiful  on  the  streets  as  any  others. 

"Shanghai",  to  one  who  has  only  casually  heard  of  it,  at 
once  suggests  the  old  red  rooster  scratching  for  his  harem  in 
Uncle's  barnyard.  To  those  who  have  seen  only  the  beauties  of 
that  city  it  brings  pleasant  recollections  of  good  times  spent  in 
the  parks,  bazaars  and  cafes;  in  autoing  or  ricshaing  over  its 
spotless  streets,  out  Bubbling  Well  Road  through  the  magnifi- 
cent suburbs  dotted  with  fine  residences,  or  in  winding  through 
the  narrow  streets  of  the  native  town  at  such  a  speed  as  to  pre- 
vent more  than  a  momentery  glimpse,  with  only  a  vague  im- 
pression, of  the  scenes  through  which  one  passes  on  the  way  to 
visit  same  native  temple  or  other  curious  sight  in  that  quarter. 
But  for  those  who  have  left  the  charming  European  settlements 
and  have  deliberately  investigated  the  squalid  misery  of  the  na- 
tives in  the  quarter  where  the  poorest  of  the  masses  are  herded 
together,  Shanghai  holds  other  and    less  pleasant  memories,   of 


CHINA  69 


the  beggars,  unfortunate,  loathsome  wretches;  and  of  the  un- 
sanitary conditions,  productive  of  foul  odors  which  arise  from 
streets  teeming  with  dust  and  filth,  and  crowded  with  a  cease- 
less flow  of  dirty,  wretched-appearing  coolies  clad  in  less  than  a 
nickle's  worth  of  clothing  (whatever  is  worn  out  or  worthless 
seems  to  be  thrown  out  into  the  street  along  with  the  offal  of 
the  household.)  It  is  all  sickening  and  fills  one  with  a  desire 
to  help  their  misery  while,  at  the  same  time,  one  realizes  his 
individual  inability  to  do  so.  And  yet,  withal,  these  to  us,  mis- 
erable wretches,  seem  to  be — in  fact  it  is  known  that  they  are — 
contented  with  their  sordid  struggle  for  life.  The  writer  has 
seen  poverty  in  many  parts  of  the  world,  but  never  before  so 
.helpless,  or  so  useless,  a  poverty.  "None  are  so  helpless  as 
they  who  will  not  help  themselves,"  seems  particularly  to  apply 
to  these.  It  is  undoubtedly  a  fact  that  a  realization  of  the  ex- 
istence of  conditions  hinted  at  above,  as  well  as  others  not 
touched  on  here  but  pretty  generally  known  to  the  world,  led 
those  who  now  govern  in  China  to  make  the  effort  which  has 
resulted  in  placing  them,  the  thinkers  of  the  country,  in  a  posi- 
tion to  uplift  the  millions  who  toil  incessantly  for  the  means  of 
barely  supporting  life  without  any  creature  comforts. 

On  the  morning  of  the  glorious  Fourth  as  the  liberty  party 
were  taking  their  seats  in  the  train  at  Woosung,  a  sad  accident 
occurred.  Just  before  the  train  leaves  Woosung  a  down  train 
pulls  in,  on  the  opposite  track,  from  Shanghai.  While  we  were 
waiting  to  start,  the  usual  crowd  of  beggars  lined  up  along  un- 
der the  windows  and  began  their  canvas  for  alms.  Amonj: 
them  were  many  children — forced  by  their  parents  to  beg.  One 
of  these  tiny  poverty-stricken  mites,  urged  on  by  his  excitement 
and  hope  of  gain,  failed  to  note  the  cries  of  warning  lettered  by 
those  who  noted  the  approach  of  the  down  train,  and  was  struck 
down  and  ground  to  pieces  before  our  eyes — leaving  in  our 
memories  the  sight  of  his  little  round  brown  dirty  face,  with  its 
bright  eyes  and  pleading,  ingratiating  smile — his  hand  out- 
stretched eagerly  to  clutch  the  hoped-for  silver  piece. 

It  is  said  that  many  of  the  beggars  deliberately  maim  and 
disfigure  themselves  in  order  to  pursue  their  chosen  calling,  but, 


70 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

God  knows,  there  are  enough  of  the  naturally  unfortunate  who 
must  beg  or  starve  and  who  do  both  most  of  the  time. 

In  spite  of  the  miserable  life  the  masses  lead  they  seem 
to  be  strong  and  healthy.  Their  dirty  appearance  is  apparently 
entirely  due  to  a  lack  of  the  use  of  just  plain  old  soap  and  water. 
They  consider  themselves  well  fed  when  they  can  get  enough 
fish  and  rice  to  eat.  Their  scraps  of  clothing  are  made  of  cot- 
ton— and  cotton  only — one  thickness  in  summer  and  quilted  in 
winter.  They  live  entirely  in  the  open  except  in  the  cities,  and 
there  the  houses  are  so  full  of  cracks  that  the  only  protection 
secured  is  from  rain.  It  is  said  that  the  Chinese  never  re- 
pair their  habitations,  just  go  ahead  and  live  in  them  as  long  as 
they  hold  together  and  sometimes  longer  than  that.  In 
the  coldest  weather  they  do  not  heat  their  houses,  but  put  on 
more  clothes.  It  is  astonishing  to  note  how  the  red  blood  courses 
beneath  their  red  or  brown  skin,  then  to  turn  to  one  of  our  own, 
comparatively  pasty-faced  shipmates  and  witness  the  difference. 

The  money-changers  who  hung  on  our  heels  taught  us  a 
trick  or  two  in  the  way  of  making  pennies  grow  into  dollars.  A 
five  dollar  goldpiece  was  worth — after  paying  the  rate  of  ex- 
change— 9.90  mexican  dollars.  A  Mexican  or  Chinese  dollar  is 
worth,  in  "small  money"  as  silver  change  in  ten  and  twenty 
cent  pieces  is  called,  about  1.20  Mexican  dollars,  so,  if  the  mon- 
ey-changers could  pursuade  us  to  give  them  a  five  dollar  gold- 
piece  for  ten  dollars  in  small  money,  then  take  it  to  the  ex- 
change and  have  it  changed  into  Mexican  dollars,  then  take 
them  to  another  exchange  and  have  the  Mexican  dollars  changed 
into  small  money,  they  could  make  nearly  two  dollars  "small 
money"  on  each  five  dollar  piece  by  this  practical  but  some- 
what complicated  process. 

Small-footed  women  are  not  commonly  seen  in  Shanghai, 
in  fact,  you  have  to  look  for  them  anywhere  nowadays  as  there 
are,  relatively,  but  few  left.  This  binding  of  the  feet  never  was 
a  fixed  custom  of  South  China  and  those  to  be  seen  are  mostly 
from  the  North  or  descendants  of  those  born  in  the  North.  This 
habit  has  not  ree-ulted  in  making  the  hands  and  feet  of  the  Chi- 
nese small  by  birth,  though  it  is  a  noticeable  fact  their  hands 


CHINA  71 


and  feet  are  small  and  shapely  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  their 
bodies.  The  small  feet  are  well  worth  seeing,  as  a  matter  of 
idle  curiosity. 

We  found  many  places  for,  but  not  many  kinds  of,  amuse- 
ment in  and  about  Shanghai.  One  can  enjoy  a  good  meal  at 
several  up-to-date  hotels  and  cafes,  in  some  of  the  latter  of  which 
the  tables  are  removed  from  the  dining  rooms  and  dancing  is  in- 
dulged in  after  dinner  is  over  for  the  evening.  At  some  of  the 
road  houses  may  be  found  summer  gardens  and  dancing.  These 
are  nice  places  to  get  together  a  crowd  and  go  for  an  evening's 
fun  just  among  yourselves. 

A  stroll  along  the  paths  in  the  water-front  park  on  the 
Bund,  or  seated  on  one  of  the  benches  where  a  good  view  of  the 
shipping  in  the  basin  may  be  had,  is  enjoyable  on  a  fine  evening 
when  the  band  is  playing.  Shanghai  has  a  very  good  band  com- 
posed of  Filipinos  and  called  "The  Town  Band."  It  is  support- 
ed by  the  town  and  numbers  50  pieces.  There  are  a  number  of 
moving  picture  shows  that  are  as  good  as  any,  and,  of  coruse,  sa- 
loons are  plentiful  enough  to  keep  one  from  thinking  he  is  in  a 
desert. 

Perhaps  the  be.st  amusement  of  all  is  shopping.  The  very 
sight  of  the  thousand  and  one  kinds  of  silks,  laces,  grass-cloths, 
and  of  the  articles  made  from  them,  or  combinations  of  them, 
arouses  a  desire  to  be  possessed  ()f  the  wealth  of  an  Astorbilt.  You 
neverrealize  just  how  many  friends  you  have  until  you  start  to 
buy  some  trifling  token  of  remembrance  for  them.  Aside  from 
the  mere  sight  of  these  things,  when  it  comes  to  an  actual  pur- 
chase the  practice  of  the  art  of  "jewing  down"  the  price  is  very 
good  diversion  in  itself.  There  zre  few  strictly  one-price  houses 
among  those  conducted  by  the  Chinese  and  Orientals,  and  after 
you  hav^e  beat  them  down  all  they  apparently  will  stand  for,  you 
pay  your  price  with  a  feeling  of  certainty  that  you  are  beat  after 
all.  It  stands  to  reason  that  you  are — unless  these  chaps  are  in 
business  only  for  their  health  and  the  pleasure  of  "giving  unto 
others."  Anyway,  we  will  take  a  chance  that  our  wife,  sweet- 
heart, mother  or  sister  (or  some  other  fellow's)  will  be  glad  to 
have  what  we  have  bought  for  her  as  a  souvenir  of  our  cruise  in 


72 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

the  Orient.  One  thing  those  who  visit  this  country  want  to 
bear  strictly  in  mind,  is  our  reference  to  Astorbilt,  above,  and 
begin  to  save  their  spare  shekels  now.  Not  one  of  us  but  re- 
gretted before  we  left  this  port  that  we  had  been  so  loose  with 
our  change  in  Honolulu  and  the  Philippines. 

On  the  morning  of  July  6th  at  11:30,  strictly-Chinese 
China  became  a  memory,  as  we  then  pulled  out  for  Tsingtau, 
Germany's  base  in  China.  Our  run  up  the  coast  was  pleasant 
and  we  anchored  off  Tsingtau  at  8:55  a.  m.,  on  the  8th.  Tsingtau 
was  leased  from  China  by  Germany  after  the  Japan-China  war 
in  1894,  and  Germany  may  well  be  proud  of  what  she  has  ac- 
complished in  the  time  she  has  been  in  possession,  as,  less  than 
twenty  years  ago,  the  spot  on  which  now  stands  this  beautiful 
and  flourishing  city,  was  practically  a  desert  waste.  The  back 
country  is  rich  in  building  stone,  clay  for  bricks,  coal  and  other 
minerals,  and  the  agricultural  possibilities  are  unsurpassed  in 
China. 

With  their  customary  methodical  precision  this  town  was 
laid  out  and  built  solidly  of  brick  and  stone;  the  waste  places 
were  planted  with  trees  and  vines  which  now.  cover  the  once 
bare  hills  with  a  verdant  and  luxurious  growth.  "Spotless 
Town"  realized  gives  one  who  has  not  seen  this  place  some 
faint  idea  of  the  clean  appearance  of  its  buildings  and  streets. 
Even  the  'ricsha  men  are  lined  up  every  morning  before  they 
start  out  after  fares,  and  examined  to  see  if  person,  clothing  and 
vehicle  are  clean  and  neat.  This  may  be  done  elsewhere  in  Chi- 
na, but  if  so,  we  do  not  know  it. 

Und,  ach  Himmel;  der  so  gutes  Bier  das  ist  hiergemacht! 
Never  did  suds  and  limburger  meet  on  better  terms  than  here. 
The  good  stuff  is  brewed  right  in  town,  though  there  is  plenty 
brought  over  from  the  Fatherland  for  those  who  prefer  that 
brew,  and  the  limburger  does  not  seem  to  be  the  worse  for  com- 
ing over  sea  in  cans, 

Several  of  the  vessels  of  the  German  fleet  were  lying  in 
the  roads.  S.  M.  S.  Scharnhorst,  Flagship  of  Vice  Admiral  v. 
Krosigk,  S.  M.  S.  Gneisenau,  S.  M.  S.  Nurnberg,  and  Emden, 
and  two  torpedo  boats,  the  Taku  and  S.90.      The  Scharnhorst 


CHINA  75 


and  Gncisenau  are  slightly  smaller  than  the  California  and 
South  Dakota;  the  Kmden  is  about  the  type  of  the  Albany,  and 
the  torpedo  boats  are  the  usual  type  of  that  class  of  vessel. 

Liberty  was  granted  from  1:30  p.  m.  to  midnight  every 
day  of  our  stay.  The  first  night,  Monday,  a  heavy  storm  arose 
which  prevented  the  landing  of  boats  from  the  ships,  so  we  had 
to  stay  ashore  all  night.  This  experience  demonstrated  con- 
clusively that  the  town  could  not  provide  sleeping  accomoda- 
tions for  any  great  number  of  men.  Many  of  us  slept  on  tables, 
chairs,  or  even  the  floor,  in  order  to  obtain  shelter  from  the  tor- 
rents of  rain. 

The  German  sailors  proved  to  be  ideal  comrades.  It  took 
no  time  at  all  for  the  boys  of  the  two  nations  to  meet  on  the 
most  cordial  terms.  It  was  astonishing  how  many  of  our  men 
could  talk  German  well  enough  to  get  on  famously  in  a  place 
where  even  the  'ricsha  men  speak  that  language.  There  must 
have  been  two  or  three  hundred  men  on  the  California,  alone, 
that  could  sprechen  Deutsch  fein! 

On  Tuesday  evening,  the  9th,  the  petty  officers  of  the 
Gneisenau  entertained  the  petty  officers  of  the  South  Dakota. 
On  Wednesday  evening,  the  10th,  the  petty  ofiicers  of  the 
Scharnhorst  entertained  the  petty  officers  of  the  California. 
On  this  occasion  the  forecastle  of  the  German  Flagship  was  en- 
closed, overhead  by  awnings  and  on  the  sides  by  curtains,  and 
the  interior  of  the  room  thus  made  was  gaily  decorated  with 
bunting  and  paper  lanterns.  Tables  were  ranged  fore-and-aft 
along  each  side  of  the  deck.  Beneath  the  muzzles  of  the  great 
guns  in  the  turret  was  stationed  the  ship's  orchestra  which  ren- 
dered during  the  evening  all  the  old  favorites  of  both  countries. 
Perhaps  the  song  most  popular  with  them  of  all  our  popular 
songs  was,  *Xieb  Mich  Und  Die  Welt  1st  Mein."  We  were  no 
sooner  seated  at  the  tables  than  our  glasses  were  filled  with 
foaming  nectar,  and  they  w^ere  not  allowed  to  become  empty 
thereafter.  There  was  something  doing  constantly.  If  the  or- 
chestra was  not  playing  or  the  splendid  male  chorus  of  forty  or 
fifty  voices  not  singing,  then  some  one  on  either  side  was  sure 
to  be  on  his  feet  with  an  appropriate  toast.     Toasts  were  drank 


76 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

standing,  to  our  President  and  their  Emperor.  They  sang  their 
national  anthem  gloriously,  while  we  managed  to  stumble 
through  ours — with  their  aid.  They  knew  it  better  than  most 
of  us.  Speeches  were  made  full  of  the  spirit  of  good  comrade- 
ship. Each  was  replied  to  in  kind  by  members  of  our  party. 
Heinie  Rakow,  George  von  Mohnlein,  Nick  Burmeister  and 
Doc  Zembsch  carried  off  the  honors  on  our  side  by  telling  them 
all  about  how  we  felt,  in  their  native  tongue.  One  of  the  Ger- 
man petty  officers  gave  us  a  real  interesting  talk,  in  English, 
about  the  time  he  had  at  San  Francisco  during  Portola  week. 
The  high  jinks  wound  up  at  midnight  and  when  we  returned  to 
the  ship  the  officer  of  the  deck  had  to  look  twice  to  be  sure  as 
to  whether  we  were  a  German  visiting  party  coming  alongside, 
or  our  own  party  returning,  as  about  half  of  us  wore  German 
hats.  On  the  following  evening,  July  11th,  we  of  the  California 
entertained  the  petty  officers  of  the  Scharnhorst  at  a  smoker  on 
our  forecastle,  and  on  Saturday  night  the  petty  officers  of  the 
South  Dakota  entertained  those  of  the  Gneisenau. 

While  we  were  thus  having  our  good  times,  the  officers 
of  the  two  fleets  were  not  neglecting  each  other.  On  the  9th 
the  Governor  received  at  the  Palace  and  entertained  our  officers 
at  tea  and  tennis,  and  then  a  concert  and  smoker  was  given 
them  at  the  Officers'  Service  Club.  On  the  10th  the  Governor 
entertained  at  dinner  in  honor  of  our  Commander-in-Chief,  at- 
tended by  the  staff  and  Captains  of  the  Pacific  Fleet,  the  Ger- 
man Staff  and  various  senior  officers,  and  the  American  Con- 
sul. On  the  11th  Vice  Admiral  v.  Krosigk  entertained  at  din- 
ner on  board  his  flagship,  which  was  attended  by  the  same 
guests  as  above.  On  the  12th  the  Tsingtau  Polo  Club  enter- 
tained the  officers  at  their  club  with  polo  games,  a  concert  and 
tea.  Preceeding  the  polo  games  the  base  ball  teams  of  the  Cal- 
ifornia and  South  Dakota  played  an  exhibition  game.  In  the 
evening  the  Commander-in-Chief  entertained  at  dinner  in  hon- 
or of  Vice  Admiral  v.  Krosigk  and  the  Governor,  attended  by 
the  Staff  and  Captains  of  the  Pacific  Fleet,  the  German  Staff  and 
various  senior  officers,  and  the  American  Consul. 

The  Commander-in-Chief,  Captains  and    Officers    of   the 


CHINA  77 


Pacific  Fleet  issued  invitations  for  an  afternoon  tea  and  inform- 
al dance  to  be  held  on  board  the  California  on  the  13th,  but  this 
affair  had  to  be  abandoned  on  the  morning  of  that  day  on  ac- 
count of  inclement  weather,  a  rough  sea  and  indications  of  an 
approaching  typhoon.  The  American  Consul  issued  invita- 
tions for  a  dinner  that  evening,  which  had  to  be  abandoned  for 
the  same  reasons.  The  officers'  messes  of  the  ships  of  both 
fleets  entertained  each  other  at  dinner  on  different  occasions,  and, 
take  it  all  around,  our  stay  in  Tsingtau  was  just  one  continual 
picnic. 

We  found  Tsingtau  a  very  good  place  to  buy  presents 
and  much  money  was  invested  there.  This  was  perhaps  the 
"quickest"  week  since  we  left  Honolulu,  and  it  didn't  seem 
possible  that  we  had  been  there  so  long  when,  on  Sunday  morn- 
ing, the  14th,  at  8:35  a.  m.,  we  picked  up  our  hooks  and  bore 
away  at  15  knots  for  Yokohama,  our  last  foreign  port  of  call  on 
the  way  home. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

JAPAN 

We  anchored  off  the  breakwater  at  Yokohama  at  11:45 
a.  m.,  July  17th,  and,  as  soon  as  it  could  be  brought  off,  we 
were  buried  under  an  avalanche  of  mail  which  put  all  hands  in 
fine  humor  to  begin  our  stay  in  Japan.  To  add  to  our  happi- 
ness and  contentment  we  were  given  a  half  month's  pay  and  the 
first  liberty  party  was  sent  ashore  promptly  at  4:00  p.  m. 

As  this  was  the  first  time  in  Japan  for  many  members  of  the 
crews  of  our  ships,  sightseeing  was  the  first  thing  to  be  attended 
to,  so  we  will  give  a  brief  description  of  many  of  the  things 
seen  by  some  or  all  of  us. 

As  Manila  is  representative  of  the  Philippines,  so  is  Yo- 
kohama representative  of  Japan  as  a  whole,  for  that  city  may 
be  said  to  be  like  a  box  containing  a  varied  assortment  of  sam- 
ples of  Japanese  urban  and  provincial  life,  as  to  this  metropolis 
come  emigrants  from  all  parts  of  the  country,  bringing  with 
them  their  home  customs,  manners,  and  dialects.  Because  of 
its  importance  as  a  port  of  departure  and  export,  much  of  every 
sort  of  the  artistic  and  industrial  products  of  the  empire  is 
brought  here,  so  that  nowhere  in  the  country  may  the  stranger 
have  a  better  opportunity  to  purchase  curios,  art  goods,  silks, 
or  anything  of  Japanese  manufacture.  For  these  reasons  too, 
an  exhaustive  examination  of  what  is  to  be  seen  in  Yokohama 
will  probably  better  repay  the  visitor — particularly  if  his  time  is 
limited — than  a  much  greater  expenditure  of  time  and  money 
spent  in  roaming  about  the  country  haphazard. 

As  to  statistics:  Yokohama  is  the  chief  commercial  port 
of  Japan  and  began  business  as  a  city  in  the  16th  century.  At 
present  its  population  is:  Native,  about  400,000;  European, 
about  3500;  and  Chinese,  about  7000.  On  the  bluff,  overlooking 
the  Bay  are  located  most  of  the  nicest  foreign  residences,  many 
consulates,  family  hotels,  etc.  Along  the  Bund  between  the 
breakwater  and  the  English  Hatoba  (wharf)  are  the  largest  ho- 
tels, and  two  blocks  back,  on  Main  Street,  are  the  principal  busi- 
ness houses,  foreign  and  Japanese  Banks. 


JAPAN  79 


The  city  is  divided  into  two  districts  called  Kwan-nai 
(Within  the  Barriers),  and  Kwan-gai  (Outside  the  Barriers), 
and  Kwan-gai  is  divided  into  Umechi  (Reclaimed  Grounds)  and 
Yamate  (The  Bluff).  In  the  Umechi  and  Kwan-nai  are  two 
streets — Honcho-dori  with  its  saloons,  and  Benten-dori  with  its 
shops — with  which  most  of  us  became  more  or  less  acquainted, 
as  we  usually  stopped  in  the  first  to  acquire  courage  to  attack 
the  shopkeepers  in  their  lairs  in  the  second.  About  the  city 
one  finds  many  Shinto  shrines.  On  Ise  hill  is  located  the  Tem- 
ple of  Fudo.  The  idol  of  Fudo  sits  on  a  rock  amid  flames  of 
fire,  having  a  two-edged  sword  in  the  right  hand  and  a  rope  in 
the  left.  It  cuts  asunder  vile  thoughts  with  the  sword,  purifies 
the  mind  with  fire,  ties  up  passions  with  the  rope  and  keeps 
them  completely  under  the  sway  of  reason.  (We  give  this  as 
an  example  of  the  meanings  these  different  shrines  have  for 
those  who  worship  before  them.)  At  the  right  of  this  temple  a 
red  idol  of  Binzuru  sits  calmly  waiting  to  confer  benefits.  Any 
person  possessing  an  infirmity  of  the  body  has  but  to  rub  the 
affected  part  and  the  corresponding  part  of  the  idol  alternately, 
when  the  good  Binzuru  is  supposed  to  take  the  disease  from  the 
body  to  itself  and  thus  heal  the  afflicted  one. 

Isezakicho  (Theatre Street)  would  put  most  world's  fair 
midways  to  shame  for  variety  of  amusement.  Jugglers,  acrobats, 
living  statues,  dancers  on  balls,  freak  birds  and  animals,  side 
shows,  shooting  alleys  where  bows  and  arrows  are  the  weapons 
with  which  one  may  prove  his  skill,  and  all  sorts  of  wheels  of  for- 
tune and  other  gambling  games  for  petty  prizes,  may  be  witnessed 
and  enjoyed  for  prices  ranging  from  3  to  15  sen  for  admission,  or 
a  try  at  one  of  the  games.  Wrestling  is  one  of  the  most  popular 
of  Japanese  sports,  held  in  high  esteem  by  all  ranks. 

An  interesting  place  to  visit — and  you  are  entirely  wel- 
come to  do  so — is  one  of  the  several  tea-firing  godowns.  Some 
are  run  by  machinery  and  others  by  hand .  There  are  also  sev- 
eral factories  where  fine-arts  good?  are  made — the  tea-sets,  lac- 
quer ware,  cloissonne,  and  other  things,  some  of  which  we  have 
bought — which  are  open  to  visitors. 

The  two  or  three  large  Japanese  bazaars,  as  well   as  each 


80 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

small  shop,  are  exhibits  in  themselves  of  all  articles  of  purely  Jap- 
anese type,  and  in  these  places  one  may  buy  any  number  of  little 
things  that  are  really  illustrative  of  what  the  Japs  use  in  every- 
day life  as  necessities  of  that  life. 

The  theatres  offer  a  sort  of  diversion  which,  personally,  we 
never  quite  dared  to  tackle.  They  are  open  from  a  little  before 
10  a.  m.  to  about  9  a.  m.  and  meals  may  be  brought  in  if  you  want 
to  sit  out  the  session. 

In  the  U.  S.  Naval  Hospital  is  an  ancient  mound  which  is 
known  to  be  the  tomb  of  some  of  the  daimyo  who  fled  from  Kam- 
akura,  when  it  was  over-run  by  the  army  of  Nitta  Yoshisada  in 
1333,  and  finally  settled  on  that  spot.  There  were  three  of  these 
tombs  on  the  Bluff  until  Yokohama  was  opened  to  foreign  trade, 
when  two  of  them  were  levelled  to  the  ground.  In  these  two  were 
found  skeletons,  armor,  weapons,  and  earthen  statues.  It  used 
to  be  the  custom  in  ancient  times  to  bury  these  earthen  statues 
of  servitors  with  a  noble  when  he  died. 

Most  of  us  climbed  the  Hundred  Steps  which  lead  from  the 
end  of  Motomachi  to  the  tea  house  '  'Fujita' '  at  their  top.  This  is 
the  oldest  tea  house  in  Yokohama  and  the  only  one  where  ladies 
may  properly  go  with  gentlemen.  The  glorious  snow-clad  peak 
of  Fujiyama,  the  sacred  mountain  of  Japan,  may  be  seen  from 
here  in  clear  weather,  and  a  fine  view  is  obtained  of  the  city  at 
your  feet.  A  cup  of  tea,  a  glass  of  wine,  or  other  light  refresh- 
ments will  be  served  here  if  requested,  and  one  is  always  con- 
tented to  sit  awhile  and  rest  after  the  steep  climb  before  start- 
ing on  the  return.  Many  of  the  celebrated  people  of  the  world 
have  climbed  these  steps  before  us,  of  whom  the  first  stranger  to 
do  so  was  our  own  Commodore  Perry.  Fujita  is  open  from 
morning  until  11:30  p.  m.,  and  the  gentle  O  Uchi  San,  made 
famous  in  song  by  Lieutenant  Bostwick,  U.  S.  N.,  gracefully 
presides  over  the  house;  providing  Japanese  dinners,  music,  and 
dancing  of  geisha,  for  those  who  wish  them.  O  Uchi  San,  who 
was  a  dainty  little  maiden  when  Lieutenant  Bostwick  wrote  his 
song,  is  now  a  charming  matron  who  has  seen  perhaps  some 
thirty  summers,  and  she  causes  one  to  feel  that  he  is  an  hon- 
ored guest,  as  she  graciously  calls    his  attention   to   the  record 


Daibutsu 


JAPAN  83 


books  extending  back  for  many  years  and  containing  thousands 
of  cards  of  famous  people;  or  quaintly  describes  the  other  ob- 
jects of  historical  interest  with  which  her  rooms  are  decorated. 
Among  the  cards  in  those  record  books  are  to  be  found  hun- 
dreds written  by  our  naval  officers,  and  many  of  those  who  wrote 
them,  now  live  only  in  our  memories.  In  the  summer  of  1881  a 
Japanese  circus  man  and  his  daughter  rode  up  the  Hundred 
Steps  on  horseback,  and  the  father  rode  down  standing  on  his 
head  on  the  horse  and  holding  an  open  fan  in  his  toes! 

The  Japanese  either  cremate  their  dead,  or  bury  them 
very  deeply  in  the  ground.  In  a  cemetery,  the  tombs  are  very 
close  to  one  another.  This  is  because  most  of  the  dead  are  in- 
terred in  the  sitting  posture  and  consequently  the  coffin  is  about 
28  inches  square  and  four  feet  high,  or  perhaps  a  large  tub  of 
about  the  same  dimensions  is  used.  For  seven  weeks  after 
burial  the  children  and  other  relatives  visit  every  day  the  new 
grave  which  is  decorated  with  flowers  and  lanterns,  and  offer 
flowers,  fruits,  cakes  and  water,  and  burn  incense. 

A  trip  out  to  Kamakura  to  see  the  statue  of  the  great 
Buddha  or  Daibutsu  is  well  worth  while.  This  great  image  was 
made  of  wood  at  first  and  in  1252  the  present  image  was  cast. 
Some  of  its  dimensions  are: 

Feet  Inches 

Height  49  7 

Circumference  97  2/^ 

Length  of  face  8  5.15 

Length  of  eye  3  11.6 

Length  of  ear  6  6.54 

Circumference  of  thumb  about  6  feet. 
It  is  said  the  eyes  are  of  pure  gold  and  the  silver  boss  (a 
round  white  knob  in  the  center  of  its  forehead)  weighs  thirty 
pounds.  It  is  a  most  wonderful  figure  and  looks  most  lifelike 
and  natural.  Anyone  having  a  collection  of  stereoscope  pictures 
of  Japan  is  pretty  sure  to  have  a  picture  of  Daibutsu  and  it  will 
be  well  worth  while  to  break  it  out  and  have  another  look  at 
it,  having  the  above  dimensions  in  mind.  Two  or  three  of  the 
fat  men  on  board  realize,  since  having  seen  this  image,  what  the 


84 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE " 

Japanese  mean  when  they  call  one  "Daibutsu". 

While,  of  course,  the  Japanese  do  not  observe  Sunday  as 
a  day  of  rest  as  we  do,  yet  they  have  plenty  of  days  each  month 
that  may  be  so  used  if  they  care  to — there  are  ten  holidays  in 
January,  and  not  less  than  two  in  any  month. 

The  trip  to  Nikko  should  be  made  if  one  has  time,  as  the 
temples,  sacred  bridge  and  tombs  are  exceptionally  fine  and  the 
scenery  is  unsurpassed  in  Japan. 

A  great  many  of  us  made  flying  trips  to  Tokyo,  during 
which  we  saw  some  of  the  sights  of  that  great  city.  The  Gov- 
ernment Buildings,  the  Emperor's  Palace,  and  the  palace  grounds, 
the  great  temples,  and  the  magnificent  parks  and  their  contents 
are  about  all  that  may  be  seen  there  and  not  in  Yokohama.  The 
Ginza,  or  main  shopping  street,  is  of  course  much  larger  and  has 
bigger  stores  and  more  variety  but  the  prices  are  about  the  same. 
InUeno  Park,  the  heights  of  which  command  a  fine  view  of  the 
north-eastern  part  of  the  city,  there  are  a  number  of  places  which 
take  time  to  thoroughly  explore,  the  Imperial  Museum,  Fine  Arts 
Gallery,  Zoological  Garden,  National  lyibrary,  and  any  number 
of  shrines,  temples,  bronze  statues,  etc  . 

In  Shiba  Park  are  located  the  Mausoleum  of  the  Toku- 
gawa  Shogun,  and  the  Tokyo  Bazaar. 

Asakusa  Park  is  a  popular  resort  in  which  the  celebrated 
Temple  of  Kannon  stands,  and  there  are  many  shows  like  those 
already  described  in  Yokohama.  The  first  time  we  were  here, 
nearly  ten  years  ago,  we  were  much  surprised  to  find  a  pano- 
ramic view  of  the  Battle  of  Gettysburg  on  this  midway.  Wheth- 
er it  is  still  there  we  did  not  discover.  The  aquarium  is  in  this 
park  too,  and  is  very  interesting,  containing  more  different  col- 
ored fishes  than  we  had  ever  seen  before.  The  Japanese  breed 
color  in  fishes  as  w^ell  as  flowers.  While  wandering  around  the 
Japanese  cities  it  is  impossible  not  to  notice  the  many  ways  in 
which  these  people  express  their  love  for  flowers.  You  see  it  in 
everything.  Their  favorites  seem  to  be  the  chrysanthemum, 
wistaria,  and  the  cherry  blossom,  and  after  them,  any  flower. 
These  three,  and  roses,  you  find  embroidered  on  clothing,  paint- 
ed on  fans  and  anything  made  of  cloth  or  paper,   and  inlaid,   or 


JAPAN 


85 


painted  on  and  baked  into  lacguer — and  china-ware. 

Below  we  give  some  contrasts  in  the  methods  of  doing 
things  in  Japan  and  America  which  appear  equally  topsy-turvy 
when  seen  from  their  view-point  or  from  ours: 


IN  AMERICA 
We  eat  with  knives  and  forks 
Our  food  is  cut  up  on  the  table 
We  wear  shoes 
We  write  with  pen  and  ink 
We  wear  hats 

We  kiss  each  other 

We  have  smoking  cars 

Our  theatre  tickets  are  small, 

of  pasteboard 
We  carry  babies  in  arms 
We  shake  hands 
We  turn  to  the  right 
Our  clothes  fit  closely 
We  sit  on  chairs 
We  write  across  the  page 
We  sleep  on  raised  beds 
We  wear  shoes  in  the  house 
We  use  horses 


IN  JAPAN 
They  with  chopsticks 
Their 's  before  being  brought  in 
They  wear  wooden  sandals 
They  with  brush  and  paint 
They,    the  men   only   recently, 

and  the  women  not  yet 
They  never  do 
They  smoke  in  all  cars 
Theirs'  are  large  wooden  panels 


They  on  their  backs 
They  fold  their  hands  and  bow 
They  to  the  left 
Theirs'  loosely 
They  on  the  floor 
They  up  and  down 
They  on  mattresses  on  the  floor 
They  take  them  off 
They  men 

Speaking  of  the  custom  of  the  Japanese  of  taking  off 
their  shoes  on  entering  the  house  reminds  us  of  a  story  told 
about  the  first  railroad  in  Japan.  An  old  couple  after  thinking 
it  over  finally  concluded  to  take  a  ride  in  the  train  and  see 
what  it  was  like.  As  they  entered  the  train,  they  quite  natur- 
ally stepped  out  of  their  shoes,  leaving  them  on  the  station  plat- 
form. When  they  arrived  at  their  destination  and  the  guard 
opened  the  door,  they  unconsciously,  as  a  matter  of  habit, 
reached  out  with  their  feet  for  the  shoes  that  should  be  just  un- 
der the  door  of  the  car!  Needless  to  say,  their  shoes  were  pa- 
tiently waiting  for  them  on  the  station  platform  they  had  left. 

Many  more  contrasts  might  be  noted  but  the  above  are 
suflficient  to  show  what  unexpected  things  one  runs  up   against 


86 NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

at  every  turn.     Their  "actresses"  used  to  be  all  men   made  up 
for  female  parts,  but  now  they  have  a  new  school  of  real  ones. 

In  connection  with  our  visit  first  to  Hawaii  and  later  to 
Japan,  it  is  interesting  to  note  that  on  June  3rd  300  Hawaiian- 
born  Japanese  visited  Yokohama,  most  of  whom  had  never  be- 
fore seen  Japan.  The  local  papers  described  at  length  the  cour- 
tesies extended  them  and  the  entertainments  given  in  their  honor. 

While  strolling  along  the  Ginza  in  Tokyo  we  noticed  the 
ad  of  a  firm  which  stated  that  it  had  been  established  in  1655. 
That  is  a  long  time  to  do  business  under  one  name  and  in  one 
place. 

A  sign  of  the  times  that  would  make  Edward  Hellamy 
sit  up  and  take  notice  is  the  conspicuous  advertising  of  the 
"imperial  Japanese  Government  Tobacco- Monopoly  Bureau." 
The  government  controls  the  sale  of  tobacco,  as  well  as  the 
railroads,  telegraph  lines,  and  some  other  things.  They  only 
cleared  $9,000,000  on  the  railroads  last  year,  but  that  probably 
helped  some.  It  seems  funny  that  such  conditions  should  exist 
in  an  empire  and  not  in  a  republic. 

Every  day  during  the  time  the  meal  pennant  flew  the 
port  side  of  the  quarter-deck  was  lined,  inboard  and  outboard, 
with  venders  of  curios,  post-cards,  silks,  metal  wares,  tea-sets 
and  other  useful  junk.  We  spent  all  our  small  change  in  bar- 
gaining with  them  and  besides  the  stuff  we  bought  we  gained 
considerable  experience  in  dickering. 

An  illustration  of  the  operation  of  separating  a  tea-set 
from  a  Jap  might  be  interesting:  After  sizing  up  the  collection 
offered  for  our  selection  and  deciding  on  the  one  we  wanted  to 
buy  a  conversation  would  occur  something  like:  "How  much 
that  set,  John? 'i  pointing  to  it. 

"That  set  most  expensive — 25  yen,"  "John"  would  re- 
ply.    Then  the  duologue  would  acquire  a  rapid  fire  nature: 

"Give  you  four  yen." 

"No,"  short  and  sharp,  "Have  got  other  set  more  cheap- 
er— you  look  them . ' ' 

All  right,  no  wantchee  other  set,"   and   start   to   walk 
away. 


JAPAN  87 


Please,  master,  how  much  you  give?" 

Four  yen." 

No  can  do — not  make  expense." 

Four  yen." 

Don'  speaky  foolishy.     Give  me  six-yen-hifty,  please." 

Four  yen." 

You  tell  plenty  friends  buy  of  me  and  no  tell  price  you 
pay,  all  right,"  very  confidentially,  and  the  set  is  yours.  And, 
as  always,  you  are  again  sure  that  you  have  been  stung.  And 
so  it  goes  all  down  the  line.  One  man  will  pay  *-ixteen  yen  for 
what  another  only  pays  one,  two,  or  three  yen.  Ashore  the 
methods  were  practically  the  same,  only  the  asking  price  was 
generally  lower,  the  quality  of  the  goods  better,  and  the  beating 
down  in  price  less.  There  are  some  well-established  firms  of 
good  reputation  who  do  a  strictly  legitimate  business  and  cater 
especially  to  the  tourist  trade.  They  will  give  from  ten  to 
thirty-five  percent  off  on  large  purchases  for  cash. 

From  all  reports,  at  least  so  far  as  we  have  talked  with 
any  of  the  men  who  tried  them,  there  is  one  thing  in  Japan  that 
none  of  us  could  stand;  the  Japanese  meal,  pure  and  unadulter- 
ated by  any  European  mixture.  The  manner  of  serving,  and 
the  meal  itself  were  interesting  to  look  at,  but  oh!  the  taste  of 
things.  You  squat  on  the  floor  and  a  small  table  is  placed  be- 
fore you.  Course  after  course  of  fish,  meats,  and  vegetables 
are  brought  in,  served  in  tiny  dishes,  and  everything  either  to 
be  drunk,  or  eaten  with  chopsticks  .  Their  ideas  of  flavor  and 
smell  are  nothing  like  ours. 

One  dish,  fried  fish  with  plain  boiled  rice,  is  always  good 
and  may  be  depended  on  at  a  pinch  for  something  to  eat,  at  any 
time.  Pink,  brown,  or  white,  chopped  up  raw  fish,  was  never 
tasty,  somehow  or  other,  and  we  could  only  pretend  to  enjoy, 
and,  as  soon  as  the  novelty  wore  off,  pay  our  bill  and  withdraw 
as  gracefully  as  possible. 


CHAPTER  V. 

HOME  AGAIN 

At  9:04  a.  m.,  July  24,  the  California  and  South  Dakota, 
in  company,  turned  their  noses  toward  Honolulu — the  Glacier 
having  preceded  us  on  the  21st.  We  started  off  at  our  usual 
15  knot  clip,  expecting  to  make  Honolulu  by  the  2nd  of  August 
at  the  latest,  but,  at  12:51  a.  m.  on  the  26th  of  July  the  South 
Dakota's  starboard  propeller  shaft  broke,  outside  the  hull,  and 
this  misfortune  made  it  necessary  for  us  to  reduce  our  speed  so 
that  from  that  time  on  we  were  only  able  to  make  ten  or  eleven 
knots  good  over  the  ground.  We  bucked  a  moderate  head  wind 
and  sea  which  were  heaviest  in  the  neighborhood  of,  and  while 
crossing  the  180th  meridian  of  Longitude.  Here  we  picked  up 
the  day  we  had  lost  going  out  to  the  Orient.  This  gave  us  two 
Wednesdays  in  one  week  (as  it  happened),  two  31sts  of  July, 
and  thirty-two  days  in  one  month!  We  were  mighty  glad  to 
get  that  day  back  again — it  made  us  feel  more  comfortable  in 
our  minds  somehow.  On  the  2nd  Wednesday,  the  last  31st 
of  July,  the  sea  became  much  smoother  and  remained  so  until 
our  arrival  off  Honolulu,  on  Sunday,  August  4th.  On  the  morn- 
ing of  that  day,  while  yet  about  40  miles  from  Honolulu,  we 
had  a  rather  interesting  and  exciting  experience.  An  insane 
patient  in  some  unaccountable  manner  succeeded  in  eluding  the 
vigilance  of  his  guards,  rushed  up  on  the  forecastle  deck  and 
leaped  over  the  side  into  the  sea.  This  occurred  at  8:13.  In- 
stantly, both  engines  were  stopped,  a  signal  gun  was  fired,  the 
breakdown  flag  was  half-masted,  and  both  starboard  life  buoys 
were  dropped.  At  8:14  both  engines  were  backed  full  speed, 
stopped,  and  at  8:15  the  port  lifeboat  was  manned,  dropped  into 
the  water,  and  on  its  way  to  tjie  man  who,  meanwhile,  had  grab- 
bed a  life  buoy  and  was  calmly  waiting  rescue.  He  was  picked 
up  at  8:18,  none  the  worse  for  his  dip.  Both  life-buoys  were  re- 
covered and  the  lifeboat  hooked  on  ready  to  hoist  at  8:27,  and  we 
got  underway  again  at  8:28.  Fortunately  for  the  young  man 
his  going  overboard  was  immediately  noted;  the  weather  con- 
ditions were  ideal;  the  sea  was  warm  and  just  ruffled  by  a  bresze, 


HOME  AGAIN  89 


and  the  means  for  his  rescue  were  at  once  provided. 

We  anchored  outside  off  Honolulu  at  60:30  p.  m.  for  the 
night.  Twelve  welcome  bags  of  mail  were  received  via  the 
Glacier,  the  Commanding  Officer  of  which  ship  had  them  ready 
and  waiting  for  us,  and  by  the  time  it  was  distributed  and  read 
we  were  ready  to  turn  in.  At  7  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the 
5th  the  California  went  into  the  harbor  and  alongside  Naval 
Dock  No.  1,  and  at  8:30  we  started  the  coal,  which  was  to  take 
us  home,  into  the  bunkers.  Coaling  was  finished  at  6  p.  m-. , 
and  during  the  day  we  also  took  on  a  quantity  of  much-needed 
stores. 

Our  short  stay  in  Honolulu  was  a  disappointment  to  our 
friends  there.  It  was  also  a  surprise,  as  the  papers  had  an- 
nounced that  we  were  to  stay  anywhere  from  5  days  to  3  weeks, 
depending  on  the  largeness  of  the  imaginations  possessed  by  the 
editors  thereof!  We,  however,  were  not  anxious  to  stay  any 
longer  than  necessary,  with  home  attractions  looming  up  in  the 
very  near  future.  So  it  was  "in  again,  out  again,  off  again, 
fleet"  at  about  as  fast  a  gait  as  we  could  move.  An  opportun- 
ity was  given  to  those  who  had  relatives  to  visit,  or  any  ur- 
gent persone)  affairs  to  attend  to  on  shore,  to  go  ashore  over 
night,  but  it  was  not  practicable  to  grant  general  liberty,  under 
the  circumstances,  to  all  the  men  of  the  fleet. 

At  4:00  p.  m.  on  the  6th,  having  finished  taking  on 
stores,  and  said  the  last  "Goodbyes"  to  friends,  we  went  out- 
side and  anchored  near  the  South  Dakota  while  waiting  for  the 
last  mail  trips  to  be  made.  The  launches  that  made  these  trips 
were  hoisted  in  soon  after  five  o'clock  and  at  5:26  we  got  un- 
derway for  the  last  long  run  which  was  to  end  by  our  entrance 
into  San  Francisco  Bay  through  the  portals  of  the  Golden  Gate. 

The  voyage  from  Honolulu  to  San  Francisco  was  une- 
ventful. A  steady  breeze  dashed  a  bucketfull  of  salt  spray  over 
the  forecastle  now  and  then  all  the  way  over,  and,  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  13th  it  was  deemed  cool  enough  to  warrant  our  shift- 
ing into  blues.  This  was  a  great  relief  as  the  constant  wearing 
of  white  uniform  involves  much  extra  effort  to  keep  clean  and 
neat,  overwhelms  the  laundrymen,  and  swamps  the  pocketbooks 


90 NINK  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

of  laundry  patrons. 

We  sailed  into  San  Francisco  Bay  at  1:00  p.  m.  on  Au- 
gust 15th  and  came  to  anchor  off  Quarantine  in  order  that  we 
might  obtain  pratique  and  give  the  customs  officials  a  chance  to 
earn  their  wages.  Arrangements  had  been  made  by  wireless 
and  we  took  on,  while  lying  here,  stores  and  ammunition  and 
men  to  fill  vacancies  caused  by  the  discharge  or  transfer  of  those 
whose  enlistment  had  expired  or  soon  would.  Our  first  attempt 
at  anchoring  was  disastrous  as  the  starboard  anchor  ran  out  and 
snapped  off  at  the  bitter  end.  We  tried  for  two  days  to  recover 
it,  but  gave  it  up  and  left  for  San  Diego  on  the  17th,  after  coal- 
ing on  the  16th. 

Meanwhile,  the  South  Dakota  had  gone  on  up  to  the 
Mare  Island  yard  where  she  was  to  go  into  dock  and  have  her 
propeller  shaft  replaced . 

Having  come  safely  back  from  our  voyage  to  lands  where 
we  had  learned  much  from  the  strange  and  curious  sights  seen 
there,  and  having  thoroughly  enjoyed  that  mixture  of  work  and 
play  which  keeps  Jack  from  "becoming  a  dull  boy"  we  were 
now  ready  to  go  through  the  Autumn  Target  Practice  off  San 
Diego,  with  snap  and  vigor,  in  order  that  we  might  get  to  our 
home  yard  and  start  off  on  our  leave  of  absence  while  the  ship 
undergoes  necessary  repairs. 

It  is  while  on  leave  that  we  have  opportunity  to  tell 
the  folks  all  about  what  a  lot  of  fun  may  be  had  on  a  cruise,  in 
time  of  peace,  on  one  of  Uncle  Sam's  big  home  defenders,  and 
it  is  then  that  they  are  able  to  size  us  up  and  appreciate  how  we 
have  "improved"  since  we  joined  the  Navy. 

After  all,  "Be  it  ever  so  humble,  there  is  no  place  like 
Home." 

FINIS. 


ITINERARY  OF  U.  S.  S.  CALIFORNIA 

FROM  DATE  OF  COMMISSIONING.  AUG.  1,  1907.  TO  AUG.  15.  19! 2 

PORT  VISITED                                                 ARRIVED         DEPARTED  MII,ES 

STEAMED 

Navy  Yard,  Mare  Island,  California Aug.    1,  07  Commissioned       3 

Vallejo  Junction,  California Oct.    8,  07     Oct.     21,  07  21 

Sausalito,  California Oct.  21,  07     Nov.     4,  07  6 

San  Francisco.  California Nov.     4,  07    Nov.  13,  07  810 

Navy  Yard,   Bremerton,   Washington....     Nov.  16,  07     Dec.     4,  07  78 

Victoria,  B.  C Dec.    4,  07     Dec.     5,  07  750 

San  Francisco,  California Dec.    8,07     Dec.  12,  07  265 

Santa  Barbara    Channel Dec.  13,  07     Dec.  15,  07  280 

Vallejo  Junction,  California Dec.  16,  07     Dec.  17,  07  17 

San  Francisco,  California Dec.  17,  07     Dec.  18,  07  440 

San  Diego,  California  Dec.  20,  07     Dec.  20,  07  594 

Magdalena  Bay,    Mexico Dec.  22,  07     Jan.      3,  08  595 

San  Diego,    California    Jan.     5,  08    Jan.       7,  08  440 

San  Francisco,  California,    to Jan.     9,  08    Jan.     17,  08  730 

San  Francisco,  California Jan.   19,  08    Jan.     21,  08  22 

Vallejo  Junction,   California Jan.  21,08     Feb.      4,08  2 

Navy  Yard,  Mare  Island,    California Feb.     4,08     Feb.     18,08  2 

Vallejo  Junction,  California Feb.  18,  08     Feb.     20,08  1041 

Magdalena  Bay,  Mexico Feb.  23,  08     Mar.    11,  08  596 

San  Diego,  California Mar.  13,  08     Mar.    16,  08  96 

San  Pedro,  California Mar.  16,  08     Mar.    23,  08  20 

Redondo.   California Mar.  23,  08     Mar.    25,  08  9 

Venice,  California Mar.  25,  08     Mar.    27,  08  270 

Monterey.   California Mar.  28,  08     Mar.    29,  08  96 

San  Francisco,  California Mar.  29,  08     Apr.      1,  08  735 

Port  Angeles,    Washington Apr.     4,08     Apr.      6,08  31 

Port  Townsend,  Washington  Apr.     6,08     Apr.       8,08  41 

Bellingham,    Washington Apr.     8,  08     Apr.     11,  08  33 

Blaine,    Washington Apr.   11,  08     Apr.     12,  08  85 

Everett,  Washington Apr.  12,  08     Apr.     13,  08  29 

Seattle.    Washington Apr.   13,  08     Apr.     15,  08  13 

Navy  Yard,  Bremerton,  Washington...     Apr.   15,  08     Apr.     23,  08  79 

Anacortes,  Washington Apr.   23,  08     Apr.     25,  08  66 

Seattle,    Washington Apr.    25,  08     Apr.     27,  08  13 

Navy  Yard,  Bremerton,   Washington...     Apr.   27,  08     May       1,  08  851 

San  Francisco,    California May      4,  08     May     17,  08  277 

Santa  Barbara,  California May    18,08     May     22,08  88 

Long  Beach,    California Mav    22,08     May     25,08  88 

Santa  Barbara.    California May    25,08     May     29,08  68 

Venice,  California May    29,  08    June      1,  08  68 

Santa  Barbara,  California June     1,  08    June       4,  08  74 

Redondo,    CaHfornia June    5,08    June       8,08  74 

Santa  Barbara,  California June    8,  08     June     13,  08  212 

Santa  Cruz,  California June  14,  08    June     15,08  85 

Vallejo  Junction,    California June  15,  08     June     16,08  25 

Hunter's  Point  Dry-dock  June  16,  08    June     19,  08  4 


92 


NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 


San  Francisco,    California June  19,  08 

Vallejo  Junction,   California June  23,  08 

San  Francisco,    California June  27,  08 

San  Diego,   California July     3,  08 

San  Francisco,    California July     9,  08 

Vallejo  Junction,   California July  10,08 

Navy  Yard,  Mare  Island,  California July  13,  08 

California  City,    California Aug.  16,  08 

San  Francisco,  California Aug.  18,  08 

Honolulu,    T.  H Sept.    2,  08 

Pago  Pago,   Samoa Sept.  20,  08 

Honolulu,  T.  H Oct.    17,08 

Magdalena  Bay,    Mexico  Nov.     2,  08 

Amapala,    Honduras Dec.     8,  08 

Panama Dec.   12,08 

Talcahuana,  Chile,  at  sea,  bound  for...     Dec.  31,  08 

Talcahuana  at  sea,  bound  for Jan.      1,  09 

Talcahuana,    Chile Jan.      3,  09 

Coquimbo,   Chile Jan.    16,  09 

Callao,   Peru Jan.    27,  09 

Chatham  Island,  Ecuador Feb.  14,  09 

Panama  Feb.  22,  09 

Amapala,  Honduras Mar.     3,  09 

Magdalena  Bay,  Mexico Mar.  18,  09 

San  Francisco,    California April    7,  09 

Magdalena  Bay,  Mexico April  12,  09 

San  Francisco,    California April  21,  09 

Port  Townsend,  Washington  May    20,  09 

Tacoma,   Washington Mav    21,  09 

Seattle,  Washington May    29,  09 

Navy  Yard,   Bremerton,  Washington...     June     4,  09 

San    Francisco,  California June  10,  09 

Navy  Yard,  Mare  Island,   California...     June  11,  09 

Hunter's  Point.    California July    24,09 

Mare  Island  Light,   California July    27,  09 

Navy  Yard,  Mare  Island,  California...     Aug.     2,  09 

San  Francisco,   California Aug.   14,  09 

Seattle,   Washington Aug.   18,  09 

Vashon  Island,   Washington Aug.   20,  09 

Off  Vashon  Island,    Washington Aug.   20,  09 

Seattle,  Washington Aug.   20,  09 

California  City,   California Aug.  31,  09 

San  Francisco,   California Sept.     1,  09 

Honolulu,  T.    H Sept.  10,  09 

Maalaea  Bay,  T.  H Sept.  20,  09 

Off  Maalaea  Bay,  T.   H Sept.  21,  09 

Hilo,  T.  H Sept.  23,  09 

Honolulu,  T.    H Sept.  25,  09 

Mares  Harbor,  Admiraltv  Id Oct.     17,09 

Manila,  P.  I '. Oct.    30,09 

Cavite,   P.  I Nov.     4.  09 

Olongapo,  P.  I Nov.     7,  09 

Manila  Bay,   P.   I Nov.     9.  09 

Olongapo,  P.  I Nov.   10,  09 

Manila  Bay,  P.    I Nov.  12,  09 


June  23,  08 

21 

June  27,  08 

21 

July  1,  08 

450 

July  7,  08 

450 

July  10,  08 

24 

July  13,  08 

2 

Aug.  16,  08 

18 

Aug.  18,  08 

8 

Aug.  24,  08 

2100 

Sept.  10,  08 

2300 

Oct.  7.  08 

2275 

Oct.  22,  08 

2450 

Dec.  1,  08 

1730 

Dec.  10,  08 

753 

Dec.  22,  08 

2140 

600 

Jan.  14,  09 

480 

Jan.  22,  09 

1120 

Feb.  10,  09 

900 

Feb.  18,  09 

860 

Feb.  28,  09 

750 

Mar.  13,  09 

1620 

April  4,  09 

1017 

April  8,  09 

1017 

April  17,  09 

1017 

May  17,  09 

766 

May  21,  09 

56 

May  29,  09 

25 

June  4,  09 

17 

June  7,  09 

821 

June  11,  09 

30 

July  24,  09 

28.5 

July  27,  09 

26.4 

Aug.  2,  09 

3 

Aug.  14,  09 

25.8 

Aug.  15,  09 

804 

Aug.  20,  09 

8 

Aug.  20,  09 

152 

Aug.  20,  09 

8 

Aug.  28,  09 

806 

Sept.  1.  09 

7.3 

Sept.  5,  09 

2156 

Sept.  20,  09 

90 

Sept.  21,  09 

120 

Sept.  22,  09 

114 

Sept.  24,  09 

198 

Oct.   5,  09 

3587 

Oct.  25,  09 

1952 

Nov.  4,  09 

4 

Nov.  7,  09 

6 

Nov.  9,  09 

52 

Nov.  10,  09 

57 

Nov.  12,  09 

53 

Nov,  20,  09 

57 

ITINERARY  SINCE  COMMISSIONING  •  93 

Olongapo,    P.  I : Nov.    20,  09  Dec.      6,  09  63.5 

Manila,  P.  I  Dec.      6,  09  Dec.    10,  09  1751.8 

Yokohama,  Japan Dec.    15,  09  Dec.    30,  09  1150 

Woosung.    China Jan.       3,  10  Jan.     14,  10  1026 

Yokohama,  Japan Jan.     17.  10  Jan.     20,  10  3462 

Honolulu,  T.   H Jan.    31,  10  Feb.      8,  10  2119 

San  Francisco.  California Feb.    14,  10  Feb.    23,  10  7 

California  City,  California Feb.    23,10  Feb.    24,10  7 

San  Francisco,  California Feb.    24,10  Mar.      1,10  293 

Santa  Barbara,  California Mar.      2,  10  Mar.      7,  10  28.5 

Santa  Rosa,  Island,  California Mar.      7,  10  Mar.    11,  10  28.5 

Santa  Barbara,    California Mar.    11,  10  Mar.    14,  10  18 

Santa  Barbara  Channel Mar.    14.10  Mar.    14,10  17 

Santa  Barbara,    California Mar.    14,10  Mar.    15,10  25 

Santa  Cruz  Island,  California  Mar.    15,10  Mar.    18,10  25 

Santa  Barbara,    California Mar.    18,  10  Mar.    22,  10  28 

Santa  Rosa  Island,  California Mar.    22,10  Mar.    23,10  28 

Santa  Barbara,  California Mar.    23,  10  Mar.    24,  10  15 

Santa  Barbara  Channel,  California Mar.    24,  10  Mar.    24,  10  15 

Santa  Barbara,  California Mar.    24,10  Mar.    27,10  45 

Santa  Rosa  Island,    California Mar.   27,  10  Mar.    28,  10 

On  Target  Range  off  Santa  Barbara...  Mar.    29,  10  April     2,  10  525 

Santa  Rosa  Island,    California April     2,10  April     3,10  317 

Santa  Cruz,    California April     4,  10  April     6,  10  85 

California  City,  California April     6,10  April     7,10  17 

Navy  Yard,  Mare  Island.   California..  April     7,  10  Aug.     9,  10  21 

California  City.  California Aug.      9,10  Aug.    11,10  8 

San  Franci.sco,  California Aug.    11,  10  Aug.    14,  10  3939.1 

Chimbote,   Peru Aug.    28,  10  Sept.     4,  10  1570 

Valparaiso,   Chile Sept.   10,  10  Sept.  23,  10  1460.3 

Chimbote,    Peru Sept.   28,  10  Oct.       3,  10  3434.4 

San  Francisco,  California Oct.     16,10  Nov.     3,10  460.8 

San  Diego,  California Nov.      5,10  Nov.   19,  10  510.9 

San  Francisco,  California Nov.    21,  10  Nov.    27,  10  9.9 

Tiburon,  California Nov.    27.  10  Nov.    28,  10  10.4 

San  Francisco,  California Nov.    28,10  Nov.    30,10  507.6 

San    Diego,    California ...  Dec.      2,  10  Dec.    21.  10  486 

On  target  range,  off  vSan  Diego,  Cal..  Steamed  1859.3 

San  Francisco,   California Dec.    23,10  Dec.    28,10  9 

Tiburon,  California  Dec.    28.10  Dec.    29,10  9 

San  Francisco,    California Dec.    29,  10  Jan.       4,  11  311 

vSanta  Barbara,  California Jan.       5,  U  Jan.     14,  11  291.8 

San  Francisco,  California Jan.     15,  11  Jan.     17,  11  303.6 

Santa  Barbara,  California Jan.     18,11  Jan.    31,11  182 

San  Diego,   California  Feb.      1.11  Feb.    28,11  102.1 

SanPedro.    California Mar.      1,  11  Mar.      1,  11  5.9 

Long  Beach,    California Mar.      1,11  Mar.      4,11  4,9 

San  Pedro,   California Mar.      4,11  Mar.      4,11  5.6 

Long  Beach,   California Mar.      4,  11  Mar.      5,  11  4.7 

San  Pedro,    California Mar.      5,  11  Mar.      9,  11  89.3 

San  Diego,  California Mar.      9.  11  June    25,  11  468 

San  Pedro,  California June    26,11  June    27,11  85 

Santa  Barbara,    California June    28,  11  June    28,  11  277 

San  Francisco,    California June    29,11  June   30,11  24 

Mare  Island,    California June    30,  11  July      6,  11  23 


94  NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 


San  Francisco,  California July  6,  11  July    17,  11  23 

Mare  Island,  California July  17,11  Sept.  16,  11  4 

Mare  Island  Light,  California Sept.  16,  11  Sept.  18,  11  19 

San  Francisco,  California Sept.  18,  11  Sept.  20.  11  440 

San  Diego,  California Sept.  23,  11  Sept.  25,  11  500 

Coronado  Beach,  California Sept.  25,  11  Sept.  30,  11  8 

San  Diego,    California Sept.  30,  11  Oct.      2,  11  52 

Coronado,    California Oct.  2,  11  Oct.      4,  11  83.9 

San  Pedro,  California Oct.  5,  11  Oct.      6,  11  87 

Santa  Monica,  California Oct.  6,  11  Oct.      9,  11  230 

San  Francisco,   California Oct.  10,  11  Oct.    17,  11  7 

California  City,  California Oct.  17,11  Oct.    17,11  7 

San  Francisco,   California Oct.  17,  11  Oct.    19,  11  345 

San  Diego,  California Oct.  20,  11  Oct.    23,  11  122 

Coronado,    California Oct.  23,  11  Oct.    27,  11  10 

San  Diego,   California Oct.  27,11  Oct.    31,11  10 

Coronado,    California Oct.  31,  11  Oct.    31,  11  87 

San  Pedro,  California Nov.  1,  11  Nov.     4,  11  87 

San  Diego,  California Nov.  4,  11  Nov.     6,  11  42 

Coronado,    California Nov.  6,  11  Nov.     7,  11  24 

San  Diego,  California Nov.  7,  11  Nov.     8,  11  10 

Coronado,    California Nov.  8,11  Nov.   12,  11  10 

San  Diego,  California Nov.  12,  11  Nov.  12,  11  42 

Coronado,   California Nov.  12,  11  Nov.   15,  11  24 

San  Diego,    California Nov.  15,  11  Nov.   15,  11  348 

Tiburon,  California  Nov.  17.  11  Nov.   17,   11  7 

San  Francisco.   California Nov.  17,  11  Nov.   21,  11  2181.7 

Honolulu,    T.  H Nov.  28,  11  Dec.      2.11  88 

Waialua,    T.  H  Dec.  2,  11  Dec.      3,  11  45 

Honolulu,    T.  H Dec.  3,  11  Dec.    14,  11  13 

Pearl  Harbor,  T.  H Dec.  14,11  Dec.    14,11  11 

Honolulu,    T.  H Dec.  14,  11  Dec.    15,  11  180.4 

Hilo,  T.  H Dec.  16,  11  Dec,    20,  11  159.1 

Honolulu.  T.    H Dec.  21,  11  Jan.    29,  12  40 

Off  Honolulu,  T.  H Jan.  29,12  Feb.      1.12  3 

Naval  Station,  Honolulu,  T.  H Fel).  1.  12  Feb.      5,  12  38 

Off  Honolulu,  T.  H Feb.  5,12  Feb.      6,12  34 

Off  Honolulu,  T.   H Feb.  6,  12  Feb.      7,  12  50 

Off  Honolulu,  T.   H Feb.  7,12  Feb.      8,12  40 

Naval  Station,  Honolulu,  T.  H Feb.  8,  12  Feb.    12,  12  77 

Lehaiana,  Maui,  T.  H Feb.  12,  12  Feb.    13,  12  132 

Kealakakua,  Hawaiia,  T.    H Feb.  13,  12  Feb.    14,  12  148 

Hilo,  Hawaiia,  T.  H Feb.  15,  12  Feb.    19,  12  122 

Kahului,  T.  H Feb.  19,  12  Feb.    20,  12  95 

Honolulu,  T.   H Feb.  20,  12  Mar.   11,  12  3 

Off  Honolulu,  T.    H Mar.  11,  12  Mar.   12,  12  32 

Off  Honolulu,    T.  H Mar.  12,  12  Mar.  13.  12  32 

Off  Honolulu,    T.  H Mar.  13.  12  Mar.   14,  12  28 

Off  Honolulu,  T.  H Mar.  14,  12  Mar.   15,  12  32 

Off  Honolulu,  T.  H Mar.  15,  12  Mar.   16,  12  3 

Naval  Station,    Honolulu,  T.  H Mar.  16,  12  Mar.   18,  12  3579  8 

Guam,    M.   I April  2,  12  April    2,  12  1578 

Olongapo,  P.  I April  8,  12  April    9,  12  60 

Cavite,  P.  I April  9,12  April  12,  12  60 

Olongapo,  P.  I April  12,  12  April  26,  12  64 


ITINERARY  SINCE  COMMISvSIONING  95 


Manila,    P.I    April  26,  12  April  29,  12  4 

Cavite,  P.  I April  29,  12  May      1,  12  26 

Target  Range May      1,  12  May     4,  12  26 

Manila,  P.  I May      4,  12  May      6,  12  34 

Target  Range May      6,12  May    10,12  320 

Manila,  P.    I May    10,  12  May    13,  12  100 

Target  Range May    13,  12  May    17,  12  315 

Olongapo,  P.  I May    17,  12  May    24,  12  372 

Manila,    P.I May    24,22  May    26,12  24 

Manila,    P.  I May    26,  12  May    38,  12  130 

Manila,   P.  I Mav    28,  12  June     5,  12  564.8 

Cavite,  P.  I June     6,  12  -June     7,12  46.5 

Olongapo,  P.    I.. ; June     7,  12  June  10,  12  241.3 

Cavite,  P.  I June  10,  12  June  12,  12  62.8 

Olongapo,    P.  I  June  12.  12  June  19,  12  62.8 

Manila,  P.  I June  19.  12  June  24,  12  16 

Cavite,  P.  I June  24,  12  June  26,  12  1133 

Woosung,   China June  30,  12  July     6,  12  409 

Tsingtau,   China July     8,  12  July    14,  12  1156 

Yokohama,  Japan July    17,  12  July    24,  12  3378 

Honolulu,  T.  H Aug.     4,  12  Aug.     6,  12  2091 

San  Francisco,    California Aug.   15,  12                            

TOTAI.  MILES  STEAMED  SINCE  COMMISSIONING 96,089.8 

The  California  was  commissioned  August  1st,  1907,  at  the  Navy 
Yard,  Mare  Island.  Cal.,  Captain  Thomas  Phelps  Commanding.  Captain 
Phelps  was  relieved  by  Lieutenant-Commander  N.  A.  McCully  October  12, 
1907.  who  was  relieved  by  Captain  V.  L.  Cottman,  November  18,  1907. 
Captain  Cottman  remained  in  command  until  September  30,  1909,  being 
relieved  by  Captain  Henry  T.  Mayo,  who  was  relieved  January  16,  1911, 
by  Captain  Charles  H.  Harlow.  On  April  14,  Captain  Harlow  was  retired 
and  relieved  temporarily  by  Ivieutenant-Commander  Willis  McDowell,  who 
in  turn  was  temporarily  relieved  by  Captain  C.  M.  Fahs.  On  July  1st, 
Captain  Fahs  was  relieved  by  Captain  A.  S.  Ha'.stead,  now  in  command. 

The  California  was  built  by  the  Union  Iron  Works,  San  Francisco,  Cal. 
Her  construction  was  authorized  by  Congress,  June,  1900,  contract  price 
$3,800,000  and  launched  April  28,  1904.  Her  speed  on  four  hour  trial  was 
22.2  knots.  Her  length  is  502  feet,  beam  69  feet,  10^  in.  Horsepower 
23,000.  Displacement  13.680  tons.  Displacement  with  full  bunkers,  15,138 
tons.  She  has  two  3-bladed  propellers,  18  ft.  diameter,  of  Manganese  bronze. 

BATTERY 
Four  8-inch  guns  in  turrets,  fourteen  6  inch  guns,  eighteen  3-in.  guns, 
four  3-pounders,  two  3-inch  field  guns,  2  gattling  guns,  2  colts. 

ARMOR 
8  feet  deep,  3  feet  above  load  water  line,  5  feet  below;  6  inches  thick 
at  top,  5  inches  at  bottom  at  midships,  tapering  to  3>^  inches  at  ends. 
Turrets:  6%  inches  thick  front,  6  inches  sides,  2  inches  on  inclined  top. 
Barbette:  6  inches  thick.  Conning  tower,  9  inches  thick.  Protective 
deck:  4  inches  thick  on  incline,  1>^  inches  thick  on  top. 


ROSTER  OF  OFFICERS 

U.  S.  S.  CALIFORNIA.  FLAGSHIP 
UNITED  STATES  PACIFIC  FLEET 

Rear  Admiral  Chauncey  Thomas,  Commander-in-Chief,  U.  S.  Pacific  Fleet 

Jan.  16,  1911  to  Mar.  7,  1912. 
Rear  Admiral  W.H.H.vSoutherland,  Commander-in-Chief,  U.S.Pacific  Fleet 

Mar.  7,  1912  to 

Personal  Staff 

lyieutenant  Commander  Willliam  D.  Leahy Fleet  Ordnance  Offiicer 

Lieutenant  Commander  S.  I.  M.  Major  ...Fleet  Engineer 

Lieutenant  Robert  L.  Ghormley  Flag  Lieutenant 

Lieutenant  (j.  g.)  Charles  G.  Davy Flag  Secretary 

Fleet  Staff 

Pay  Inspector  Thomas  H.  Hicks Fleet  Paymaster 

Surgeon  Charles  M.  DeValin Fleet  Surgeon 

Major  Charles  S.   Hill Fleet  Marine  Officer 

Officers  of  U.  S.  S.  California 

Captain  C.  H.  Harlow Commanding  (Jan.  16,  1911  to  Apr.  12,  1912) 

Captain  C.  M.  Fahs Commanding  (Apr.  16,  1912  to  July  1,  1912) 

Captain  A.  S.  Halstead Commanding  (July  1,  1912 ) 

Lieutenant  Commander  Willis  McDowell 

Lieutenant  Commander  H.  T.  Winston 

Lieutenant  G.  W.  Steele,  Jr. 

Lieutenant  (j.  g.)  R.  T.  Keiran 

Lieutenant  (j.  g.)  J.  M.  Schelling 

Lieutenant  (j.  g.)  R.  B.  Horner 

Lieutenant  (j.  g. )  E.  A.  Lofquist 

Ensign  H.  A.  Badt 

Ensign  K.  L.  Hill 

Ensign  H.  C.  Train 

Ensign  W.  W.  Waddell 

Ensign  M.  S.    Bennion 

Ensign  ¥.  G.  Marsh 

Ensign  J.  G.   Ware 

Ensign  R.  H.  Skelton 

Ensign  M.  H.  Anderson 

Ensign  D.  J.  Callaghan 

Ensign  P.  M.  Bates 

Ensign  H.  R.  Bogusch 

Ensign  W.  H.  O'Brien,  Jr. 

Ensign  H,  Bode 

P.  A.  Surgeon  W.  A.  Angwin 

P.  A.  Surgeon  C.   B.  Munger 

Paymaster  J.  S.  Beeoher 

Ibt  Lt.,  USMC,  H.  T.  Vulte 

Chaplain  J.  F.  Fleming 

Boatswain  W.  R.    Buechner 

Chief  Gunner  C.  W.  Ljungquist 

Gunner  G.  P.  Schurz 

Ch.  Machinist  W.  R.  Scofield 

Machinist  R.   G.  Moody 

Machinist  E.  W.  Dobie 

Carpenter  H.  Duthie 

Pay  Clerk  (Fleet)  Harry  Mack 

Pay  Clerk  W.  A.  Gillman 


ROSTER  OF  CREW 

U.  5.  S.  CALIFORNIA 


",f 


Chief  Master-at-Arms 

Ganeau,  K. 
Marshall,  D.  F. 
Siemes,  M. 

Chief  Boatswain's  Mates 
Anderson,  Iv. 
Clark,  C.  F. 
Hill,  R. 
Jacobsen,  S. 
Tyseling,  S. 
Xaiver,  A. 

Chief  Gunner's  Mates 
Rakow,  R. 
Vincent,  F. 

Chief  Turret  Captain 
Day,  W.  A. 

Chief  Quartermasters 
Conroy,  M.  D. 
Schiedemen,  J.  Iv. 

Chief  Machinist's  Mates 
Cole,  L.  J.  ^-^f^ 

Conner,  H.  C. 
Evans,  J.  B. 
Hilt,  H.  Iv. 
Michael,  J. 
Neary,  M.  J. 
Penn,  W. 
Ring,  J.  B. 

Chief  Electricians 
Heckendorn,  J. 
Kohls,   C.  A. 
Thornhill,  H. 
Trueworthy,  C.    W. 

Chief  Carpenter's  Mate 
Anderson,  A. 

Chief  Water  Tenders 
Appleby,  W.  I. 
Barry,  K. 
Hermanson,  E.  S. 
King,  G.  W. 
McCarthy,  J. 
Zellar,  W.  A. 

Chief  Yeomen 
Dunham,  S.  V. 
Richmond,  W.  E. 
Thayer,   E.  Iv. 
Va^ey,  R.  C. 

Hospital  Stewards 
3arber,  D.  F. 


Hospital  Stewards  (Contd.) 

Zembscb,  Iv. 

Bandmaster 
Wrobel,  L. 

Chief  Commissary  Steward 
Von  Mohnlein,  G. 

Master-at-Arms,  Ist  Class 


Klesow,  J.  C. 

Trulson,   H.  T. 

Boatswain's  Mates,  1st  Class 

Burmeister,  N. 

King,  I..  H). 

Ivightener,  F.  E. 

- 

McQuade,   T. 

Tar  bell,  G.  E. 

Turret  Captain,  1st  Class 

Kaiss,  B>  H. 

Gunner's  Mates,  Ist  Class 

Bain,  C.  O. 

Barrett,  P. 

Blade,  E.  J. 

Costello,  B.   P. 

Emmel,  E. 

■\ 

Junior,  C.  J. 

■ 

Williams,  C.  A. 

Quartermasters,  1st  Class 

: 

Borchers,  Iv.  S. 

Hackett,  R.  F. 

Shade,  S.  L. 

Machinist's  Mates  1st  Class 

Grandrau,  I/.  A. 

Kowalski,  G.  J. 

IvOS,  J. 

Morgan,  C. 

Rowe,  H.  S. 

Savell,  M.  A. 

Tilghman,  D. 

■ 

Electricians,  1st  Class 

Artley,  D. 

Bankhead,  C.  A. 

DeVinna.  C. 

Duncan,  W,  A. 

i 

Edge,  E.  R. 

■ 

Findley,  F.  W. 

■ 

Horsted,  C. 

. 

Mallon,  J.  F. 

Mullen,  W.  M. 

Newton,  H.  F. 

Schaiblin,  T. 

Sherman,  K.  W. 

98 


NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 


Electricians,  Ist  Class  (Contd.) 

Stilwell,  D.  H. 
Talla,  J. 

Boilermakers 

Burke,  W.  I. 
Cullinan,  J.  O. 
McCue,  J.  J. 
Walker,  J.  H. 

Copersmith 
Utz,   R.   H. 

Blacksmiths 
McCafferkey,  E.  T. 
Corson,  J.  R. 
Dahlstrom,  R.   O. 
Krickmeyer,  VV. 

Plumbers  &  Fitters 

Houser,  R. 
Kilgoat,  J. 
Schafer,  J.  W. 
Smith,  W.  M. 

Sailmaker's  Mate 
Gruber,  F.  B. 

Water  Tenders 
Ala,  G.  F. 
Beach,  C.  E. 
Blackwood,   W. 
Bush,  F. 
Clark,  A.  G. 
Donlon,  J. 
Hall,   F.  C. 
Holtzman,  P. 
Johanson,  R. 
Kinstrey,  J. 
Matheson,  A. 
Murry,  W.  J. 
O'Hara,  H. 
Ohm,  G. 
Parker,  A.  Iv. 
Seeker,  P.  A. 
Smith,  G. 
vSmith,  H.  P. 
Smith,  J. 
Stalling,  W. 

Painter,     1st    Class 
Woodbury,   M.  A. 

Yeomen,  1st  Class 
Davis,  J.  R. 
Deering,  J.  R. 
Pottorff,  S.  O. 
Taylor,  E.  C 
Veirs,  R.  B. 


Ship's  Cook,  1st  Class 

Soolman,   M. 

Baker,   1st  Class 
Johnson,  E. 

Masters-at-Arms  2nd  Class 

Carrera,  M. 
Italien,  H. 
Schlenther,  H. 

Boatswain's  Mates,  2nd  Class 

Berg,  h.  A. 
Jones,  C. 
Korporaal,  P. 
Montez,  J.  G. 
McEachern,  H. 
McPherson,  W.  C. 
Nallen,  B.  F. 
Richardson,   W.  T. 
Stevenson,  W.  K. 
Walker,  D.  T. 

Gunner's  Mates,  2nd  Class 

Jackson,  R. 
Ivewis,  W.  H. 
Maerz,  J. 
Newton,  H.  F. 
Robbins,  J.  W. 
Schultz,  B.  F. 
Sullivan,  J.  h. 
Stewart,  H.  A. 
Williamson,   C.  P. 

Quartermaster,    2nd  Class 
Hawkins,  C.  A. 

Machinist's  Mates,  2nd  Class 

Cole,  C.  H. 
Drilling,  H.  E. 
Frank,  C.  E. 
Fraser,  V.  h. 
Fuhman,   C. 
Hany,  E. 
Heusser,  W. 
Karter,  B.  H. 
Kilwinski,  F.  H. 
Moore,  J.  Iv. 
Nelson,   H.  J. 
Quinn,  M.  M. 
Rinehimer,  P. 
Smith,  R.  S. 

Electricians,  2nd  Class 

Ahrens,  E.  F. 
Corbiere,  A, 
Gaxiola,  W.  M. 
Hodgman,  F.  S. 


AND  EXPERIENCKS  IN  NICARAGUA 


99 


Electricians  2nd  Class. 

Hodgrman,  F.  S. 
Home,   E. 
Richardson,  H. 
Talmadge,   G.   L. 

Carpenter's  Mates  2nd  Class. 

Meredith,  G. 

Printers. 

Lokey,  E.  R. 
La  France,  O.  C. 

Oilers. 

Beck,   E.   C. 
Boebel,   D. 
Bresnahan,  D. 
Carson,   L.    R. 
Collier,   F.  L. 
Duffield,  C.  F. 
Ford,  J. 
Fox,  E.  J  . 
Gordon,  V.  O. 
Hamilton,  P. 
Harris,   W.   N. 
Henkel,  W.  C. 
Hirstius,  O.  H. 
Kaeo,    J.   F. 
Keenan,  W.   J, 
Keller,  P.  J. 
Kurtz,   F.  W. 
L>angley,  L.  H. 
Russom,  A. 
Stein,   H. 
Turner,   M. 
"Warner,   W. 
Williamson,    G. 

ShipTitters  2nd  Class. 
Berg,   A.  C. 
Carson,   W.   D. 
Harding-,   E.   L. 

Painters  2nd  Class. 

Lamb,  J.  H. 

Yoeman  2nd  Class. 

Chester,  E. 
Hall,  R.  E. 
Varis,    W.    G. 

Ship's  Cooks  2nd  Class. 
Cox,  C.  W. 
Crouch,  C.  D. 

Masters  at  Arms  3rd  Class. 
Francis,    M.    L. 
Pass,    C.   M. 
Shirley,   F.  H. 


Coxswains. 

Anderson,  C.  M. 
Anderson,   W. 
Brown,    S.   H. 
Case,   F.   L. 
Champion,  D.  E. 
Chapman,  W.  D. 
Cross,    E.    J. 
Cunningham,  H.  C. 
DeGray,   H. 
Finstad,    G.,  W. 
Gros,  A.  P. 
Harts,    S. 
Henriksen,    P. 
Jeanes,    J.    O.,    Jr. 
Lakin,   C.   F. 
O'Neill,   J. 
Ryan,  K. 
Sims,  D.  A. 
Smart,  W.  T. 
Spring,  J.  M. 

Gunner's  Mates  3rd  Class. 

Anderson,  P.  P. 
Bracken,  W.  H. 
Clark,   R. 
Dunlevy,    J.    G. 
Garrity,   J.  E. 
Hortsman,    H.    C.    P. 
Johnston,    J. 
Koenig,   W.   F.   C. 
Marrah,    J.    E. 
McMahan,    J.    O. 
Olson,  H.   J. 
Wylie,    R.    S. 

Quartermasters  3rd  Class. 

Caldwell,   J.   F. 
Conyers,    D.    E. 
Hart,  J.   P. 
Kern,   A. 
Munson,    C. 
Nicholson,    J.    W. 
Zebley,   G.   J. 

Electricians  3rd  Class. 

Beach,    F.    L. 

Bufton,  W.   A. 

Garland,   L.  V. 

Jones,   T. 

Rickell,  R.  C.  ' 

Robbing,  H.  L. 

Ryan,    J.   L. 

Smith,   W.   W. 

Welk,  H.   K.  :  .. 


100 


NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 


Carpenter's  Mates  3rd  Class. 

Earnest,    G.    C. 
Ha]  ford,   G.   W. 
Sandeen,    R. 
Wuerl,    J. 
Wolf,   I.   D. 

Painters  3rd  Class. 

Woodward,    S.    J. 

Yeoman  3rd  Class. 

Carter,    R.   A. 
Cunningham,   O.   H. 
Miller,    O. 
McCain,   W.   E. 
Oliver,  H.   P. 
Worster,   G.   E. 

Hospital  Apprentices  l«t  Class. 

Allen,   P.  O. 
Haywood,   J.  W. 
Lane,    CM. 
Roane,   W.   R. 
Swang-,  L.  W. 

Seamen. 
Andrews,    J.    S. 
Armbruster,   D.    F. 
Arnold,    B.    G. 
Baldwin,    J.    M. 
Barnard,   E.   F. 
Barnes,  L.  J. 
Barrett,    D.    E. 
Barrows,    H.    E. 
Biggs,    C.    K. 
Biggs,  H.   L. 

Bosshardt,    L.    P.  - 

Brand,    E.    H. 
Brandon,    J.    W. 
Bray,    L. 

Bremer,    A.    J.  , 

Briggs,   A.   W. 
Brimhall,    W.    R. 
Broadbent,   C.   S.,   Jr. 
Brotherton,   J.   S.   S. 
Brown,  W.  S. 
Caldwell,  M.  L. 
Carter,   C.   D. 
Chilson,    P.    H. 

Clark,    C.    V.  • 

Cockrum,    B.    McM. 
Cook,   C.   H. 
Corell,  C.  P. 
Coriell,    C.    P. 
Coulter,   W.   M. 
Cruikshank,   J,   I.  ^ 


Davenport,  W.   T. 
Decker,   E.   R. 
Dees,  L.  J. 
Dideriksen,   A.   T. 
Dunbar,    N.    Jr. 
Dunning,    W.    D. 
Emmett,   R. 
Engelhardt,    L.    P. 
Fetter,   J  A 
Fleming,   W.   G. 
Fruge,   O.   N. 
Gamel,   G.   E.  ■ 
Gilbay,   J. 
Gillman,   K.   L. 
Gilman,    W.    S. 
Gordon,    H. 
Gotham,    P.    W. 
Hall,    D. 

Harrison,    G.    R. 
Heggan,    S.    L. 
Hoffman,   W.   E. 
Hooper,    L.    W. 
Howard,  W.   N. 
Hunter,   R.   V. 
Imus,   W.   C. 
Ing,    P. 

Jaswiec,    P.    T. 
Jenkins,    R.   B. 
Kennedy,   G.   P. 
Kerner,    A. 
Lordrum,  D.   R. 
Lehmann,    E.    A. 
Leson,    S.    R. 
Love,  E.   R. 
Lusk,    W.    G. 
Lynch,   C.   P. 
Mannion,   P.   J. 
Manson,    J.   L. 
Marwood,   D.   H. 
Merbert,   C.   W. 
Meyer,    E.    E. 
Miller,   L.   E. 
Milligan,   H.   E. 
Molitor,    P. 
Morrill,    B.    S. 
Murrell,    J.    B. 
Murry,    M. 
McCartney,   P.   W. 
McDonald,    C.    H. 
McKenzie,    J.   L. 
Neubauer,   R. 
Newby,    A.    J. 
Nicol,    W.    H.    C. 
Nourse,   G.   R. 


AND  EXPERIENCES  IX  NICARAGUA 


101 


Palmer,  J. 
Pollock,   H.   H. 
Pritchard,    W.    H. 
Rhodes,    J.    ^\^ 
Riley,    A. 
Roache,   N.   J. 
Roeder,  C.  J. 
Ronsse,  H.  J. 
Ross,    F.    G. 
Savage,  G.  W. 
Schaule,    J.    A. 
Schmidt,    J. 
Scott,  H.  J. 
Shankland,  B.   L. 
Sharkey,    T.    J. 
Sibertson,    H.    A. 
Simmers,  G. 
Smith,  H. 
Smyth,  F.  J. 
Soch,   F. 
Spray,    J.    S. 
Sterrett,    J    R. 
Stevens,    E.    M. 
Thomas,    T.   F. 
Toennies,  J.   C.   M. 
Vanderford,    J.    B. 
Viets,   C.   C. 
Warren,  G.  E. 
Welch,  C.  T. 
Welsh,    J.   E. 
White,  C. 
White,  C.  S. 
Whitlock,  R.  B. 
Wiley,   G.   F. 
Willett,   G.   B. 
Wolf,   W.   F. 
Worford,  C.  T. 

Firemen  1st  Class. 

Adams,  N.   S. 
Barnes,   D. 
Barry,   D. 
Bradford,   G.   H. 
Brown,   C.   L. 
Burns,    F. 
Buxel,   C.   E. 
Carlyon,   J.  E. 
Coen,  C.  B. 
Coffield,    I.    F.    ' 
Connely,   S.  M. 
Cook,   F.   A. 
Cortterell,   C.   L. 
Coyle,   A.   A. 


Detlaff.   A.   L. 
Dodge,  R.  G. 
Dubee,   A. 
Duerr,    H. 
Edwards,    P.    H. 
Einhouse,   H. 
Floyd,    F.   C. 
Ford,  I.  R. 
Franklin,   B.   T. 
Golden,  G.  V. 
Hopkins,    N.   C. 
Hulburt,    F.    II. 
Ingold,   H. 
Ingold,   I. 
Karl,  W.  G. 
Kelley,    P.    W. 
Lanterman,   J.   E. 
Lewis,   R.   A. 
L.indgren,    A.   W. 
Linsted,    B. 
Maciejewski,    J.    S. 
Mattson,   N.    B. 
Merrick,    R.    W. 
Moon,   C.   T. 
Moran,  T.   J. 
McDonald,  T. 
McKown,    D.    F. 
Nave    E. 
Xeuman,   A.   N. 
Nicodemus,    G.    A. 
Patterson,    C.    G. 
Richardson,    J. 
Richmond,    C.    C. 
Rivers,    J.    E. 
Roane,    F.    M. 
Robins,    A.    J. 
Scranton,    C.    O. 
Sheppard,   W.    T. 
Simon,   C.   W. 
Smith,    W. 
Sparkman,   A.   H. 
Stine,   C.   W.   "W. 
Swank,   J.   R. 
Tiller,   R.   P. 
Todd,    J. 
Vinson,    E.    S. 
Wapp,    A.    T^'. 
Wells,    B.    B. 
Whaley,  B.  L. 
Whyt,   C.   F. 
Wilkerson,  W.  F. 
Wright,    F.   E. 


102 


NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 


Musicians   1st  Class. 

Bennage,  R.  L. 
Brannan,  A.  C. 
Contreras,  B. 
Craig,  A.  J. 
Davis,  J.  S, 
Fisher,  R. 
Jake,  E.  F. 
Milam,  F.  A. 
Miller,   F. 
Thomas,  N.   S. 

Ship's  Cooks  3rd  Class. 
Dunlap,    C.    L. 
Prill,  O.   R. 
McDonnall,  R. 

Bakers  2nd  Class. 
Hyre,   S.  M. 
LaLonde,    R.    E. 
Lamka,  C.  R. 
Rooney,  J.  A. 

Ordinary  Seamen. 
Achen,  E.   G. 
Adams,  -C.  E. 
Agassiz,  C.  J. 
Allen,   J.   A. 
Anderson,    A.    C. 
Bachman,  H. 
Bacon,  E.  G. 
Randel,  J.  DeR 
Barkley,  W.  L. 
Bayliss,  J.  J. 
Beadle,  W.  D. 
Boggs,    L.    C. 
Bohks,   P. 
Bostick,   C.   S. 
Bostick,   S.   F. 
Bowen,  J.  B, 
Bryant,   H.   J. 
Budinski,   O.   C. 
Burton,  F.   E. 
Busby,   H,   D. 
Butcher,  R.  E. 
Campbell,  F.  L. 
Cerise,   R.  H. 
Chriss,    L.    M. 
Claussen,  W.   C. 
Coker,  O    G. 
Collins,  L.  E. 
Compton,   J.   W. 
Cook,   K.  W. 
Coronado,    M.    S. 
Corrie,  W.  W. 
Daane,   E. 


Dapper,    R.    P. 
Decker,   A.   L. 
Decker,  P.  S. 
Decker,  P.  S. 
Delaney,    W.    P. 
Denny,    E.    J. 
DeVore,  N.  L. 
Dodd,  E.  B. 
Dooley,   J.   C. 
Dowd,  C.  M. 
Downs,   R.  v. 
Edwards,   P.   H. 
Elbert,   C.   M. 
Elliott,   H.   B. 
Emmet,  C.  R. 
Evans,  H.  B. 
Everett,  A.  W. 
Faulk,    M.    A. 
Fatthauer,   L.  M. 
Ferguson,  J. 
Fickes,   J.   F. 
Fike,  M.  D. 
Finks,  O.  D. 
Foster,   T.  H. 
Fowler,    H.    O. 
Gardner,   V.   P. 
Gasele,  C. 
Graff,  E. 
Greenwell,  D. 
Hafford,  D.  D. 
Hanson,    L.    C. 
Hare,    T.    S. 
Harmon,   B.  F. 
Harmon,  H. 
Harris,    B.   E.   W. 
Harris,  H.  I. 
Harrison,   J.  A. 
Hearne,   G.  W. 
Hearne,   J.   H. 
Hickson,   L.   L. 
Hinnant,  J.  B. 
Homfield,   L.  A. 
Hoskins,    W.    McK 
Houk,    P.    H. 
Hunter,  J. 
Hunting,   L.  S. 
Johnson,  C.  S. 
Johnson,    C. 
Johnson,    S.    L. 
Jones,   C.   E. 
Jones,    P.   K. 
Jorgensen,    M.    C. 
Keeler,   M.   L. 
Kendall,    C.    P. 


AND  EXPERIENCES  IN  NICARAGUA 


103 


H. 


Kennedy,  K.  E, 
King,   W.   S. 
Kirk,  H.  D. 
Kirven,  W.  P. 
Kogrlmeier,    G. 
Kostlevy,   S. 
Lambert,   J.   B. 
Mackey,   G.  B. 
Mackey,   F.   J. 
Mann,  G.  W. 
Martilla,  A. 
Martin,  J. 
Mentsch,   C.   R. 
Miller,  H.  B. 
Minor,  J.  M. 
Mitchell,    F.   C. 
Mooney,  V.  "W. 
Morgan,   F.   S. 
Morgan,   P.   L. 
Murphy,    H.    D. 
McDuffie,  J.   T. 
McGoorty,   T.   P. 
McGuire,    M. 
McKenzie,    S. 
McWhorter,  H.  E 
Nagel,  F.  A. 
Norris,  J.  B. 
Orr,  W.  R.  S. 
Parsons,  A.  J. 
Pemberton,  H.  W 
Phillips,  W.  F. 
Porter,  J.  F. 
Provost,   L.    J. 
Pulliam,    H.    H. 
Quinn,   C. 
Rabe,  W.  A. 
Ralne,   G.   L. 
Rainwater,  H.   E. 
Ray,   H.   M. 
Riggs,   M.   G. 
Rooney,  M.  J. 
Ross,    E. 
Ross,   J. 
Rowe,   C.   G. 
Russell,   M.   F. 
Sehibush,    F. 
Schroll,  W.  H. 
Scott,    H.    L. 
Seidel,   O.  H. 
Shappi,  E.  A. 
Showalter,    C 
Sigler,    R.    A. 
Smith,    J. 
Snyder,   J. 


O. 


Sorenson,   J.    J. 
Spell,   S. 
Steffel,    M. 
Stockman,    D.    T. 
Stout,    O. 
Stuhr,   E.   A. 
Supernaw,    J.    A. 
Swisher,    J.    A. 
Sylvester,    C.    L. 
Tarrants,  L.  R. 
Taylor,   E.    N. 
Tilton,   W.   F. 
Trankle,    W.    S. 
Tray  nor,    P.   A. 
Tucker,    J. 
Veatch,    L. 
Waldie,   G.   W. 
Wallace.   R.   S. 
Ward,   J.  L. 
Watkins,   S.   E. 
Watkins,    W.    R. 
Weikert,   J.   G. 
Wester,    T. 
Whalen.    F.    G. 
Wheat,  C. 
Wilcox,    N.    E. 
Willcox,    H. 
Williams,   C.   L. 
Williams,   R. 
Wilson,   J. 
Young,    C.    W. 

Firemen  2nd  Class. 

Binns,    C. 
Bowker,    B.    G. 
Brown,    J.    N. 
Bunker,   J.   L. 
Call,    W.    F. 
Carpenter,    T.    J. 
Clancy,   T.   W. 
Clark,    Z.    P. 
Collins,    J.    F. 
Emberly,    J.   B. 
Emmons,    R.    R. 
Ferris,    J. 
Foster,    S.    Jr. 
Frid,   J.   E. 
Fuller,    E. 
Garmes,  J. 
Georgie,   W. 
Hambrick,  H.  C. 
Harris,  W. 
Henshaw,  G.  A. 
Hill.    E.    B. 


104 


NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 


Hufft,    C.    E.  -  ' 

Hutchison,    G.    R. 

Johnson,   C.   W. 

Joseph   J. 

Kelly,  R.  J. 

Kline,  A.  R. 

Krauthouse,  C. 

Laird,   C.   H. 

Logan,  S.  A. 

Lucas,  W.  C. 

Mahanna,  C.  E. 

Mattews,    L.    A. 

Michall,  D.  M. 

Llikowski,  L. 

Miles,    E.    B. 

Miller,    W.    D. 

Morgart,    J.    S. 

Moser,    G.   E. 

Murphy,    J.    J. 

Myers,    R.   M. 

McCarthy,    E. 

Nicholson,   H. 

Page,  C.  R. 

Powelson,    M.    V. 

Purpora,    L.    N. 

Redmond,    W.    B. 

Rentz,    S. 

Small,  B.   R. 

Smith,   J.   L. 

Snel],   W.    E. 

Spriggs,   S. 

Squires,    R.    R. 

Styles,   W. 

Tegert,   H.   S. 

Temple,   W. 

Thisges,    A.    J. 

Tilley,    B.    M. 

Trine,  C. 

Turnage,    W.    Z. 

Walton,    C.    E. 

Weber,   H.   F. 

Weis,   T.    T. 

Weissenback,    A.    L. 

Westover,   W.   J. 

Whitmore.   S.   K. 

Wright,  H. 

Zume,   J.   C. 

Shipwrights. 

LIcGuire,    R. 

Musicians  2nd  Class. 

Alexander,  A.   R. 
Amistoso,    I. 
Clamar,   E. 


Davidson,   B.   C. 
Eahart,    C.    H. 
Fletcher,   H.    C. 
Cronenberger,  R.  P. 
Grepo,   A. 
Kline,    N.    E. 
Lishman,    C.    J. 
Lowe,    J.    E. 
Patterson,    H.    L. 
Rlcafrente,   J. 
Tolentino,    R. 
Trias,    M.    B. 

Buglers. 
Bonhard,    W.    F. 
Harwood,  J.  C. 

Hospital  Apprentices. 

Dean,   C.   M. 
Johnson,    A.    J. 

Ship's  Cooks  4th  Class. 

Conn,   H.   W. 
Ireland,    H.    V. 
Maxon.   V.   D. 
Port,   J.   H.,   Jr. 
Ray,   J.  E. 
Walker,   B. 
Watson.   R. 


Coal  Passers. 


H. 


Jr. 


Allen    B. 
Allensworth,    G 
Bacon,   A.   W. 
Baker,   G.   F. 
Bannan,  J.  A. 
Bean,   C.   N. 
Bechtel,   R.  M., 
Beyerle,    P.    W. 
Bigoness,  W. 
Bigos,   C. 
Borgeson,   A.   C. 
Boyer,    L.    L. 
Bradshaw,    W.    R. 
Brock,    C.    E. 
Chalfant,   C.   L. 
Clifford,    H.    W. 
Connor,    C.    E. 
Cure,   H. 

Davenport,    W.   E. 
DeBruler,    G.    M. 
Degraw,  P.  C. 
Dempsey,   J. 
Docken,    T.    M. 
Doty,    N.    B. 
Doubek,    J. 


AND  EXPERIENCES  IN  NICARAGUA 


105 


Doxsen,   H.    L. 
Eberhardt,   G.   W. 
Elliott,   W.   F. 
Ennis,    C.    T. 
Fagan,    M.    J. 
Flanag-an,   J.  M. 
Frey,   C.   C. 
Friedman,  S. 
Friend,    H. 
Germain,   A.   A. 
Gessner,   J. 
Gujgery,    E.    L. 
Graham,  R.  H. 
Hay,   W.   F. 
Hilliar,   A.   E. 
Hog-an,    J.    T. 
Hooper,   M.   J. 
Jolly,   E.   P. 
Kamm,   R. 
Kekacs,    S.   J. 
Kelly,  S.  M. 
Kelly,    W. 
Klepp,   H.   C. 
Knoll,    F.    B. 
Kruszka,    F.    J. 
T^atchum,  C.  H. 
T^ent,   M.   B. 
Lewis,   R.   E. 
Lowe,    T.    L. 
McFarlane,  F.  H. 
Maddison,  J.  U. 
Mang-um,    A.    Z. 
Meyers,   J. 
Minner,    G. 
Minnon,   V.   J. 
Moore,    J.    E. 
Moore,    W.    F. 
Moore,   T.   F. 
Murphy,    P. 
MoDanlel,  H.  F. 
McGoug-h,    T.    J. 
McMenomay,  E. 
McNamara,  T.  E. 
Nelson,    R. 
Nicholson,   B. 
Nixon,    T.    H. 
Nolette,   J.  A. 
Norton,    L.    E. 
O'Brien,    E.    F. 
O'Connell,  J.  J. 
O'Donog-hoe,  T.  H. 
Phelan,  T. 
Plummer,   C.   C. 
Posser,   C. 


Puklavage,  "W.  A. 
Quinn,   W.   J. 
Rose,  C.  W. 
Rudel,   E. 
Sabacky,   J. 
Schaefer,  J.  E. 
Schell,  E.   F. 
Schmidth,   J.  J. 
Schneider,  F.  A. 
Schuergers,  P.  J. 
Schwingen,   E. 
Seaman,  E. 
Shalloross,    J.    C. 
Shores,   L.   J. 
Smith,  H.   J. 
Smith.   H.    V. 
Sollers,    H.    R. 
Stader.    J. 
Thompson,  W.   V. 
Tolles,   H.   H. 
Vaughn,    W. 
Ward,     J.     E. 
Wardle,    J.    E. 
Weaver.   O. 
Whleeher,   J.   E. 
Winters,    A. 
Withers,    A. 
Woodard,   W. 

Stewards  to  Commander-in-Chief. 
Kow,    Li. 

Cooks  to  Commander-in-Chief. 
Weng,  W.  W. 

Cabin  Stewards. 
Mihamoto,    S. 

Cabin  Cooks. 
Oka,   T. 

Wardroom  Stewards. 
Kunimatz,   M. 
Ozoma,   E. 


Wardroom  Cooks. 


Chung  Ah 
Pow,   K. 


Steerage  Stewards. 

White,  G.  L. 

Steerage  Cooks. 
Gana,   J. 

Warrant  Officers  Stewards. 
Foo    Ah 
Over,   J.  A. 

Mess  Attendants  1st  Class. 
Blanco,   S. 
Hong    Derk 


106 


NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 


Mess  Attendants  2nd  Class. 

Angelo,  A. 
Angquico,    A. 
Banting,   A. 
Billi,   P. 
Darvin,    V. 
Guerrero,   J. 
Irineo,  R. 
Jardin,   P. 
Jayme,   A. 
Jhrusalem,   J, 
Morato,   J. 
Ricohermoso,    S. 
Ruiz,   Q. 
Salas,    T. 
Toy  Num 

Mess  Attendants  3rd  Class* 

Aballa,  P. 
Ala,   P. 
Aledia,    P. 
Baza,  M. 
Beliiz,   G. 
Cainap,   E. 
Cameros,    U. 
Cespedes,   D. 
Chin,   P.   J. 
Fran,   T. 

Francisco,    T.    E. 
Geporta,  H. 
Melgar,  M. 
Navarro,    M. 
Panuncio,   P. 
Parilla,   G. 
Picardal,   V. 
Reyes,   G. 
Rubio,    M.    M. 
Sevilla,   C.   M. 

First  Sergeants. 

Dickerson,   A. 
Whalen,   J.   P. 

Sergeants. 

Albright,   G. 
Lindenberger,  C.  M. 
Marovitz,   M. 
Warrell,   G. 
Goss,   P.   H. 
Huefe,  E.  G. 


Button,  J.  H. 
Carkenord,   R.  C. 
Clement,    O. 
Hayes,  J.   L. 
Hayes,   J.    P. 
Hill,   F.  A. 
Irwin,   B. 
Lawrenson,  H.   L 
Wayt,   L.   G. 
Wallace,   J.   D. 
York,  R.  A. 
Johns,   D.  H. 


Corporals. 


Fonger,   O.    S. 

Falls,  G.  W. 

Abby.   W.    T. 
Anderson,  B. 


Drummer. 

Trumpeter. 

Privates, 


Austin,   C.   B. 
Bell,  G.  H. 
Benchea,  G. 
Black,  E. 
Brofft,    A.    R. 
Button,   D. 
Chirip,  P. 
Clayton,   G.   M. 
Campbell,  J.  E. 
Cunningham,  J.  M. 
Day,   W.   H. 
Dirksen,   R.   F. 
Drake,   F.   E. 
Edwards,   H. 
Evans,    T. 
Feinweb,    M. 
Flowers,    T.   A. 
Froelich,  W.  G. 
Fuller,   C.  H. 
Garner,  V.  I. 
Gehrke,   G. 
Gilder,   J. 
Grey,    J.    F. 
Grimm,   E.   F. 
Grogan,   R.    R. 
Hall,   F.   E. 
Hardcastle,    W. 
Harris,   F.   L. 
Henschell,   G.   S. 
Howard,  F.  E. 
Hudson,   H. 
Johnson,    R.   L. 
Ketchum,    J.    O. 
Langan,   L. 
Leiser,   L.   F. 
Lewis,  A.  O. 
Lewis,   H.  A. 
Lockwood,  H.  M. 
Long,  E.   R. 
Lutters,   J. 
MacAlpine,   M.    D. 
Mahoney,    R.    J. 
Matthews,   E.   J. 
Mattson,    E.    M. 
Meibos,  L. 
Menge,   S.   P. 
Morris,   M.   F. 
Mullen,  J. 
Noddin,  C.   C. 
Peters,    F.   V. 
Peterson,   W.   J. 
Rice,   H.    R. 
Reno,  F. 
Rogers,   A.   P. 
Root,   J.   M. 
Rose,   R.   R. 
Rountree,   C.   A. 
Russell,   R.   A. 
Schramm,   R.   R. 
Stern,    R.    P. 
Thomas,   E.   W. 
Tolner,   B.   D. 
Tomb,   W.   R. 
Tucker,    J.   A. 
Voelk,   F.   D. 
Warner,   L.   R. 
Weanus,  M.  J. 
Willey,   T. 
Wilson,    D.    S. 
Yeakle,  W.  A. 


NOTE 

As  the  actual  making  of  this  book  had  not  been  finished  when 
we  were  so  suddenly  ordered  to  Nicaragua,  it  is  considered  desir- 
able to  place  between  its  covers  a  brief  description  of  our  life  on 
shore  in  a  country  in  the  throes  of  civil  war.  W.  E.  R. 

Corinto,   Nicaragua,   November   10,    1912,   U.    S.    S.   California. 


EXPERIENCES  IN  NICARAGUA 


The  California  arrived  in  San  Diego  harbor  on  August  19th, 
the  usual  liberty  was  granted  the  crew,  and  a  number  of  the  officers 
and  men  had  been  granted  leave  of  absence. 

At  about  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  August  21st,  the 
Commander-in-Chief  received  a  telegram  from  Washington  which 
started  everyone  moving  at  a  lively  pace.  Officers  were  sent  ashore 
to  notify  the  men  on  liberty  to  return  at  once,  a  baseball  gam.o  in 
progress  between  the  teams  of  the  California  and  the  Iris  was 
stopped — with  the  Iris  well  ahead, — stores  that  had  been  ordered 
were  either  hurried  on  board  or  left  behind,  and  preparations  of 
all  kinds  were  going  on  in  order  that  the  ship  might  sail  at  the 
earliest  possible   moment. 

At  5  p.  m.,  we  went  outside  and  anchored  off  Coronado,  and 
at  10  p.  m.  we  were  off  on  the  long  run  to  Nicaragua,  which  coun- 
try was  again  in  the  turmoil  of  civil  conflict. 

As  the  fighting  between  the  government  forces  and  the  rebels 
had  assumed  alarming  proportions,  our  minister  to  Nicaragua  had 
asked  that  a  force  be  sent  there  large  enough  to  protect  the  lives 
of  American  and  other  foreigners,  and  to  prevent  the  loot  and 
pillage  of  their  propety. 

The  Admiral's  orders  directed  him  to  be  prepared  to  so  dis- 
pose the  forces  under  his  command  on  arrival  at  Corinto,  the  prin- 
cipal port  in  Western  Nicaragua,  as  best  to  serve  the  purpose  out- 
lined above. 

We  anchored  off  Corinto  at  one  o'clock  on  the  afternoon  of 
August  2  8th  and  the  Commanding  Officers  of  the  Annapolis  and 
Denver  reported  on  board  to  inform  the  Commander-in-chief  of 
existing  conditions  and  to  receive  orders  as  to  the  disposal  of  the 
forces  under  their  command. 

After  consultation,  it  was  decided  to  at  once  land  as  large  a 
force  as  possible,  and  orders  were  immediately  issued  to  that  effect. 
At  2:45   the  California's  landing  force  began  to  load  their  equip- 


2a         NINE  MONTHvS  ON  A  CRUISE 

ment  on  the  Annapolis  and  a  lighter  which  she  had  in  tow. 

At   5:30    the   Commander-in-Chief   shifted   his   flag   to   the   An- 
napolis, taking  with  him  the  following  members  of  his  staff: 
Major  C.   S.   Hill,  U.   S.   M.   C,   Fleet  Marine  Officer,  as  Aid  to  the 

Commander,   Expeditionary   Force, 
Lieutenant    Commander    W.    D.    Leahy,    U.    S,    N.,    Fleet    Ordnance 

Officer, 
Surgeon  C.  M.  DeValin,  U.  S.  N.,  Fleet  Surgeon, 
Lieutenant  R.  L.  Ghormley,  U.  S.  N.,  Flag  Lieutenant  and,  later, 
Lieutenant  (j.  g.)   C.  G.  Davy,  Flag  Secretary. 

At  6  p.  m.  the  California's  force  had  been  landed,  and,  with 
the  force  from  the  Annapolis  and  Denver,  was  entrained  and  left 
Corinto  at  4:30  a.  m.  on  the  29th  to  take  temporary  positions.  At 
this  time  the  force  landed  from  the  California  consisted  of  17 
officers,  274  bluejackets  and  6  5  marines.  They  took  with  them 
besides  the  regular  equipment  of  rifles  and  revolvers,  4  Colt  guns 
and  one  three-inch  field  piece. 

At  10  a.  m.  on  the  24th,  the  California  was  dispatched  to  Pan- 
ama to  bring  from  that  place  to  Corinto  the  First  Provisional  Regi- 
ment of  Marines,  which  had  been  gathered  together  on  the  east 
coast,  send  down  on  the  Prairie  and  across  the  Isthmus  of  Panama, 
and  this  regiment,  with  Major  Butler's  battalion  of  Marines  from 
Panama  and  the  companies  landed  from  the  ships,  formed  the 
marine  expeditionary   force. 

Meanwhile,  the  California's  marines  were  stationed  at  Posel- 
tega  and  the  bluejackets  encamped  near  Leon.  Patrols  and  guards 
were  established  at  close  intervals  along  the  line  of  railroad  which 
it  was  necessary  that  we  should  control  and  operate  in  order  that 
our  forces  might  be  uninterruptedly  supplied  with  food,  and  also 
to  prevent  its  destruction  by  either  of  the  opposing  forces  in  the 
field. 

Within  our  ranks  were  found  men  who  ran  the  engines,  acted 
as  trainmen,  section  gangs,  repair  gangs,  linemen,  and,  in  fact, 
took  complete  charge  of  the  maintenance  and  operation  of  this 
railroad.  Much  work  was  immediately  necessary  to  place  the 
tracks  and  rolling  stock  in  serviceable  condition. 

The  damage  already  done  by  the  rebels  to  bridges  and  equip- 
ment was  first  hastily,  and  then  in  a  more  thorough  manner,  .re- 
paired, and  trains  were  kept  running  at  fairly  regular  intervals 
while  this  work  was  being  done. 

On  September  1st  the  collier  Prometheus  and  the  supply  ship 
Glacier  arrived.  On  board  the  Glacier  was  Commander  T.  A. 
Traut,  U.  S.  N.,  who  had  been  ordered  to  relieve  Lieutenant  Com- 


EXPERIENCES  IN  NICARAGUA  3a 

mander  W.  McDowell  as  executive  officer  of  the  California,  several 
officers  and  a  number  of  men  who  had  been  left  ashore  on  leave. 

When  the  California  returned  with  the  Marines,  on  September 
4th,  the  railroad  was  in  good  condition  to  carry  them  to  their  posts. 
All  hands  worked  until  three  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  5th 
to  get  the  men  and  equipment  landed.  One  battalion,  under  com- 
mand of  Colonel  J.  H.  Pendleton,  U.  S,  M.  C,  was  landed  immedi 
ately  on  arrival,  entrained  and,  at  3  p.  m.  on  the  5th  started  for 
Managua,  though  they  had  to  wait  near  the  bridge  beyond  Leon 
until  joined  by  the  rest  of  the  regiment. 

The  railroad  runs  through  the  outskirts  of  Leon,  the  largest  city 
in  Nicaragua,  with  a  population  of  about  40,000.  It  was  necessary 
to  strongly  guard  the  railroad  property  at  this  point  because  the 
Leonese  were  very  bitter  against  what  they  regarded  as  an  unwar- 
ranted intrusion  on  our  part. 

They  did  not,  at  this  time,  resist  our  taking  control  of  the  rail- 
road property  in  that  vicinity. 

At  9  a.  m.  on  the  5th,  the  California  was  sent  to  San  Juan  del 
Sur  to  relieve  the  Denver  in  guarding  the  interests  of  foreigners 
in  that  port,  and  keeping  cable  communication  open.  A  small  force 
was  kept  on  shore  here  at  all  times. 

The  railroad  was  now  under  our  control  and  operation  between 
Corinto  and   Managua  the  capital  of  Nicaragua. 

No  armed  forces  of  either  party  were  permitted  to  use  it.  Our 
efforts  were  at  all  times  directed,  during  our  stay  in  Nicaragua,  to- 
ward the  carrying  out  of  our  orders  to  protect  American  and  other 
foreign  lives  and  property — peaceably,  if  possible,  by  force  if  nec- 
essary, so  we  were  very  careful  not  to  do  anything  to  arouse  either 
the  Liberals  or  Federals,  though  taking  care  to  impress  upon  all 
the  reasons  why  we  were  there. 

It  is  of  course  understood  that  without  the  control  of  the 
railroad  it  would  have  been  impossible  to  accomplish  our  purpose. 

Because  of  the  poor  condition  of  the  railroad  and  its  equip- 
ment, minor  accidents  were  of  frequent  occurrence,  but  only  one 
fatality  occurred,  during  our  operation  of  the  road,  when,  on  Sep- 
tember 8th,  Jose  Morata,  a  Filipino  mess  attendant,  fell  from  a 
train  which  was  being  switched,  was  run  over  and  his  legs  cut  off 
at  the  thighs.  The  unfortunate  boy  died  almost  immediately,  from 
the  shock. 

Until  September  18th  our  time  was  occupied  in  perfecting  our 
organization  to  handle  any  situation  that  might  arise.  Many  com- 
plaints made  by  foreigners  against  one  party  or  the  other  were 
looked  into  and  settled — the  complaint  most  frequently  heard  be- 
ing that  the  rebels  would  endeavor  to  forcibly  "tax"  them  financial- 


4a NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

ly  or  otherwise  for  aid  for  their  cause. 

Battles,  skirmishes,  and  minor  encounters  between  the  Fed- 
erals and  Liberals  were  of  daily  occurrence.  Many  of  them  were 
plainly  to  be  seen  from  the  passing  trains,  though  the  combatants 
usually  kept  well  away  from  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  railroad. 

Important  work  was  going  quietly  forward  in  the  sanitation 
of  the  camps  and  towns,  under  the  direction  of  our  Medical  Of- 
ficers and  the  Hospital  Corps.  Due  to  their  efficient  precautions, 
tropical  ailments  were  kept  well  under  control,  and  the  conditions 
,  in  all  towns  under  our  supervision  were  greatly  improved.  At  no 
time  was  there  any  epidemic;  in  fact  there  was  not  a  single  death 
occasioned  by  disease. 

The  populace  of  Masaya  and  Granada,  two  important  towns 
beyond  the  capital,  reached  by  the  railroad,  was  threatened  by 
famine  and  various  disorders,  and  it  became  more  necessary  than 
ever  to  take  charge  of  and  operate  the  railroad  to  its  end  just  be- 
yond Granada,  thus  permitting  the  Red  Cross  supplies  which  were 
available  for  distribution  to  those  people  to  be  carried  to  them. 
It  was  also  considered  most  desirable  to  have  under  our  control 
the  engines  and  cars  known  to  be  in  those  towns,  so  that  we  might 
forward  the  accumulation  of  freight  piled  up  in  the  warehouses 
at  Corinto,  which  was  being  increased  by  part  of  the  cargo  of  every 
steamer  which  arrived;  and  also  to  carry  out  in  entirety  the  plan 
of   keeping   communication   open. 

That  he  might  be  close  to  the  scene  of  possible  future  opera- 
tions the  Commander-in-Chief,  accompanied  by  his  staff,  on  Sep- 
temper  17th  departed,  by  train,  for  Managua  where  he  established 
temporary  headquarters  in  the  United  States  Legation  which  were 
placed  at  his  disposal  by  the  American  Minister.  Upon  arriving 
in  the  capital  the  Admiral  found  that  Colonel  Pendleton  and  Major 
Butler,  who  had  been  directed  to  proceed  with  his  battalion  of 
Panama  Marines  to  open  up  and  hold  the  railroad  enroute  to 
Masaya  and  Granada,  were  waiting  for  him  at  Campuzano  which 
is  on  the  Managua  side  of  the  famous  Barranca  and  Coyotepe.  In 
In  order  to  reach  Masaya,  the  train  carrying  Major  Butler  and  his 
men  would  have  to  pass  through  a  cut  between  these  hills — the 
Barranca  and  Coyotepe — and  these  points  were  in  the  possession 
of  the  rebel  General  Zeledon  who  had  strongly  fortified  them. 
They  were  considered  impregnable  by  the  Federals  who  had  made 
occasional  desultory  attempts  to  capture  them. 

A  message  was  sent  to  General  Zeledon  explaining  that  Major 
Butler's  train  would  have  to  pass  through  the  cut  without  moles- 
tation, and  also  indicating  why  we  wished  to  get  through.  Gen- 
erar  Zeledon  replied  that  if  Major  Butler's  train  attempted  to  pass 


EXPERIENCES  IN  NICARAGUA  5a 

it  would  be  attacked.  That  was  putting  it  squarely  up  to  us,  so  the 
Commander-in-Chief  directed  that  Major  Butler  delay  his  start  a 
day,  moved  our  combined  forces  up  to  a  favorable  position  for  at- 
tack, and  then  notified  General  Zeledon  that,  if  a  guarantee  of 
absolute  non-molestation  on  the  part  of  the  rebels  were  not  re- 
ceived by  a  certain  hour,  our  forces  would  open  fire  and  drive  them 
from  their  positions.  Two  minutes  before  our  Artillery  was  to 
open  fire  the  rebel  representative  rushed  up  to  Colonel  Pendleton's 
battle  station  and  said  that  the  train  could  go  through  unhamed, 
and  that  we  could  open  up  communication  through  these  positions 
and  continue  to  hold  it  open  without  hindrance  of  any  kind  from 
them.  While  the  train  was  passing  through  Masaya,  shortly  after 
dusk,  a  group  of  men  mounted  on  horseback  fired  on  it,  woujid- 
ing  four  of  our  men.  This  appeared  to  be  a  prearranged  signal  as 
unseen  parties,  from  the  doors  and  windows  of  the  buildings  in 
that  vicinity,  began  shedding  bullets  in  our  direction.  Our  forces 
returned  the  fire  in  the  dark,  and  it  may  "be  safely  said  that  a  great 
number  of  those  in  the  treacherous  ambuscade  did  not  live  to  tell 
the  story  of  this  fight  in  the  dark.  No  further  harm  was  done  our 
force,  and  the  train  proceeded  on  its  way.  General  Zeledon  was  of 
course  considered  responsible  for  this  act,  but,  as  was  to  be  ex- 
pected, he  denied  all  knowledge  of  it. 

Shortly  after  the  arrival  of  our  forces  at  Granada,  the  rebel  Gen- 
eral Mena  turned  over  all  railroad,  telephone  and  telegraph  prop- 
erty to  our  forces  and,  late,  surrendered  his  positions  and  all  his 
forces  and  arms. 

With  the  situation  under  control  the  Red  Cross  supplies  were 
brought  in  and  distributed  to  the  starving  people  of  Granada  and 
Masaya,  and  our  own  provisions  were  used  to  succor  the  distressed. 

Mena's  surrender  to  Admiral  Southerland  left  Zeledon,  in  his 
fortifications,  and  the  Leonese  at  Leon,  as  the  only  remaining  dis- 
turbing elements  for  the  Federals  to  overcome,  and  the  only  two 
menacing  positions  along  the  railroad. 

The  Commander-in-Chief  demanded  that  Zeledon  evacuate  his 
position,  in  which  he  was  a  constant  menace  to  the  safe  operation 
of  the  railroad.  General  Zeledon  refused  to  comply  with  this  de- 
mand and  thus,  again,  placed  us  in  an  untenable  position.  After 
further  consideration  the  Admiral  informed  General  Zeledon  that 
if  he  had  not  evacuated  his  position  by  8  a.  m.  on  October  3rd  our 
forces  must  attack  his  position.  Zeledon  again  refused,  stating  that 
he  would  fight. 

Promptly  at  8  a.  m.  on  October  3rd,  Major  Butler  opened  fire 
with  his  field  guns.  At  5  a.  m.  on  the  morning  of  the  4th  the  rest 
of  our  forces  had  reached  their  positions  for  attack,  and  at  5:18 


6a  NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 

our  combined  forces  assaulted  Coyotepe,  rushing  up  the  hill  in  the 
face  of  a  fierce  fire  from  the  rebels. 

This  baptism  of  fire,  which  struck  down  here  and  there  a  com- 
rade, filled  the  air  with  its  murderous  voice  of  hate  and  defiance, 
and  created  within  our  charging  ranks  a  wild  desire  to  get  to  the 
top  of  the  hill  and  put  a  stop  to  senseless  slaughter.  The  engage- 
ment lasted  thirty-seven  minutes  and  left  us  in  possession  of  Zele- 
don's  i)osition  with  none  to  dispute  our  right  to  be  there.  Zeledon 
had,  the  day  before  this  action,  transferred  his  headquarters  to 
Masaya.  When  on  the  4th  our  forces  attacked  his  position,  he 
endeavored  to  escape  toward  the  Costa  Rican  boundary,  but  was, 
with  a  number  of  his  generals,  pursued  and  all  the  party  captured, 
- — Zeledon  dying  of  his  wounds  within  an  hour  after  his  capture. 

Though  we  were  victorious,  there  was  no  joy  to  be  found  in 
our  victory  for  our  Flag  planted  on  top  of  Coyotepe  looked  down 
upon  many  slain  and  wounded,  and  some  of  our  comrades  were 
among  them.     We  lost  four  men: 

Private  Ralp  Bobbett,  Co.   "B",lst  Battalion,  U.   S.   M.  C, 
Private  Charlie  H.  Durham,  Co.  "C",  1st  Battalion,  U.  S.  M.  C, 
Private  Clarence  H.  McGill,  Co.  "C",  1st  Battalion,  U.  S.  M.  C, 
Private  Harry  Pollard,  Co.   "C",   1st  Battalion,   U.   S.   M.   C, 
killed,  and  the  following  were  wounded: 

Second  Lieutenant  G.  W.  Martin,  Co.  "C",  1st  Battalion,  U.  S. 
M.    C, 

Sergeant  A.  P.  Sherburne,  Co.   "C",  1st  Battalion,  U.  S.  M.  C, 
Private  William   Harvey,   Co.    "C",   1st   Battalion,  U.   S.   M.   C, 
Private  Alfred  Lunder,  Co.  "C",  1st  Battalion,  U.  S.  M.  C, 
T.    P.    McGoorty,   ordinary   seaman,   U.    S.   Navy,    U.    S.    S.   Cali- 
fornia. 

Upon  learning  of  our  loss,  the  citizens  of  Granada  informed 
the  Commander-in-Chief  that  they  would  esteem  it  an  honor  if 
he  would  permit  the  remains  of  our  dead  to  be  interred  in  ground 
set  apart  by  the  city  for  that  purpose.  This  offer  was  declined 
with  sincere  thanks,  as  the  Admiral  felt  it  proper  that  our  com- 
rades should  be  laid  to  rest  in  our  own  cemetery. 

Impressive  funeral  ceremonies  were  conducted,  by  Chaplain 
Fleming  of  the  California,  at  Camp  Weitzel  which  is  situated  on  a 
hill  overlooking  the  city  of  Managua.  These  services  were  at- 
tended by  the  President  of  Nicaragua,  his  Cabinet,  other  high  of- 
ficials, many  prominent  people,  native  and  foreign,  and  by  the 
Commander-in-Chief,  staff,  and  all  our  oflficers  and  men  in  Managua. 
Immediately  after  the  services  the  dead  were  escorted  to  the 
train  by  a  full  battalion,  through  streets  lined  by  masses  of  natives 


EXPERIENCES  IN  NICARAGUA  7a 


who  had  never  before  known  that  in  any  nation,  honors  are  ren- 
dered the  dead  soldier.  On  arrival  at  the  station  the  remains  were 
entrained,  and  left  under  full  military  honors — the  caskets  strewn 
with    flowers   gathered    by    the    comrades    of    the    dead. 

An  incident  occurred  at  Chichigalpa,  another  of  our  posts,  on 
the  morning  of  the  4th  when  Lieutenant  E.  C.  Long,  U.  S.  M.  C, 
marched  his  company  up  to  the  quartel  at  that  place  in  search  of 
dynamite  bombs  rumored  to  be  in  concealment  there.  As  they  ap- 
proached the  cuartel,  a  considerable  mob  of  rebels  soldiers  and 
others  armed  with  rifles  and  machetes,  closed  in  and  fired  on  our 
men,  wholly  disregarding  the  orders  of  their  officers  to  the  con- 
trary. Their  fire  was  promptly  returned  by  our  men,  and  thirteen 
of  the  rebels  killed,  and  five  of  our  men  wounded,  as  a  result  of 
the  skirmish. 

Four   dynamite   bombs   were   discovered. 

It  now  became  necessary  to  enter  Leon  and  render  that  city, 
by  our  occupation,  a  point  no  longer  menacing  the  line  of  com- 
munication, with  which  event  the  disorders  in  the  largest  city  of 
Nicaragua  would  end.  On  Ocober  6th  our  forces  entered  the  city 
from  various  points.  This  entrance  was  forcibly  resisted  by  or- 
ganized bands  of  rebels  which  were  soon  dispersed,  but  not  until 
during  the  scattered  fighting,  three  more  of  our  comrades  and 
shipmates: 

Roy  G,  Morgan,  turret  captain  first  class,  U.  S.  S.  Colorado, 
D.   H.   Bourgeois,  ordinary  seaman,  IT.   S.  Colorado,  and 
Private   John   Bartell,    Co.    "D",    1st   Provisional   Regiment,    U. 
S.   M.   C,  were  killed,  and  three  men   were  wounded: 

Private   F.    Kittsmiller,   U.    S.    M.   C,   U.    S.    S.    Colorado, 
P.  D.  Lancer,  ordinary  seaman,  U.  S.  N.,  U  S.  S.  Colorado,  and 
Trumpeter    Louis    Baiter,    U.    S.    M.,    Co.    "G",    1st    Provisional 
Regiment 

Military  honors  were  rendered  those  who  died  in  this  engage- 
ment and  their  bodies,  with  those  of  the  men  who  were  killed  at 
Coyotepe,  were  sent  to  San  Francisco  on  the  P.  M.  S.  S.  San  Juan, 
The  engagement  at  Leon  was  the  last  in  which  we  were  forced 
to  do  any  fighting,  and  from  this  time  on  our  forces  were  engaged 
in  performing  routine  duties,  standing  by  for  any  need  that  might 
arise  for  their  services. 

The  control  of  the  railroad  was  gradually  restored  to  the 
hands  of  its  owners,  they  relieving  our  men  with  civil  employees  as 
fast  as  they  could  secure  them.  We  retained,  by  permission,  one 
man  on  each  train  to  look  after  the  safe  delivery  of  our  mail  to 
our  camps.  The  control  of  all  the  towns  held  by  us  from  Granada 
to    Corinto    was   gradually    turned    over    to    the    Federal    oflEicials — 


8a  NINE  MONTHS  ON  A  CRUISE 


under  our  military  supervision.  The  rebels,  granted  amnesty  by 
President  Diaz,  disbanded,  turned  in  their  arms,  and  returned 
to  their  ordinary  pursuits.  The  government  army  was  much  re- 
duced in  numbers,  and  the  people,  as  a  whole,  seemed  determined 
to  now  settle  down  to  promote  the  development  of  a  peaceful  pros- 
perity in  this  magnificent  country. 

A  touching  and  significant  tribute,  which  will  make  clear  to 
the  readers  as,  perhaps,  nothing  else  could  the  conditions  existing 
in   this   beautiful   land   in   time   of  civil  strife,   follows: 

(Translation) 

Granada,  Nicaragua,  October  11,  1912. 
To  Admiral  Sout'herland, 

Honorable  Sir: 

Daughters  of  this  beloved  soil  which  God  has  endowed  with 
a  prodigality  of  beauty  and  natural  riches,  we  would  feel  happy 
and  contented  if  we  had  the  tranquility  indispensable  for  the  de 
velopment  and  well-being  of  the  family;  but,  unfortunately,  civil 
conflicts  have  resulted  in  weakening  the  ties  which  in  every  civilized 
country  are  considered  sacred  and  which  maintain  the  stability  ol 
all  well-organized  society,  which  cannot  exist  without  due  respect 
for  life  and  property. 

These  conflicts  have  been  each  day  more  stubborn  and  bloody, 
the  bitterness  each  day  greater,  and  the  loss  each  time  more  irre- 
parable, bringing  about  a  division  so  deep  in  the  Nicaraguan  fam- 
ily that  the  most  perverse  elements  dominated  in  this  city  and  it 
fell  to  our  lot  to  live  in  a  state  of  horror  and  fright  in  which  the 
mother,  the  daughter,  the  wife  and  the  sister  saw  themselves  each 
moment  threatened  with  the  loss  of  all  they  held  most  dear,  of 
their  subsistence,  of  the  most  necessary  things  even  for  the  life 
of  the  children,  with  the  loss  of  their  own  honor. 

It  is  for  this,  seeing  the  prolongation  of  the  recent  conflict 
which  was  growing  fiercer  each  day,  that  we  celebrated  with  en- 
thusiasm your  arrival  on  the  shores  of  Nicaragua  as  an  omen  that 
soon  our  ills  would  cease.  Our  hopes  were  fulfilled,  inasmuch  as 
you  have  given  with  wonderful  rapidity  the  peace  and  tranquility 
that  we  so  much  longed  for. 

On  account  of  the  shortness  of  your  stay  in  this  city,  we  were 
not  able  to  express  to  you  personally  our  gratitude  and  profound 
esteem,  so  we  send  you  a  bouquet  of  flowers  from  our  gardens, 
which  in  their  perfume  carry  for  you  and  your  great  and  generous 
country  the  tenderest  feelings  of  the  women  of  Granada. 

The  judgment  and  prudence  with  which  your  worthy  subor- 
dinate  officer.   Major   S.    D.    Butler,    U.    S.    M.    C,   has   executed    his 


AND  EXPERIENCHS  IN  NICARAGUA 9a 

mission  in  this  city  gives  credit  to  the  high  efficiency  of  the  officers 
and  the  morals  and  discipline  of  the  American  forces. 

Already  we  have  enjoyed  for  these  few  days  real  peace  and 
tranquility  with  the  stay  of  the  American  forces  in  our  midst.  It 
is  for  us  to  express  the  desire  that  our  elder  sister — the  great  Re- 
public of  the  United  States — so  wise,  so  powerful,  will  bring  to  us 
permanently  the  benefits  which  all  her  sons  enjoy  throughout  all 
her  vast  and  peaceful   domain. 

With  assurances  of  the  highest  and  most  distinguished  con- 
sideration, we  remain. 

Your  most  obedient  servants, 
(Subscribed  to  with  the  names  of  two  hundred  and  sixteen    (216) 

ladies  of  Granada.) 

If  our  presence  gave  to  the  women  of  Nicaragua  the  peace  of 
mind  described  above,  one  may  easily  understand  what  a  comfort 
it  must  have  been  to  the  Americans  and  other  foreigners  in  that 
country  whose  lives  and  property  we  had  been  sent  to  protect. 

During  the  last  few  quiet  days  of  our  stay,  parties  under  com- 
mand of  Captain  W.  A.  Gill,  U.  S.  Navy,  commanding  the  Colorado, 
and  Captain  A.  S.  Halstead,  U.  S.  Navy,  commanding  the  California, 
made  various  reconnaissances  on  horseback  into  the  interior  of  the 
country,  and  visited  some  of  the  large  estates  where  bananas,  coffee, 
rubber,  cattle,  etc.,  are  raised  on  a  large  scale. 

The  members  of  these  parties  gave  glowing  accounts,  on  their 
return,  of  passing  through  glorious  scenery  to  a  bounteous  hos- 
pitality extended  them  by  the  proprietors  of  the  estancias. 

On  October  24th  the  embarkation  of  our  forces  commended 
with  the  withdrawal  of  the  landing  forces  of  the  Cleveland  and 
Denver,  which  vessels  sailed  for  home  on  theh  2.5th  and  26th,  re- 
spectively. 

On  November  12th  the  last  of  our  forces  had  been  returned 
to  our  ships,  leaving  only  the  Marines  of  the  Provisional  Regiment 
to  be  carried  back  later  by  the  Buffalo,  except  the  detachment  to 
remain  at  Managua  as  a  guard  to  the  United  States  Legation  until 
the  tranquility  of  the  country  is  absolutely  assured. 

On  November  13th,  the  Commander-in-Chief  entertained  the 
President  of  Nicaragua  and  his  Cabinet  at  a  farewell  luncheon  on 
board  the  Flagship  California,  and  at  4:15  p.  m.  on  November  14th, 
the  fleet,  consisting  of  the  California,  Colorado  and  Maryland, 
sailed  for  San  Diego  and  home. 

We  now  look  forward  again  to  target  practice — navy  yard — 
pnd  furloughs. 

May   our  dreams  at  last  come   true, 
THE    END. 


YC   ;0205 


iviS14204 


:t\,'<imn.      ^i 


